Anyone have experience with ORI STX struts?

Rescue6

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Anyone have experience with ORI stx struts. It’s one of my next purchases. I’m thinking I’ll do 14” up front and 14” or 16” in the rear. I’m leaning towards the ORI’s over a standard coilover because they seem to me to be a bit more effective as far as being an easy set up. They are light weight. And I should be able to get them set up easy when I do the front stretch I’m going to do. I won’t have to buy a bunch of different springs to play with. They can be set to a lower ride height. And they didn’t seem to unload or push off as bad as coil overs do. at least in the one vehicle I’ve ridden in with them so far. I do not do high speed desert stuff. I’ll probably get the remote res. Version more for the cooling and softer rate anyway however.
anyone know of any big cons to them. The only one I canthink of is if you blow the seals on one it will go flat on you like go to full stuff so it’s undriveable. A buddy that has them just carries a fox Air 2.0 collapsed with him since they are cheap in comparison so he could throw that in and air it with onboard air to get him off the trail or home in a pinch. Any other cons I should think of. Thanks.
’ll ad info to my original post. I know it will take fully custom hoops or mounts. They will be used with a Genright 4 link rear suspension that is currently 5” stretched. I may replace the tank with a fuel cell and back half it and stretch it out even more. The front will be stretched out 3-4” so all new steering, trackbar mounts etc will be done along with a 3 link. It’s going to 1 ton full width axles at this times as well.
 
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i know to fit a 14" ORI will take a tall tower or extended hoops. they top out at near the same height as the support bars under the hood.

i think they are something that would need rebuilt every couple/few yrs to ensure a long life.
and i'd think 14" is gonna be tough to get clearance for in the rear...so be ready for some work.

TJ axles are narrow and are not gonna give you much room, so you'll be frenching the rear frame and avoid hoops or towers that are gonna lean out.

i'm not sure i'd try and that long of a strut on short arms.......there's a lot of movement in the travel arc. and the strut will require room to move front to back in the mounting frame.
 
i know to fit a 14" ORI will take a tall tower or extended hoops. they top out at near the same height as the support bars under the hood.

i think they are something that would need rebuilt every couple/few yrs to ensure a long life.
and i'd think 14" is gonna be tough to get clearance for in the rear...so be ready for some work.

TJ axles are narrow and are not gonna give you much room, so you'll be frenching the rear frame and avoid hoops or towers that are gonna lean out.

i'm not sure i'd try and that long of a strut on short arms.......there's a lot of movement in the travel arc. and the strut will require room to move front to back in the mounting frame.
I’ll ad info to my original post. I know it will take fully custom hoops or mounts. They will be used with a Genright 4 link rear suspension that is currently 5” stretched. I may replace the tank with a fuel cell and back half it and stretch it out even more. The front will be stretched out 3-4” so all new steering, trackbar mounts etc will be done along with a 3 link. It’s going to 1 ton full width axles at this times as well.
 
I've read that ORIs are temperature sensitive. That the ride height will rise and fall as the day changes.
 
I've read that ORIs are temperature sensitive. That the ride height will rise and fall as the day changes.
That’s interesting. I’ll look into that. I had not heard that one although I’m not sure how bad that could be really I can’t see it being multiple inches change. But maybe it is.
 
That’s interesting. I’ll look into that. I had not heard that one although I’m not sure how bad that could be really I can’t see it being multiple inches change. But maybe it is.

It doesn't take much to throw off the toe and the track bar(s). Then I have to wonder about the valving being dialed in for a certain ride height that will then change on you as TThe day warms and the struts heat up with use.
 
i've not heard anything about fading due to ambient temps, do you know where you saw this?
i'd like to be prepared for anything that could occur. or maybe that was the 1st version, they have been changed.

the strut is nitrogen charged, for that very reason. same as a lot of shocks. i've heard you can run CO2 in them as well as any inert gas. but nitrogen is less effected by minor temp differences is why so many racers use it in their CO's and tires.
either way, i expect to carry a small tank and be able to make field adjustments if i feel it's warranted.

sounds like you have a plan there Rescue......the only con i know of yet is the cost. i bought 2 NIB off a friend in financial trouble, and would like to complete the build with 2 more but they are not cheap.
 
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I have a couple friends that run them, they both like them a lot now. One of the people I know didn’t like them at all for a while until he got them tuned, now LOVES them. The other friend had his tuned right away and has always liked them. I can say that when I follow them their jeeps are so quiet with no spring squeak and they look like they ride real nice. There doesn't seem to be much of a difference in performance compared to a coilover in street driving, trail running or rock crawling from what I’ve seen, until it comes to high speed off-roading, and dunes then the coilover really shines. I’d like to do a set on my rig
 
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the rock bouncers that use these things slam the snot out of them and they ride like cushions. it's gonna be in the tuning just as a CO.
and ORI even admits if your into speed and need fast suspension they are not really for you.

really about the same cost as a large top end CO.

now i don't expect to drive my jeep this way, but look at the action of the struts. and what they are handling.