Anything I'm missing for SYE / clutch / other work?

Nordic

Nordic

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 21, 2019
Messages
138
Location
Monument, CO
Hello All,
Getting back home soon, and wanting to do a SYE to help with some driveline vibrations I've been having. Anyhow, did some research, and with the fact that I figured I might as well do some other items while I have the T-Case off, the plan snowballed into the list below:

SYE
• Teraflex Megashort SYE & Adam's DS Kit
• RTV

REAR SUSPENSION
• CE-9103SA - Savvy JJs Aluminum Adjustable Rear Upper Control Arms TJ/LJ
• CE-9106SA - Savvy JJs Aluminum Adjustable Lower Control Arms TJ/LJ
• Currie Enterprises CE-9601 Rear Lower Shock Mount Extension

CLUTCH
• LuK 05-065 Clutch Kit
• National 614093 Clutch Release Bearing Assembly?

OTHER
• Savvy Transfer Case Cable Shifter Kit for the 231

Now, have a couple of questions of about this list.
  1. Firstly, is there anything I'm missing, or any other good items to include while I'm installing everything else and have the T-Case split open?
  2. Secondly, are there any special tools I will need to buy or rent?
  3. Thirdly, I'm rather torn as to whether or not I should go with the LuK kit included throw out bearing, or the national one. One one hand, the National bearing seems to be favored, as the LuK one has a composite material, but on the other hand, the national bearing doesn't have the best reviews (3.4/5 stars on Amazon), it's rather pricey (seeing as it's just $30 shy of the Clutch kit itself), and I saw a post in which Jerry described the composite material as actually being superior
Anybody have any evidence that could sway me either way?

Thanks in advance!
 
  1. I don't think you're missing anything. Though if you have the transfer case split open, you may want to replace the chain if the miles are higher. Not necessary by any means, but might as well. Don't forget the fluid too!
  2. I haven't done it personally, so I can't answer this. I don't believe so though.
  3. I don't own a manual, but I would take Jerry's word for it that the composite material is superior LuK is a very reputable company. I don't think they would knowingly include a part that was prone to failure.
 
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Chris said:
  1. I don't think you're missing anything. Though if you have the transfer case split open, you may want to replace the chain if the miles are higher. Not necessary by any means, but might as well. Don't forget the fluid too!
  2. I haven't done it personally, so I can't answer this. I don't believe so though.
  3. I don't own a manual, but I would take Jerry's word for it that the composite material is superior LuK is a very reputable company. I don't think they would knowingly include a part that was prone to failure.
Click to expand...

Thank you, guess I'll put my mind at ease for the LuK bearing. I'll do the chain as well, seeing as the jeep has 130k miles.
 
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Anyone have experience with the Motive Gear MG10-027 chain? Can't find any reviews on their chains; only their gears. It seems like they source their products from the same factories that other big names such as Yukon, Revolution, and G2 use, so I'm thinking this could be a pretty good deal for $40 on Amazon.
 
Yep, with 130k I think it makes sense to do the transfer case chain!
 
Probably a good idea to do the Transmission mount as well, can't imagine mine is in good shape after so long.

DEA A2882 Transmission Mount​
 
Trans mount while youre in there.

Rusty frame? Rust prone area? If yes, kroil for getting bolts loose.

Anti seize for the trans skid bolts. Again, if rust prone area.

Have you looked at the upgraded wide chain from JB conversions or their Super Short SYE?

U joints in good shape? If not, do them while you have the shaft out.
 
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Fouledplugs said:
Trans mount while youre in there.

Rusty frame? Rust prone area? If yes, kroil for getting bolts loose.

Anti seize for the trans skid bolts. Again, if rust prone area.

Have you looked at the upgraded wide chain from JB conversions or their Super Short SYE?

U joints in good shape? If not, do them while you have the shaft out.
Click to expand...

I have Antiseise and the Seafoam penetrating oil, so should be good there. Reminds me that I'll need shorter bolts for the T-Case, as I have a homemade drop on it now. I did look at the JB conversions SYE, seems super stout, but I couldn't find anything negative on the Teraflex Megashort, plus it comes as a package deal with the DS from Adams so I figured I might as well go with it to save a bit of money and for the convenience. Haven't looked into the wider chain, I'll have to check that out. I was under the impression that the stock chain is usually adequate enough.
There doesn't seem to be anything wrong with the front DS, but I'll have to take a closer look at it once I'm back. I know it's not the source of my vibes, but guess it wouldn't hurt to have it rebuilt/balanced as it has 130k miles on it.

Edit: Looked at the wide chain kit, for $350 and for my application I think I'm going to have to pass on that one.
 
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Nordic said:
Also, looks like I'll need some M6x 1.0x50mm bolts for removing my harmonic balancer.
Click to expand...
Buy a tap that size too. Run that through first.

I broke off 2 bolts trying to get the ballancer off and just took a 4lb hammer and chisel to it. Non of those parts get reused anyway.
 
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