Arizona Rock Crawler

starkey480 said:
I’m just brainstorming here but maybe that would make a 12” shock fit better with short arms? For instance if you couldn’t trim enough from the lower perches to get 6” of down travel on a short arm. Like I said it depends if the control arms bind with 12” of travel or not. I haven’t cycled with the intent of finding out these answers yet. I’ll go to a savvy midarm in the front eventually if I need to. Or just run an 11” shock. But it would be neat to do a 12” shock and take full advantage of the highlines
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from a dummy's point of view. considering pretty much all of the SA sys downward movement is inward 1 might think if trying to stuff a 12" travel on SA's utilizing more up than down might be the smart way to use them.
the game changes when link mount location changes force longer links that have a less drastic inward movement as the axle droops.

axle motion is left out of every single SA LA debate and is just as important from an engineering standpoint as AS and AD. and has a lot to do with how well or easy or efficiently your rig can negotiate obstacles.
 
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someguysjeep said:
if it's down tight there is nothin left to trim.

i don't believe i could use GR's fenders because they don't sit high enough for what i cut. my old fenders are raised to the top of the headlamps and most pics show the aftermarket fenders fall just a bit short of that point. but yours appear to be up there high.

the front bolts are in the bottom of the slots, any chance they are holding the front at high spot? can't tell if those are tightened down or not.
or if the fender is really bowed, lay the fender upside down spanned between 2 horses and apply some pressure see if it'll flatten out.

TBH the hood appears to have the worst of it, cutting the hoods is the trickiest part.
i took a big cut off the hood a 1/4" short of where i thought i needed to be. then i put the hood on the rig sitting on the fenders and i lay a pencil on the fender (a #2 pencil diameter gives a nice gap). then slide the pencil down the fender marking the hood. trim and repeat until it's right.
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Sweet. I agree I think the hood is causing most of it The grill mounting points are up as high as they can go without touching the front of the hood. Good idea on the saw horses. I’ll try that today. First I want to lay my stock hood on the fenders and just see how it lays with a dead straight cut. Then I’ll do what you said and cut it 1/4” low and trim as needed. To be honest I was considering cutting and using my stock hood anyways because this primed one still needs a lot of prep before it could be painted
 
someguysjeep said:
from a dummy's point of view. considering pretty much all of the SA sys downward movement is inward 1 might think if trying to stuff a 12" travel on SA's utilizing more up than down might be the smart way to use them.
the game changes when link mount location changes force longer links that have a less drastic inward movement as the axle droops.

axle motion is left out of every single SA LA debate and is just as important from an engineering standpoint as AS and AD. and has a lot to do with how well or easy or efficiently your rig can negotiate obstacles.
Click to expand...
That’s exactly what I was originally thinking as well. I bet they would fit better with more up than down. I think I may as well wait and save up for a front midarm and do it right though.
 
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someguysjeep said:
from a dummy's point of view. considering pretty much all of the SA sys downward movement is inward 1 might think if trying to stuff a 12" travel on SA's utilizing more up than down might be the smart way to use them.
the game changes when link mount location changes force longer links that have a less drastic inward movement as the axle droops.

axle motion is left out of every single SA LA debate and is just as important from an engineering standpoint as AS and AD. and has a lot to do with how well or easy or efficiently your rig can negotiate obstacles.
Click to expand...
Jacking from short arms is a different concern from physically fitting the shocks. We recently added a Savvy mid arm to an existing rear outboard with 12s. Nothing meaningful about the shocks changed.
 
Good news guys! My stock hood lays almost perfectly flat on the fender. I think we can make this look good!
15FFE117-D040-497B-AAB0-E30BA7BA0FD7.jpeg
 
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had i been a better body worker, i'da loved to keep an extra 1/2" of meat and roll it in giving the hood some structure back along that edge. but IDK how to do it.
 
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I love the silver/aluminum with the chili pepper red. What are you planning there? Keep or body match?
 
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jjvw said:
Jacking from short arms is a different concern from physically fitting the shocks. We recently added a Savvy mid arm to an existing rear outboard with 12s. Nothing meaningful about the shocks changed.
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i cannot disagree, but would consider the SA jacking reason to be concerned where to physically mount them. and try to use more up than down if able.
the only thing the MA would change is axle travel control. it should not warrant a change to the shocks if they are zoned right for your set-up.

did anyone note the full droop axle location on the SA and then the MA's? i'd be interested to see the actual change in travel. and exactly how much it effects the axles forward swing at the bottom end.
 
starkey480 said:
I originally wanted to color match but the aluminum looks so freakin good with the metallic red I’m going to keep them aluminum me thinks
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looks good like that.
my concept of OE khaki metallic and black was disrupted by my favoring of the armor to stay raw. but maybe i can sneak a 3 tone since the contrast is not as extreme.
 
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someguysjeep said:
looks good like that.
my concept of OE khaki metallic and black was disrupted by my favoring of the armor to stay raw. but maybe i can sneak a 3 tone since the contrast is not as extreme.
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I did not think I would like the raw. I just need to figure out how to make all the raw savvy stuff match the raw genright stuff
 
someguysjeep said:
i cannot disagree, but would consider the SA jacking reason to be concerned where to physically mount them. and try to use more up than down if able.
the only thing the MA would change is axle travel control. it should not warrant a change to the shocks if they are zoned right for your set-up.

did anyone note the full droop axle location on the SA and then the MA's? i'd be interested to see the actual change in travel. and exactly how much it effects the axles forward swing at the bottom end.
Click to expand...
The only thing that changes is the swing of the shock within the mounts. It is fits a short arm where there is the most swing, it will fit a with longer arm. We already know we can fit easily 11s up front with short arms and a 50/50 split. Same with 12s, but it is a whole bunch more work.
 
Has anyone seen any ideas out there for making a jig for the angle grinder to make a straight cut on the hood? Maybe a block that goes under the hood so you can make a straight cut at a set height? Edit: this won’t work I don’t think the angle of the cut will be the same as the bottom of the hood unless you set the fender at the exact angle as stock.
 
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starkey480 said:
Has anyone seen any ideas out there for making a jig for the angle grinder to make a straight cut on the hood? Maybe a block that goes under the hood so you can make a straight cut at a set height? Edit: this won’t work I don’t think the angle of the cut will be the same as the bottom of the hood unless you set the fender at the exact angle as stock.
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Ask @tworley , maybe he has some hints here.
 
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