Don’t be, that skid is a POS.
I still have a stock TC skid. They all look like they are better than mine to me.
Don’t be, that skid is a POS.
Ah hell no with that crap. He's still got some fucktard to atone for and a minor shitting up of his thread is a mere pittance.I think you should take this conversation outside of this build thread. It's not fair to Garrett.
Other than the “fucktard” part I thought I was reading one of those old time letters……Ah hell no with that crap. He's still got some fucktard to atone for and a minor shitting up of his thread is a mere pittance.
Slight difference in roll center.is this not just a byproduct of upper link triangulation vs stock spread?
And here I was hoping you had replied to tell me how hard this weld is to do and get even close to nice looking.i very much prefer the changes i've made over what i had b4. i think the upper triangulation, loss of the TB and extended link length's all work together to make a more nimble machine.
the secret y'all mention, is no secret............ if your tuned into this group we been watchin months worth of dialing in the tuning in another thread. and i don't feel something that can be complimented with other tools and dialed to a preference is even an issue.
against having unequal axle shift
this is what doesn't get enough attention. this is a real issue i feel some don't even consider and it's lack of mention is evidence of that.limits how much side to side shift
penetration is the criteria, cosmetics is not critical............beside looks way better than some i see. overhead takes commitment if your even a little hesitant and don't get that bite on the arc start it'll dump on ya.And here I was hoping you had replied to tell me how hard this weld is to do and get even close to nice looking.
View attachment 326809
There are several things that need to be brought out and discussed with a lot more attention that we currently see.this is what doesn't get enough attention. this is a real issue i feel some don't even consider and it's lack of mention is evidence of that.
whole sys like you said b4 ....making that sys on that end as efficient as you can in it's motions.
The notch can't be much deeper or I have to widen the reinforcement on the inside. If I widen it more, it goes more into the tub on the inside and after a bit, that gets to be a pain in the ass to deal with using that space for cargo.penetration is the criteria, cosmetics is not critical............beside looks way better than some i see. overhead takes commitment if your even a little hesitant and don't get that bite on the arc start it'll dump on ya.
i was lookin to see if you'd cut more notch for that contact you mentioned didn't notice the weld .it's lack of goobers didn't draw my attention.
Aside from the short arm jacking that occurs, what other aspects does a front midarm fix? Is the jacking the primary reason for front midarms?There are several things that need to be brought out and discussed with a lot more attention that we currently see.
Arm angle for short arms is one very big one. For us and the undercuts we have to deal with, you don't want more droop than about what a nicely biased 11-12" shock up front will get you. The arm angle gets too steep under articulation and you run a high risk of the tire moving down lower and trying to yank the shock out of the mounts. We limit to that much droop to stop how often that can be a big problem.
That is also one advantage of a longer arm, you can get some more droop under articulation and keep things out of trouble.
I don't see nearly enough talk about rear driveshaft bind under droop, how to check it, how to work with it, and how to keep stuff out of trouble, especially with the Rubi TJ. That rear shaft is a pain in the ass to deal with. I'm sad that has to be the limiting factor on a lot of stuff or spend a crap load of money on rear driveshafts.
I really need to get a voltage monitor or some kind of stable power supply for the welder. Our voltage delivered varies throughout the day by a bunch. I'm constantly having to change the settings on the welder. It will be on what is on the hot side for horizontal 1/8" and start burning hot enough for cool 1/4" or turn cold for 1/8. I know to watch for it but by the time I catch it, I'm committed to the weld and it is hard to stop.penetration is the criteria, cosmetics is not critical............beside looks way better than some i see. overhead takes commitment if your even a little hesitant and don't get that bite on the arc start it'll dump on ya.
i was lookin to see if you'd cut more notch for that contact you mentioned didn't notice the weld .it's lack of goobers didn't draw my attention.
I don't know what jacking is.Aside from the short arm jacking that occurs, what other aspects does a front midarm fix? Is the jacking the primary reason for front midarms?
When the short arm angle gets too steep during droopI don't know what jacking is.
Alright then, do you need any more reason?When the short arm angle gets too steep during droop
nope I was just wondering if there were any other hidden onesAlright then, do you need any more reason?
That probably would have helped on that harder line we were playing with on Metal Masher, huh? Good question, I had wondered the same for the front midarm.nope I was just wondering if there were any other hidden ones
If you do it and mimic a parallel 4 link, then the caster change throughout the range of motion is consistent. Not as noticeable on typical steering but when you get into the higher performance stuff with a lot of crap stacked on the right side with close tolerances, it slows down the propensity for shit to crash into other shit.nope I was just wondering if there were any other hidden ones