Audio wattage question: Matching speaker wattage with head unit
- Thread starter Leinhit
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The main difference is efficiency. The class D amp will be more efficient which means it runs cooler.
From a practical standpoint this means the class D is more likely to hit it's rated power output for any real length of time. One of the questions to ask of any amp rated at whatever RMS is how long can it operate at that level without overheating.
Anyway, between those two I would buy the class D.
They are exactly the same as far as specs go. I would go with the GSX over the MEX given the 3yr vs 1yr warranty.
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Plus one for the Sony MEX-M100 BT.
That is what I'm running with Polk DB 462s in the front and Polk DB 525s in the rear. It is plenty loud. The volume scale goes up to 50. With the top off and 55 mph, and can clearly hear the music at a level of 30. (I also have a Kicker sub between the seats powered by a 200 watt amplifier.)
Ok , then decide based on the other features. I was just going by what was posted.
I would go for the DSX model since it has the longer warranty, and you do not need a CD player as I believe you said that a CD player is not needed. The DSX is a media only, while the MEX plays CDs. If you want to play CDs get the MEX.
Most of the other specs are the same.
Also, you must note, since there is a class D receiver built inside the head unit, my assumption is in order to max the power out you will need to run the power straight to the battery. You may want to test, at first, with the power supplied by the harness, and if you feel it's not loud enough you should power the head unit directly to the battery.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_158DSXGS80/Sony-DSX-GS80.html
This is from the operating manual. Ask questions if you do not understand.
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Yes crutchfield says to run direct wire to the battery and has a harness fot about $6
Hit up Crutchfield through their online chat, tell them you want that DSX model, and want to power it directly to your battery, so what power and ground wires should I buy, and also what fuse. You will need a 15 amp fuse, and I would recommend this kit, simple, inexpensive, and more than you need. The only other item would be the 15 amp fuse. Go for a 10 gauge wiring kit, 12 gauge is okay, and 8 gauge is overkill.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_142PA10BX/EFX-PA10BX-Wiring-Kit.html
Also don't discount Crutchfield's outlet and scratch and dent:
https://www.crutchfield.com/outlet_...ideo-Outlet-Products.html?tp=1&pg=2#&clearAll
https://www.crutchfield.com/outlet_...ideo-Outlet-Products.html?tp=1&pg=2#&clearAll
89grand
TJ Addict
I'm going to drop some actual factual knowledge here, so don't get mad, just be warned:
1. As mentioned, a speakers supposed "power handling" has nothing to do with how loud the speaker can play at any given power level.
2. What Jerry says about sensitivity is correct, but where we disagree is that no speaker will magically have noticeable higher sensitivity against any other speaker of the same size and similar design and similar frequency response. Something always has to give to get high sensitivity. That would require magic otherwise, and I don't believe in it. It would be like me claiming my TJ weighs 1000lbs less than any another one nearly the same as mine. It can't happen.
3. Almost every coaxial speaker lists unrealistic power handling, and frequency response numbers. There is no way a 5.25" speaker could handle a true 100 watts or more running full range, or even reproduce full range audio aka 20hz-20khz. I could toast one within seconds playing a 20hz sine wave at an actual 100 watts.
4. In real world use, IF a coaxial speaker really had a sensitivity of 91db, installed, in vehicle, you'd only need 10 watts, and any head unit can do that, to reach a VERY loud 101db, but it never happens, because the sensitivity ratings are a lie, at least in real use.
5. For most typical systems in a Jeep with coaxials in the dash and sports bar, an amp rated at 50w x 4 to is plenty sufficient.
6. Last, but most important, the quality and detail to your install, and tuning will play the biggest roll in how good it sounds. Failure to do those two things makes everything else a waste of time.
1. As mentioned, a speakers supposed "power handling" has nothing to do with how loud the speaker can play at any given power level.
2. What Jerry says about sensitivity is correct, but where we disagree is that no speaker will magically have noticeable higher sensitivity against any other speaker of the same size and similar design and similar frequency response. Something always has to give to get high sensitivity. That would require magic otherwise, and I don't believe in it. It would be like me claiming my TJ weighs 1000lbs less than any another one nearly the same as mine. It can't happen.
3. Almost every coaxial speaker lists unrealistic power handling, and frequency response numbers. There is no way a 5.25" speaker could handle a true 100 watts or more running full range, or even reproduce full range audio aka 20hz-20khz. I could toast one within seconds playing a 20hz sine wave at an actual 100 watts.
4. In real world use, IF a coaxial speaker really had a sensitivity of 91db, installed, in vehicle, you'd only need 10 watts, and any head unit can do that, to reach a VERY loud 101db, but it never happens, because the sensitivity ratings are a lie, at least in real use.
5. For most typical systems in a Jeep with coaxials in the dash and sports bar, an amp rated at 50w x 4 to is plenty sufficient.
6. Last, but most important, the quality and detail to your install, and tuning will play the biggest roll in how good it sounds. Failure to do those two things makes everything else a waste of time.
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Sadly true.
It's compensated for by the tendency of amp specs being wildly overstated as well. So your 100 watt amp paired with your 100 watt speakers is fine, since they both lie in opposite directions.
My favorite are the 1000+ watt subwoofer amps/drivers. Yeah, sure.
For the most part the ratings are wishful thinking and represent the extreme upper limit of what the amp/speaker could possibly handle for a brief, glorious 5 seconds or so before they burst into flames.
My Skar RP2000.1D pushes 2k at 1ohm easily. The majority of amp makers lie though.Sadly true.
It's compensated for by the tendency of amp specs being wildly overstated as well. So your 100 watt amp paired with your 100 watt speakers is fine, since they both lie in opposite directions.
My favorite are the 1000+ watt subwoofer amps/drivers. Yeah, sure.
For the most part the ratings are wishful thinking and represent the extreme upper limit of what the amp/speaker could possibly handle for a brief, glorious 5 seconds or so before they burst into flames.
What happens with a high power head unit and the OEM subwoofer if still installed? Will it overdrive that amp? Will the dash/pod speakers overpower it?
Nope! The OEM subwoofer won’t be overdriven by a high power aftermarket amp. Same goes for stock overhead or dash speakers. More power capability doesn’t hurt speakers.
The high power head unit only has 4 channels that push the additional power. The stock subwoofer will receive it's signal from the head unit/channels, the signal then goes to the stock sub amplifier which amplifies the signal and sends to the stock sub woofer.
The stock sub amplifer pushes out more juice than the high powered head unit.
+1
Quality companies adhere to true specs, cheap audio makers just lie.
For me, my amplifer is a Match M 5DSP - it pushes out 4x60 watts and 1x90 watts (180 for 2 ohms), and it cranks. My volume goes up to 35, and I have to get out of the Jeep at 31+. The music is Crystal clear at 35, but just way too powerful.
The subwoofer is dual 10" woofers that are powered directly from that amplifer, so it's plug and play for when I want to remove it, if I need the rear cargo space. This amp is tiny as well, at 1.34" x 3.35" x 4.33", and has a built in DSP that is probably the best DSP software on the market.
Good quality audio is awesome, and what people don't realize is when you sell your car you can take the audio out and reuse in a new vehicle.
100% I have moved my systems through 3 different vehicles, some slight tuning changes and amazing audio in each. That’s why I love high quality audio.
You would be short changing yourself. If it were me, I would add a higher powered, external amplifier for those speakers. With that, you will get what you paid for. When I'm looking for an amplifier, I keep my approach to this question simple and go at it like this, it's better to have more power than not enough. If the power is a little too much, I can control that by simply turning down the amplifier's gain. But, if there isn't enough power, that opens the potential for problems. Whether the amplifier is inside a headunit or an external one, if there isn't enough power and the volume it turned up to the point of that amplifier beginning to clip, meaning that the amplifier is being pushed beyond it's capability. When clipping occurs, the speakers will begin to overheat. Too much of that, and the speaker's voice coils will be permanently damaged.
How do we know when it reaches the point of clipping? Without test equipment, we won't know until the volume level has been turned up to the point where the clipping becomes severe enough to be audible. This is highly probable when the top is off.
Using test equipment, I've recently seen a decent (yet pricey) double-din headunit begin clipping at half volume. That unit could have been turned up much more, while the clipping could not be heard with our ears. Each amplifier is different, so there's no standard to go by for this. Hence, my go-to approach of "Too much is better than not enough".
When it's speakers I'm looking for, I look for one that won't be under-powered by the amp that I'm using. I am a believer in sensitivity ratings, so I look for a speaker with a 90+ sensitivity rating.
I second what was mentioned about RMS (continuous) being more important than Peak. Too many speakers are sold in a similar manner as some amplifiers. They will display peak power in huge font, but dig into the smaller print in the specs and you will see a much lower wattage shown for RMS.
How do we know when it reaches the point of clipping? Without test equipment, we won't know until the volume level has been turned up to the point where the clipping becomes severe enough to be audible. This is highly probable when the top is off.
Using test equipment, I've recently seen a decent (yet pricey) double-din headunit begin clipping at half volume. That unit could have been turned up much more, while the clipping could not be heard with our ears. Each amplifier is different, so there's no standard to go by for this. Hence, my go-to approach of "Too much is better than not enough".
When it's speakers I'm looking for, I look for one that won't be under-powered by the amp that I'm using. I am a believer in sensitivity ratings, so I look for a speaker with a 90+ sensitivity rating.
I second what was mentioned about RMS (continuous) being more important than Peak. Too many speakers are sold in a similar manner as some amplifiers. They will display peak power in huge font, but dig into the smaller print in the specs and you will see a much lower wattage shown for RMS.
For me I am so glued into the Audiotec Fischer gear these days. I recently picked up some AudioFrog GB10 tweeters, and my Audiotec Fischer tweeters that I have had for 5 years are just as good.
What brand of audio is your choice?