Axle re-gear sequence in tight workspace

AustinJeepTJ

AustinJeepTJ

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TL;DR - Can I roll the Jeep out of the garage on all four wheels with two different gear ratios, flip it around, and put it back in the garage without damaging anything?

I have limited garage space. The space I have is wide enough for the Jeep but length wise, it's up against the garage door which gives me just enough space on the other end to work within my comfort range. I have space for tools, work bench, welder, press, etc.

I am just about ready to start the work on the axles. Replacing ujoints, unit bearing hubs, brakes and steering. I am also planning on regearing from 3.73 to 4.88 (or 5.13). I will not be purchasing or installing the lockers at this time.

My question is, can I rebuild the front, completely, including the regear. Back the Jeep out of the garage, flip it and back it back into the garage to work on the rear when the front axle is 5.13 and the rear is 3.73?

My thoughts are:
1. If I do this without the front driveshaft, it should be ok if there is no load. It's still the open Dana 30 diff.
2. If it is an issue, I can temporarily install the unit bearing hubs without the axles or driveshaft to flip the Jeep around.

I'd like to complete the front, minus the drive shaft, before moving to the rear but understand if it's just not possible.
 
Pull the axles. It’ll take half the time and be much easier to set up. And you’ll be more likely to do it correctly with better access

And you can drive on different gear ratios as long as you leave it in 2wd. No need to pull a driveshaft. The regeared driveshaft will spin faster, but in 2wd there is no mechanical connection. You could even drive it on the highway.

Put it in 4WD and you’re going to grenade a differential or pretzel a driveshaft, unless one driveshaft is pulled.

Also, do NOT drive on the unit bearings without a stub shaft and axle nut installed and properly torqued. The unit bearing relies on the preload of the axle but on the stub shaft to hold it together.
 
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Steel City 06 said:
Pull the axles. It’ll take half the time and be much easier to set up. And you’ll be more likely to do it correctly with better access

And you can drive on different gear ratios as long as you leave it in 2wd. No need to pull a driveshaft. The regeared driveshaft will spin faster, but in 2wd there is no mechanical connection. You could even drive it on the highway.

Put it in 4WD and you’re going to grenade a differential or pretzel a driveshaft, unless one driveshaft is pulled.

Also, do NOT drive on the unit bearings without a stub shaft and axle nut installed and properly torqued. The unit bearing relies on the preload of the axle but on the stub shaft to hold it together.
Click to expand...

Thanks. So, as long as the front axle is not under load or being driven, I should be ok to move it 60 feet or so to reposition the Jeep in the garage.
 
AustinJeepTJ said:
Thanks. So, as long as the front axle is not under load or being driven, I should be ok to move it 60 feet or so to reposition the Jeep in the garage.
Click to expand...
Yup. Leave it in 2WD and don't worry about it. Make sure your axle shafts (at least the outers) are installed and the axle nut torqued to spec before moving it. If you have an issue with the rear, you can remove the rear driveshaft and put it in 4wd to move it in front wheel drive.

I still think it will be much less frustrating to simply pull the axles. All you do is disconnect the 4 control arms, steering, trackbar, brakes, driveshaft, and breather (and locker air or electric line, if equipped). Then you can pop the axles up on some sawhorses and take care of everything with all the space you could need. Next best thing would be to put the frame on a lift and droop the axles at face height.

Here's a good guide on regearing:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup/
 
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Steel City 06 said:
Yup. Leave it in 2WD and don't worry about it. Make sure your axle shafts (at least the outers) are installed and the axle nut torqued to spec before moving it. If you have an issue with the rear, you can remove the rear driveshaft and put it in 4wd to move it in front wheel drive.

I still think it will be much less frustrating to simply pull the axles. All you do is disconnect the 4 control arms, steering, trackbar, brakes, driveshaft, and breather (and locker air or electric line, if equipped). Then you can pop the axles up on some sawhorses and take care of everything with all the space you could need. Next best thing would be to put the frame on a lift and droop the axles at face height.

Here's a good guide on regearing:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup/
Click to expand...

Ok. I am with you now. (y)
 
AustinJeepTJ said:
TL;DR - Can I roll the Jeep out of the garage on all four wheels with two different gear ratios, flip it around, and put it back in the garage without damaging anything?

I have limited garage space. The space I have is wide enough for the Jeep but length wise, it's up against the garage door which gives me just enough space on the other end to work within my comfort range. I have space for tools, work bench, welder, press, etc.

I am just about ready to start the work on the axles. Replacing ujoints, unit bearing hubs, brakes and steering. I am also planning on regearing from 3.73 to 4.88 (or 5.13). I will not be purchasing or installing the lockers at this time.

My question is, can I rebuild the front, completely, including the regear. Back the Jeep out of the garage, flip it and back it back into the garage to work on the rear when the front axle is 5.13 and the rear is 3.73?

My thoughts are:
1. If I do this without the front driveshaft, it should be ok if there is no load. It's still the open Dana 30 diff.
2. If it is an issue, I can temporarily install the unit bearing hubs without the axles or driveshaft to flip the Jeep around.

I'd like to complete the front, minus the drive shaft, before moving to the rear but understand if it's just not possible.
Click to expand...
Have you done a regear before? It's not a job I would dive into. Especially if I had to roll around on the floor to do it.
 
twistedlv said:
Have you done a regear before? It's not a job I would dive into. Especially if I had to roll around on the floor to do it.
Click to expand...

I have not, but I want to. I figure the risk is mine. Part of gaining experience is shoving your face into whatever you're interested in.

Pulling the axle is a great tip when working in a tight space. This is the first solid axle vehicle I have owned, so it didn't occur to me but makes total sense.
 
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I drove mine around for about a month with two different ratios, only in 2WD of course. When 4wd isn't engaged it won't hurt a thing.
 
AustinJeepTJ said:
I have not, but I want to. I figure the risk is mine. Part of gaining experience is shoving your face into whatever you're interested in.

Pulling the axle is a great tip when working in a tight space. This is the first solid axle vehicle I have owned, so it didn't occur to me but makes total sense.
Click to expand...

Having helped on a couple regears, working on them from above on a bench is going to be much easier. The job is miserable enough in the best of working environments.
 
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Like previously mentioned, you can drive it with mismatched gear ratios in 2wd, only. I will also recommend pulling the entire housing for the regear. Personally, after doing @tomtaylz Rubi, I swore off laying on the ground to regear again. Sucks at any age but being nearly 52, even worse.
Anyway, being that you are new at gear set up, you're likely to be pulling the pinion and carrier multiple times. Both will be much easier out of the vehicle.
 
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AndyG said:
Can I comment Chris? Oh please let me please...
Click to expand...

Here is my formula-


1. Order Parts , get the cheapest sold , the shop who fixes it can put in the good stuff.

2. Put on nice clothes , and tear into it . Don't worry about order of reassembly , it's not going to matter.

3. Just kind of look at everything and start building it back , have a big hammer handy . Beat on stuff like it owes you money .

4. Don't worry about leftover parts , they send way more than you need. They actually may even send enough to completely do it right , but don't get into all that . Close is fine . All that matters is the gear size. Watch YouTube videos as needed.

5. Pour in gear oil .

6. Now very carefully start the Jeep and slowly ease out of the garage . At this point is when you will hear noises you have never heard .

7. Drive it around , and try to ignore the loud whine you may hear , it's just breaking in. Once you are confident in the gears ,take it on your 25th wedding anniversary and get near stranded 200 miles from home .

8. Line up a shop fast . The key is before the pinion nut backs plum off.

9. Write a check when its ready and carefully break in the gears.

10. Immediately post how great the regear "you did" turned out .

This formula works , so don't let anybody get on here and tell you you can't do it man . We are practically professionals at this stuff.
 
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AndyG said:
Here is my formula-


1. Order Parts , get the cheapest sold , the shop who fixes it can put in the good stuff.

2. Put on nice clothes , and tear into it . Don't worry about order of reassembly , it's not going to matter.

3. Just kind of look at everything and start building it back , have a big hammer handy . Beat on stuff like it owes you money .

4. Don't worry about leftover parts , they send way more than you need. They actually may even send enough to completely do it right , but don't get into all that . Close is fine . All that matters is the gear size. Watch YouTube videos as needed.

5. Pour in gear oil .

6. Now very carefully start the Jeep and slowly ease out of the garage . At this point is when you will hear noises you have never heard .

7. Take it on your 25th wedding anniversary and he near stranded 200 miles from home .

8. Line up a shop fast . The key is before the pinion nut backs plum off.

9. Write a check when its ready and carefully break in the gears.

10. Immediately post how great the regear "you did" turned out .

This formula works , so don't let anybody he on here and tell you you can't do it man . We are practically professionals at this stuff.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Andy.
 
It's not that bad of a job, it just takes patience and commitment to perfection. Like others have stated, pulling the axles make it much easier to pull the diff in and out and make adjustments. Only way I'd recommend leaving the axles in is if you have a helper and a lift!
 
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I do a lot of gears and can't be paid to do them with the axles under the jeep and not on a hoist. Pulling the carrier/pinion multiple times and reinserting shim stacks sideways on the ground absolutely blows. You need 3 hands and there isn't much room for 2 people under the jeep. Be patient and ask questions if you run into any snags.
 
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