Axles offset to driver's side

It looks as though someone might have had a lift on it at some point and went back to stock springs. There are bump stop extension that shouldn't be there on a stock Jeep and there is a skid plate drop kit that shouldn't be there on a stock Jeep. How long have you had this?

I didn't want to start a new thread because I think it's a quick answer. It has a very hard time shifting into 4wd and I found that the bolt head on the linkage circled in purple hits the bolt head on the bracket at the tip of the arrow. right now it is in 2Hi position. Is that flat metal bracket that the linkage is hitting supposed to be there, or is that whole shaft actually supposed to be mounted into the bone shaped bracket? I'm looking at images of other TJs but I'm not sure who has stock linkage or not.

IMG_4654.webp
 
I didn't want to start a new thread because I think it's a quick answer. It has a very hard time shifting into 4wd and I found that the bolt head on the linkage circled in purple hits the bolt head on the bracket at the tip of the arrow. right now it is in 2Hi position. Is that flat metal bracket that the linkage is hitting supposed to be there, or is that whole shaft actually supposed to be mounted into the bone shaped bracket? I'm looking at images of other TJs but I'm not sure who has stock linkage or not.

View attachment 490613

You have a little rectangular drop bracket for the pivot at the tub. Remove that and readjust the rod and bolt that sets the linkage. Then you'll be good to go.it was probably installed for a body lift that is no longer there
 
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Guessing the body lift was removed also?
yes the skid plate spacers are gone. turned out one of the bolt holes had no threads. I put in a new nutsert from https://blackmagicbrakes.com/. I've never done it before and it was super easy with the little kit that site sells. The factory nutserts are welded to the frame btw. I chiselled it off with a hammer, screwdriver, and file.
You have a little rectangular drop bracket for the pivot at the tub. Remove that and readjust the rod and bolt that sets the linkage. Then you'll be good to go.it was probably installed for a body lift that is no longer there

Thought so, just wanted to be totally sure before i went and ripped it out. thanks!
 
That's a transfer case drop, not a body lift.

If you still have a body lift, maybe it was reduced.
I've seen those drop brackets used with 2" kits.

I don't think there is a body lift on it, just the transfer case drop and the bump extensions which are gone now too.

i removed the drop bracket. the 4x4 lever moves easier but it doesnt stay in 4hi or 4lo and the light it goes out. i can feel binding when the light is on so im pretty sure the front axle is actually engaged.
 
Consider a Saavy or Stienjager cable shifter.

Better folks than I can fix that Byzantine linkage...I got rid of mine.

Sounds like you're getting closer!

-Mac
 
I don't think there is a body lift on it, just the transfer case drop and the bump extensions which are gone now too.

i removed the drop bracket. the 4x4 lever moves easier but it doesnt stay in 4hi or 4lo and the light it goes out. i can feel binding when the light is on so im pretty sure the front axle is actually engaged.

Loosen the bolt that holds the shift rod and adjust it properly like i suggested
 
The one in yellow? I loosened that before doing any thing. i removed the drop bracket, removed the main bracket, put the pivot into the main bracket, got the bracket back on the tub, put the lever as far down as i could for the 2H position and then tightened that bolt again.
1705035086797.png
EDIT: I did it backwards per this video:

FWIW the way it shifts now is exactly how it was before removing the tcase spacers. popped out of 4x4, removed the spacers, linkage hit the bracket, removed the bracket, linkage doesn't hit anymore but pops out of 4x4 like before.

When the lever "locks" into 4Hi, the tcase is totally disengaged. i can push it forward slightly and it engages 4H. I can do the same thing with 4L, but it never fully "locks" into 4L. I checked the position of the linkage with each position of the lever and it didn't look like it was hitting anything.
Consider a Saavy or Stienjager cable shifter.

Better folks than I can fix that Byzantine linkage...I got rid of mine.

Sounds like you're getting closer!

-Mac

I learned this was a thing earlier today. sounds like a good idea but i want to be sure it's not a problem with the transfer case itself
 
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The one in yellow? I loosened that before doing any thing. i removed the drop bracket, removed the main bracket, put the pivot into the main bracket, got the bracket back on the tub, put the lever as far down as i could for the 2H position and then tightened that bolt again.
View attachment 490704
EDIT: I did it backwards per this video:

FWIW the way it shifts now is exactly how it was before removing the tcase spacers. popped out of 4x4, removed the spacers, linkage hit the bracket, removed the bracket, linkage doesn't hit anymore but pops out of 4x4 like before.

When the lever "locks" into 4Hi, the tcase is totally disengaged. i can push it forward slightly and it engages 4H. I can do the same thing with 4L, but it never fully "locks" into 4L. I checked the position of the linkage with each position of the lever and it didn't look like it was hitting anything.


I learned this was a thing earlier today. sounds like a good idea but i want to be sure it's not a problem with the transfer case itself


If you can manually put the TCase into 4H and 4L without it popping out then the TCase is fine. I’m not sure why you’re having an issue with the OEM Shifting linkage, but the Savvy Cable shifter adjusted properly will fix it
 
The one in yellow? I loosened that before doing any thing. i removed the drop bracket, removed the main bracket, put the pivot into the main bracket, got the bracket back on the tub, put the lever as far down as i could for the 2H position and then tightened that bolt again.
View attachment 490704
EDIT: I did it backwards per this video:

FWIW the way it shifts now is exactly how it was before removing the tcase spacers. popped out of 4x4, removed the spacers, linkage hit the bracket, removed the bracket, linkage doesn't hit anymore but pops out of 4x4 like before.

When the lever "locks" into 4Hi, the tcase is totally disengaged. i can push it forward slightly and it engages 4H. I can do the same thing with 4L, but it never fully "locks" into 4L. I checked the position of the linkage with each position of the lever and it didn't look like it was hitting anything.


I learned this was a thing earlier today. sounds like a good idea but i want to be sure it's not a problem with the transfer case itself


Yes the bolt that keeps the round rod in place. The detents to keep it in a selected mode are in the transfercase. If its popping out then it is either adjusted wrong or you have a tcase problem. Spending money on a cable shifter won't change that. Loosen the bolt,and put the transfercase in 2hi then make the lever match it and tighten the bolt. Fine tune as needed so the shift gate lets the tcase hit its internal detents.
 
I re-did my entire suspension new, factory replacement everything and my front axle looks about the same, as far as “offset” more one way than the other. I haven’t really ever figured it out either lol!
 
I re-did my entire suspension new, factory replacement everything and my front axle looks about the same, as far as “offset” more one way than the other. I haven’t really ever figured it out either lol!
 
I re-did my entire suspension new, factory replacement everything and my front axle looks about the same, as far as “offset” more one way than the other. I haven’t really ever figured it out either lol!

I measured the track bar and it was bent, or at least shorter than oem. I had another put on that measured the length I found on other threads and sure enough that aligned it. It's very slightly off still, but i don't think I really need to hunt that down any further. I also put oem rims on it to tuck the tires under the flares more, so its even less noticeable now.


Yes the bolt that keeps the round rod in place. The detents to keep it in a selected mode are in the transfercase. If its popping out then it is either adjusted wrong or you have a tcase problem. Spending money on a cable shifter won't change that. Loosen the bolt,and put the transfercase in 2hi then make the lever match it and tighten the bolt. Fine tune as needed so the shift gate lets the tcase hit its internal detents.

I adjusted like the video showed in my earlier post and that did help it shift much better. i have to work it into place a bit, but once it's in gear it stays
 
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I measured the track bar and it was bent, or at least shorter than oem. I had another put on that measured the length I found on other threads and sure enough that aligned it. It's very slightly off still, but i don't think I really need to hunt that down any further. I also put oem rims on it to tuck the tires under the flares more, so its even less noticeable now.




I adjusted like the video showed in my earlier post and that did help it shift much better. i have to work it into place a bit, but once it's in gear it stays

Hmmmmm….im still stumped as to why mine is doing it. Literally just noticed it today that’s why im landing here lol. Jeep has been done for months. Everything is factory replacement suspension, no lift, factory rubi wheels, idk? It’s aligned, drives absolutely great, I guess it’s just the look that’s going to drive me nuts! Even though no one else will probably ever notice lol
 
Hmmmmm….im still stumped as to why mine is doing it. Literally just noticed it today that’s why im landing here lol. Jeep has been done for months. Everything is factory replacement suspension, no lift, factory rubi wheels, idk? It’s aligned, drives absolutely great, I guess it’s just the look that’s going to drive me nuts! Even though no one else will probably ever notice lol

Did you replace the track bar?