Backyard front locker and gear ratio change

Tim Redman said:
For myself, there are aspects of it that seem pretty straightforward to me, but then there are subtle aspects of it like shimming, backlash and preload that I'm starting to get a grip on, but still seem to be just to this side of black magic.

However, I've never been scared to learn new things. I'm thinking about seeing if I can find an axle from a u-pull-it (they're hard to find around here, but surprisingly inexpensive for a 3.07 or 3.73 Dana 30/Dana 35), and re-gearing that with a new locker***. That way, when it comes time to install, it's just a matter of bolting up the new axle in place of the old, so I'm not out of my daily driver for longer than I have to be. Most importantly, it means that I can take my time, even if it's a little bit more expensive (cost of the junker axle assembly), but I'll take that cost if I can learn something new, and learn it at a pressure-free pace.

*** note: I'd prefer to find a Dana 44 with a 4.53 or 4.11 that I can just bolt in without modification or effort, but that seems to be asking way too much these days...
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That is a solid plan. You may have to get creative with crushing the crush sleeve while it is not in the vehicle, as you can see I used the lower control arm to hold my pipe wrench, but you can do it with a good air compressor and gun. That is the only thing I can think of that is the most difficult part of doing it on the bench.
 
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ac_ said:
That is a solid plan. You may have to get creative with crushing the crush sleeve while it is not in the vehicle, as you can see I used the lower control arm to hold my pipe wrench, but you can do it with a good air compressor and gun. That is the only thing I can think of that is the most difficult part of doing it on the bench.
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If you use the tool that bolts to yoke. it has a slot for a big 3/4 breaker bar to hold it study. Then use a bar type torque wrench to get the proper crush.
 
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Mitch Tucker said:
If you use the tool that bolts to yoke. it has a slot for a big 3/4 breaker bar to hold it study. Then use a bar type torque wrench to get the proper crush.
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Sure, but there is no simple torque measure to crush. It is different on all installs. Plus, if you see in my case, I used a breaker bar that is bigger than my Snap-on breaker bar torque wrench, and was still not strong enough to turn the nut. I needed to use the floor jack for leverage, as I am a delicate flower.
 
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This is mom's say eat your vegetables :) I have 2 40 inch 3/4 drive breaker bar and socket for the job and a 3 foot torque wrench. fixing to re-gear this jeep.
 
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Mitch Tucker said:
This is mom's say eat your vegetables :) I have 2 40 inch 3/4 drive breaker bar and socket for the job and a 3 foot torque wrench. fixing to re-gear this jeep.
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Are you doing it on your back? I was on my back, and got under the breaker bar, and it is really hard to get leverage, also scary as my breaker bar was bending before the nut would turn once it got tight. I was afraid the socket was going to slip, and I was going to punch the bottom of my tj at top speed. The floor jack seemed like a safer alternative for me.

Yeah, I will try that vegetable suggestion too for next time!
 
Mitch Tucker said:
Yes on the back don't have a lift. Got a new 6 point socket so maybe no slipping. how much torque did you use?
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I used the pipe wrench to hold the yoke against the lower control arm, then I tightened the nut as much as I could with the small air compressor and gun that I had, which wasn't enough to even stop the yoke from moving in and out, Then I put the breaker bar on with the socket, and got underneath the bar and pushed up till it hit the control arm checking the yoke each time looking for the spot where it didn't go in and out anymore, but at some point I got to the end of my strength, and just couldn't push up anymore. I got a bruise on the palm of my hand trying (still here a week later) I then got the floor jack out, and used it to lift the breaker bar checking for the point of where there was just no in and out. Then I checked the rotating inch pound torque looking for 15 - 30 inch pounds. then since I was at 5, I kept going stopping a few times when I finally got to 25.

I did not torque the nut to any specific torque. I just tightened it till I got the right rotational inch pound torque.
 
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