Barbara Sylvanas do it all build

Yea I started reading about it last night. I just want their reasoning so I can compare it with all the other reasoning I get from outside sources. Thank you for reminding me not to jump the gun. I am going to learn a lot more into the plusses and minuses of each and make a final decision when the time comes.

Smart decision. Much smarter than the ones I usually make.
 
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@Sundowner , @mrblaine , @L J

So from what I can tell... The Currie AntiRock is meant more for Off-Road use only because On-road you will get a little more body roll due to the fact that it isn't as stiff of a sway bar. What I have seen is that the Antirock isn't what they call a Dual Rate sway bar so it can't switch from an Off-Road setup to an On-Road setup. This doesn't mean it can't be used On-Road but it just doesn't perform optimally.

When we talk about the ORO Swayloc it is a Dual Rate swaybar so there is the option to have it in an Off-Road setup or an On-Road setup which is probably where the difference in cost comes in. You can also have it as a lever release or a pneumatic release and engagement.

Am I right in this summarization? If what I am seeing is right I would much rather have the ORO because I will be using this as my daily driver as well.
 
This doesn't mean it can't be used On-Road but it just doesn't perform optimally.

Let's make something clear: "optimal" is almost always a qualitative measurement based on subjective impressions. Sure, it can also have numeric backing, but when its literal definition is "best or most favorable" you're talking about subjective impressions...so what's optimal to you may or may not be optimal to me. In specific: I find the #2 setting on the AntiRock to be optimal for the way I drive my TJ on the street. #1 is a bit too stiff and #3 is almost as good as #2, but allows a bit too much body lean in a hard corner for my preferences...so I use #3, and I drive my TJ on the street regularly. I found the stock front anti-sway bar to be WAY too stiff: it made the front of my Jeep feel like the back end of a wheel-hoppy M3...but that's all in the way I drive and the way my garbage suspension is set up at current. So, with all technical discussion aside, you need to stop dealing in terms that require abstract superlatives that do not exist, or you'll just fall right back down another rabbit hole.
 
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Let's make something clear: "optimal" is almost always a qualitative measurement based on subjective impressions. Sure, it can also have numeric backing, but when its literal definition is "best or most favorable" you're talking about subjective impressions...so what's optimal to you may or may not be optimal to me. In specific: I find the #2 setting on the AntiRock to be optimal for the way I drive my TJ on the street. #1 is a bit too stiff and #3 is almost as good as #2, but allows a bit too much body lean in a hard corner for my preferences...so I use #3, and I drive my TJ on the street regularly. I found the stock front anti-sway bar to be WAY too stiff: it made the front of my Jeep feel like the back end of a wheel-hoppy M3...but that's all in the way I drive and the way my garbage suspension is set up at current. So, with all technical discussion aside, you need to stop dealing in terms that require abstract superlatives that do not exist, or you'll just fall right back down another rabbit hole.

You are absolutely correct. Everyone has different needs, preferences, and such so optimal was not the best choice of vocabulary. Also I have never tested any of this so I can't say definitively that one is better than the other in either case. This is just what I have gathered from other discussions I have read through. I don't have an in depth knowledge of this so what I said was the basics without diving down the rabbit hole. There are so many if, ands, or buts when it comes to all Jeep mods that people do because we all want different things that are optimal to us individually, not as a whole. While I do appreciate the verbal jousting as much as the next intellectual, the wording is semantics in the overall discussion because I am sure you know what meant. But in the future I will word my statements more appropriately.

Side note, I dig on the "Barbara's Favorite Lich" description.
 
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because I read his post and what his intended use is

What makes it worth it out of curiosity?

1. you get the benefit of an "offroad" sway bar
2. you get the benefit of a stiffer than OEM "onroad" sway bar

Let's make something clear ...

Let's make something clear: I don't have to break out a wrench and move a link from this hole to that hole to try and find a better than poor compromise between on and off road performance. I simply flip a lever on the arm of the Swayloc and I've got great on or off road performance.
 
While I do appreciate the verbal jousting as much as the next intellectual, the wording is semantics in the overall discussion because I am sure you know what meant.

No, it isn't... and no, I didn't. That being said: you used a word that's incapable of accurate description outside of clearly defined parameters - none of which existed at the time - and you were willing to use the assumptions surrounding that usage as a basis for spending money. I see a *lot* of people make that mistake - I've done it myself - so when I had the chance to say "hang on a sec" I did so; that's really all there is to it, and none of it is semantic in nature.

I don't have to break out a wrench and move a link from this hole to that hole to try and find a better than poor compromise between on and off road performance. I simply flip a lever on the arm of the Swayloc and I've got great on or off road performance.

Okay, so you like the two options and the ease of switching between them. Fair enough; thanks for answering.
 
No, it isn't... and no, I didn't. That being said: you used a word that's incapable of accurate description outside of clearly defined parameters - none of which existed at the time - and you were willing to use the assumptions surrounding that usage as a basis for spending money. I see a *lot* of people make that mistake - I've done it myself - so when I had the chance to say "hang on a sec" I did so; that's really all there is to it, and none of it is semantic in nature.

Well assumptions are the death of many decisions and discussions. Like I said I will take better care in how I phrase things from now on. In all honesty I am not sitting here buying things and adding things to my shopping cart as suggestions come in but merely taking notes on things to look into. I greatly appreciate you hitting me with the "hang on a sec" because I was just taking what others said to heart too quickly before looking into it myself. I edited my starting post to have both units on until I come to a conclusion that suits me after proper research. I hope whoever else reads this learns from the error that I was about to make and that you pointed out. This is supposed to be a learning experience for all.

Let's make something clear: I don't have to break out a wrench and move a link from this hole to that hole to try and find a better than poor compromise between on and off road performance. I simply flip a lever on the arm of the Swayloc and I've got great on or off road performance.

I'm on the same page with you here. I am all for ease of operation.
 
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I don't know how a sway bar can be stiffer than the stock front one. That puppy is very rigid.
 
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...I was just taking what others said to heart too quickly before looking into it myself.

That's the heart of the matter, so as long as you're good on that front, you'll be in fine shape. And seriously...don't listen to a. single. goddamned. thing. that I tell you; I'm the least-knowledgeable entity on this entire forum...and several more, likely.
 
I don't know how a sway bar can be stiffer than the stock front one. That puppy is very rigid.

Can a sway bar be stiffer? I mean the point of these is not to be as stiff right?

That's the heart of the matter, so as long as you're good on that front, you'll be in fine shape. And seriously...don't listen to a. single. goddamned. thing. that I tell you; I'm the least-knowledgeable entity on this entire forum...and several more, likely.

I don't know about a single thing. You did hit me with the good ol "pump you brakes kid" and were absolutely right.
 
I don't know how a sway bar can be stiffer than the stock front one. That puppy is very rigid.

I'm on the least firm setting on mine and it is at least as stiff if not stiffer, when I switch it to the smaller diameter bar (from the comfort of my seat I might add) its similar to the AR.
 
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I'm on the least firm setting on mine and it is at least as stiff if not stiffer, when I switch it to the smaller diameter bar (from the comfort of my seat I might add) its similar to the AR.

That would be a deal breaker for me. I certainly don't want a sway bar stiffer than the factory one for DD. Now if the stiff setting was say a bit weaker than stock and the weak bar is AR territory, then I'd buy it.
 
That would be a deal breaker for me. I certainly don't want a sway bar stiffer than the factory one for DD.

:unsure:

You like on-road body roll?

Now if the stiff setting was say a bit weaker than stock and the weak bar is AR territory, then I'd buy it.

If that was the case, there'd really be no point to the product.


What are you running for a sway bar?

It seems he has the air actuated Swayloc.
 
Can a sway bar be stiffer? I mean the point of these is not to be as stiff right?

Well, it's correctly called an anti-sway bar...so, yeah. The point of most off-road models is to be not-as-stiff, but on-road is a different story: a lot of the ones people swap in are MUCH stiffer than factory units. It all depends on how you like the car to handle, and all of the parts work together...so it's kind of a balancing act, in poor terms.
 
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