Ive always had a slight chirp and some other noises ever since installing the york and ORO bracket with their included idler. Am having a very bad chirp/squeak that stays at idle and doesnt go away until high rpms like 2700+. Putting some water on the belt makes it go away- is this a bad belt then?
Belt squeal with ORO york bracket and idler
- Thread starter D M
- Start date
The instructions provided by ORO tell you how to adjust it. You will need to play with larger size idler pulleys.
I don't know how yours works. My York bracket had slots for the mounting bolts so the York was moved up in its slots to tighten the belt. Maybe your automatic spring tensioner needs to be replaced.
P. S. If you have an older TJ without an automatic spring tensioner the belt is tightened with a long screw on the power steering pump mounting bracket.
The ORO's come with a 70mm and a 76mm idler pulleys. I used the 70mm and barely could get the belt on. I have the info from ORO about idlers and belt tension if you don't have it.
How's much travel is left in the tensioner?
How's much travel is left in the tensioner?
Honestly dont remember how much play there is. All i remember is the belt sits on the edge of the idler almost as if its gonna fall off. Think im on the 70.
I can't see the belt running out on edge of idler even if a bit loose, unless the tensioner isn't putting any pressure at all on the belt. I'd take a good look at the tensioner and test it with a 1/2" drive ratchet.
Maybe a picture would help diagnose.
Maybe a picture would help diagnose.
Jerry's was the old bracket. They used to be designed so that you moved the York compressor to tension the belt. Lou, flyinfish, and I have the new style, which reused the stack spring-loaded tensioner, and I'm assuming yours does, too. I ended up with replacing all three of my idlers with 70mm idlers. I do get an occasional chirp with mine, usually on cold startup, so it's not perfect. I'm hoping I'm good, but time will tell.
I've attached the instructions that flyinfish mentioned. Here are the Gates part numbers for the two idler sizes (also in the attached instructions):
70mm is Gates 38018
76mm is Gates 38015
Also, if your rig has A/C, I still have some free decals available (Lou, I hope yours arrives soon!):
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...th-factory-air-and-oro-york-compressor.71360/
I've attached the instructions that flyinfish mentioned. Here are the Gates part numbers for the two idler sizes (also in the attached instructions):
70mm is Gates 38018
76mm is Gates 38015
Also, if your rig has A/C, I still have some free decals available (Lou, I hope yours arrives soon!):
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...th-factory-air-and-oro-york-compressor.71360/
Attachments
Sitting on the edge of the idler is a manufacturing defect by ORO for the stand-off. I had to trim mine(can’t remember how much) to make the belt sit in the middle of the idler pulley.
When did ORO start supplying two different sized pulleys? Mine from 6-7 years ago only came with one.
They only supply one but they added a page in the instructions about if your belt isn’t tight you can play around with different PN pulleys.
If I recall I ended up with a belt one size down(.5” I think). Also messed with pulleys to get the most belt tension possible.
The belt wearing has zero effect on where it sits fore and aft. The belt can stretch and your belt tensioner no longer applies adequate tension though.
Kept driving it like a moron, put some water on the belt out of curiosity, and it shut right up. Came back for a little and now its gone completely.
Call me confused
Call me confused
Or you have a bearing or other component that the belt drives that is worn out and causing excessive drag. Squealing is usually the belt slipping on a pulley. Water lubricates it and stops the squeal, but usually the slip is actually worse with water.
Here's what I'd do - remove the belt. Spin all pulleys that touch the belt. Some won't spin (crank pulley, for instance) and check for excessive drag. Then check the tensioning idler. It should take pretty good effort to move it.
Here's what I'd do - remove the belt. Spin all pulleys that touch the belt. Some won't spin (crank pulley, for instance) and check for excessive drag. Then check the tensioning idler. It should take pretty good effort to move it.