5spd manual here lol. Probably going with Redline MT90, unless someone knows of a better one.
Bench Build NP231J
- Thread starter Cameron23
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5spd manual here lol. Probably going with Redline MT90, unless someone knows of a better one.
Thats the go to here on the forum from what I have seen 90% of us run that for a manual.
I have been very happy with using Pro Honda 80/85w in my ax15. It is a non sulphur gear oil. And shifts just as good as any Redline I have used. Cheaper and more available where I am.
Had to go out of town for a funeral. But I’m back at it. Got the rear pinion seal removed with some effort. I was pretty careful not the gouge the surface but it did suffer some minor nicks and scrapes. Before I put the new seal in should I apply any RTV or anything to the surface. I’d really like to not have to do this again any time soon.
I marked the old nut and counted the threads so I’m going to use that method to put it back on. Then do like 5inch lbs more.
I marked the old nut and counted the threads so I’m going to use that method to put it back on. Then do like 5inch lbs more.
Okay for the yoke nut, I think I got it right back where it was. My marks are lined up and the same threads are showing, but it really didn’t take a whole lot of torque to get it there. Definitely some and I did torque it slightly passed the mark but I just want to make sure that’s normal and I’m not supposed to crank it down an additional turn or something. My gut says no, that would ruin my old crush sleeve that I left alone, but I want to make sure.
All I can say is does it feel right? Can't move up or down. Or in and out. Has some but not too much resistance.
-Mac
-Mac
Okay with that in mind, I’m not going to mess with it. It is t moving up or down, in or out. And the nut has a few lbs of torque behind it. What will it feel like if it’s wrong once I have everything back together, so I know what to feel for.
The in out and up down is the most important. If it's too tight it might shorten the pinion bearing life.
If you really want to calibrate your feel you need a beam type torque wrench.
-Mac
If you really want to calibrate your feel you need a beam type torque wrench.
-Mac
I have a beam TW but I didn’t bust it out.
Will there be an easy way to tell if I f**ed it up when I get everything back together? Short of everything breaking?
Will there be an easy way to tell if I f**ed it up when I get everything back together? Short of everything breaking?
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