Body lift pucks: Poly or aluminum?

mrblaine said:
I didn't say that at all. I said you want something on top of the OEM mount that isn't compressible to achieve the proper torque value and does not squish. Aluminum, steel, brass, copper, beryllium copper, acetyl, ash, oak, maple, and a few other hardwoods would work. Each has various properties that make it more or less suitable, but all have the one we need which is enough mechanical strength to not squish.
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I had not considered hardwoods like oak, etc but if you took a 1" thick oak plank and cut it into a 2 1/2" diameter circle with a 1/2" hole and a couple if coats of polyurethane to seal out moisture...
I may just try this on one of my jeeps... 😁
I like to experiment with stuff..

When @JMT let me help him install my 2" lift a couple months ago, he used 2" tall x 2 1/2" round poplar wood with a 1/2" hole drilled in the center, for the bump stops.
I keep meaning to change them out but they are holding up great!
 
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Here's a pic of @JMT s custom made poplar wood 2" bump stops.
Still working beautifully btw..
20190216_103658.jpg

Sorry about the cloudy day pic
 
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Been running a MORE kit for 15+ years with no problems. It was the best kit available at the time but if I were to do one today I would look more towards Savvy. I like that they machine the pucks to provide more surface contact with the mount and the extra .25 inch does not hurt either.
 
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Blackjack said:
Been running a MORE kit for 15+ years with no problems. It was the best kit available at the time but if I were to do one today I would look more towards Savvy. I like that they machine the pucks to provide more surface contact with the mount and the extra .25 inch does not hurt either.
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If you are talking about the skirt that comes down over the top of the metal cap, it is there for two reasons, to center the puck on the mount and to disguise the body lift ever so slightly. The fact that it adds more surface area is of little consequence since the top of the cap isn't flat and a smaller diameter puck easily covers the flat part that is in contact. The top side is however, designed to achieve as much contact as possible with the tub surfaces.
 
mrblaine said:
If you are talking about the skirt that comes down over the top of the metal cap, it is there for two reasons, to center the puck on the mount and to disguise the body lift ever so slightly. The fact that it adds more surface area is of little consequence since the top of the cap isn't flat and a smaller diameter puck easily covers the flat part that is in contact. The top side is however, designed to achieve as much contact as possible with the tub surfaces.
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Yes I should have said the top. I do like the esthetics of the Savvy as well but I am definitely more of a function first type.
 
bobthetj03 said:
Why did the industry decide that the extra 0.25" was desirable?
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I don't know that the industry did. I designed the Savvy version to have that dimension because it was easier to dimple the tub upward a 1/4" less for the Rubi t-case when installed with the Under Armor. It also gives just enough room over the rear mid arm bracket that you can shove the heat shield up on the passenger side and clear the top of the JJ barrel rather than removing that section of shield and prying the tub up a bit.

Also satisfies my mantra of "everything you need and nothing you don't" when I build something.
 
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bobthetj03 said:
Why did the industry decide that the extra 0.25" was desirable?
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My memory of it... In the beginning, there was a large range of body lifts. 2" wasn't unheard of. Around 2010 at the time Savvy released their tummy tucked skid there was primarily 0.5", 1" and 1.25" body lifts on the market; 2" and up had started to decline already because it was already deemed excessive and ugly. Once Savvy released their tummy tuck which was the highest bolt on tummy tuck on the market and it required 1.25", the forums started suggesting solely 1.25" body lift kits so that skid or any of the other skids that required 1" could be used in the future. So I think it came down to demand for 1.25" which turned the market towards that size.
 
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mrblaine said:
I don't know that the industry did. I designed the Savvy version to have that dimension because it was easier to dimple the tub upward a 1/4" less for the Rubi t-case when installed with the Under Armor. It also gives just enough room over the rear mid arm bracket that you can shove the heat shield up on the passenger side and clear the top of the JJ barrel rather than removing that section of shield and prying the tub up a bit.

Also satisfies my mantra of "everything you need and nothing you don't" when I build something.
Click to expand...


toximus said:
My memory of it... In the beginning, there was a large range of body lifts. 2" wasn't unheard of. Around 2010 at the time Savvy released their tummy tucked skid there was primarily 0.5", 1" and 1.25" body lifts on the market; 2" and up had started to decline already because it was already deemed excessive and ugly. Once Savvy released their tummy tuck which was the highest bolt on tummy tuck on the market and it required 1.25", the forums started suggesting solely 1.25" body lift kits so that skid or any of the other skids that required 1" could be used in the future. So I think it came down to demand for 1.25" which turned the market towards that size.
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Makes sense. Thanks for the explanation.
 
toximus said:
35ftlbs (torqued correctly) netted me less than 1.25in on JKS mounts and contributed to a damaged body on my red LJ. If you'd like them, I'll send you them for free but if they give less than 1.25in of BL you'll need to pay me for them.
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I currently run JKS pucks. Your experience and my experience differ. If you thread locked your bolts like JKS instructed, you need to run slightly less torque than 35 ft/lbs.

It doesn't take an engineer to tell you aluminum and poly compress at different rates. If you are really concerned about the extra +- .15", then go aluminum.

JKS and Currie are the two highest rated BL's for the TJ. You can't go wrong with either.

/thread
 
ShredAZ said:
I currently run JKS pucks. Your experience and my experience differ. If you thread locked your bolts like JKS instructed, you need to run slightly less torque than 35 ft/lbs.

It doesn't take an engineer to tell you aluminum and poly compress at different rates. If you are really concerned about the extra +- .15", then go aluminum.

JKS and Currie are the two highest rated BL's for the TJ. You can't go wrong with either.

/thread
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Highest rated doesn't mean shit. All that means is a whole bunch of folks got suckered.
 
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ShredAZ said:
I currently run JKS pucks. Your experience and my experience differ. If you thread locked your bolts like JKS instructed, you need to run slightly less torque than 35 ft/lbs.

It doesn't take an engineer to tell you aluminum and poly compress at different rates. If you are really concerned about the extra +- .15", then go aluminum.

JKS and Currie are the two highest rated BL's for the TJ. You can't go wrong with either.

/thread
Click to expand...

I can't tell you how much BL JKS gave me, what I can tell you is that it wasn't enough. For me it was the difference of Savvy mid-arm not physically fitting under the tub with the JKS body lift.

Additionally, if you look at the back of my red LJ tub you can see what happens when the body lift isn't properly supporting the tub. Torqued properly or not torqued at all, the JKS body mounts will compress further with additional load applied and the body distorts.
 
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Here is a clear example of why highest rated is crap.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DGZ8ZC7/?tag=wranglerorg-20

4.5 stars means anyone would buy it that is in the market for a long range antenna.
#1- no antenna for TV works beyond about 30 miles line of sight, look it up. The 150 mile claim is completely bogus.
#2- 360 degrees of rotation to fine tune it. Yes, it does turn when you press the remote. What they don't tell you is which way it turns is arbitrary. You start turning to adjust, not quite far enough, hit the button again and it reverses direction.
#3- Pay close attention to the dimensions and the size of the hand relative to the antenna. They say it is 20" long but you can toss the whole mess into a brown paper normal size shopping bag.
#4 The thing is an electronic pile of poo. We stood on the house with it and carefully pointed it at the transmitter location and the reception did not change.

In other words, there are a whole bunch of folks saying some shit that is just bizarre.
 
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I'd go Savvy. I have a JKS, and I'm getting belling of the lift pucks, just like @toximus and @jjvw are seeing. This is with brand new body mounts and bolts as well. Will probably pull them, sell them off, and replace with Savvy. Since the JKS and Savvy are approximately the same price, just start there.
 
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When I did my body lift, I got new rubber body mounts (since mine were 21 years old). And got the Savvy 1.25" aluminum kit. I used anti-seize and torqued it to the right specs, and it's been great. For me, it seems to be the right choice.

FWIW, Savvy customer service was great too when I had an issue.
 
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mrblaine said:
I didn't say that at all. I said you want something on top of the OEM mount that isn't compressible to achieve the proper torque value and does not squish. Aluminum, steel, brass, copper, beryllium copper, acetyl, ash, oak, maple, and a few other hardwoods would work. Each has various properties that make it more or less suitable, but all have the one we need which is enough mechanical strength to not squish.
Click to expand...
Are you saying i can make custom body mounts out of the oak trees in my yard?!
 
I ended up using 1" Rokmen aluminum. I think I'm late to the show, but wanted to post anyways. (y)
 
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