I’m in the middle of this process and how do you guys access the weld nuts to cut/break them off? Also how do you access that space again when inserting the nut to a new bolt after the new shock is in place?
I’m in the middle of this process and how do you guys access the weld nuts to cut/break them off? Also how do you access that space again when inserting the nut to a new bolt after the new shock is in place?
I haven't had to deal with these shock mounts yet, but I remembered this thread when I was replacing my body mounts, and noticed that when you have the tub lifted up, you can get at these nuts pretty easily.I’m in the middle of this process and how do you guys access the weld nuts to cut/break them off? Also how do you access that space again when inserting the nut to a new bolt after the new shock is in place?
Yea I saw that video. It was good. But I’m not looking to drop the gas tank and raise the body mounts.I used a dremel silimar to this video, but watch this to get an idea of what you need to do.
I think I’m leaning towards this route. What are some of the opinions?I personally didn’t have this issue, but as I was preparing I saw a video of a guy who drilled a 1/2” hole in the frame and put it a through bolt with washers. He had to remove the T-bar from the shock. It was an interesting and easy way to solve the issue. Not sure if strength would be an issue.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So you're going to lower the upper shock mount by about an inch? You're going to lose some space for the shock body at full compression. I think you'd want to double-check your rear bump stop so the shock doesn't fully compress before you hit the bump stop.I think I’m leaning towards this route.
Yea I saw that video. It was good. But I’m not looking to drop the gas tank and raise the body mounts.
I think I’m leaning towards this route. What are some of the opinions?
Here’s the video link
Yea I saw that video. It was good. But I’m not looking to drop the gas tank and raise the body mounts.
I think I’m leaning towards this route. What are some of the opinions?
Here’s the video link
I can feel the bolts from the drain hole behind the back seats so I’m gonna cut a small 2x2 access window above the broken weld nut, like some owners have done. I’m hoping not having to do the same on the other side (fingers crossed).
I wasn’t crazy about drilling the frame (except for drain holes) and I’m thinking/hoping this would be the only time I need to change the shocks. .
Great! Thanks for the offer! If I’m still struggling in a week I’ll resort to help. What did you use for the access panel covers? It looks really good. I can’t even tell where the accesses are.I had an absolute bear of a time with this job & in the end came to the same conclusion & I think in the end you'll be happy going that route. The access holes are easy to cut out & easy to cover back up, the rest of the job not so much .
I used black caulk so it'll be really easy to pop them off if need be in the future. I dunked them in anti-seize too. After setting the access panels in I gave everything a shot of paint, doesn't look too bad, the only thing that's ever in the back is my wheeling tool box anyway which mostly covers it up.
Driver's side
View attachment 59701
passenger side:
View attachment 59702
by the way I'm right down the road from you in Chester County if you ever need a hand
That’s the plan to use those. But We will see if the hole would be big enough to get the dremel thru. Im gonna start small then make bigger if necessary.Just a suggestion, but instead of cutting 2”x2” squares cut an oval the same size as the floorboard drains and buy plugs for them.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XSJT6QQ/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Regarding bar pin eliminators, why would you want to reduce shock travel?
Great! Thanks for the offer! If I’m still struggling in a week I’ll resort to help. What did you use for the access panel covers? It looks really good. I can’t even tell where the accesses are.
Wow I feel like you just wrote my tj shocks journey. I’m in no way shape or form a mechanic but I consider myself fairly handy (I finished my own basement). In hind sight I wish I took it to the Jeep guy, paid whatever install cost is and be done with it. Now I feel like I paid what I would have in tools and 4x that in aggravation and time. Needless to say after this job I’m hanging up my mechanics tool belt except for relatively simple tasks. Wrestling these rusted screws and bolts is horrible. Not to mention I smell like PB blaster all the time now lol. And I’m not even finished the job yetI picked up a piece of sheet metal at Home Depot, can't remember the gauge but it was pretty thick, no bend to it at all so more than sufficient for these purposes as it's not weight bearing or structural anyway, came in a sheet maybe 8x12 or so & I think it was less than ten bucks.
I'm not sure what you're going to use to cut the nuts off but I used one of these Dremel 90 degree attachments which made cutting the access holes the size I did necessary, at least 2x2 on the driver's side & even bigger on the other. I have a drain hole near one of the shock bolts but no way is it large enough to fit this thing in there to get after those bolts... seriously it was one of the low points of my life
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...rning-read-for-amusement-purposes-only.12686/
View attachment 59706
Wow I feel like you just wrote my tj shocks journey. I’m in no way shape or form a mechanic but I consider myself fairly handy (I finished my own basement). In hind sight I wish I took it to the Jeep guy, paid whatever install cost is and be done with it. Now I feel like I paid what I would have in tools and 4x that in aggravation and time. Needless to say after this job I’m hanging up my mechanics tool belt except for relatively simple tasks. Wrestling these rusted screws and bolts is horrible. Not to mention I smell like PB blaster all the time now lol. And I’m not even finished the job yet
So after cutting the nut off, what’s the best approach to remove the rest of the bolt? Drill and punch? Or another easier method? I bought my dremel the other day and used it to cut off one of the lower bolts on the front shocks
Same thing I suggested on another thread. Gotta hand it to @Westtown Willy, though, the job he did looks really clean. Very inconspicuous. :thumbsup:Just a suggestion, but instead of cutting 2”x2” squares cut an oval the same size as the floorboard drains and buy plugs for them.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XSJT6QQ/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Regarding bar pin eliminators, why would you want to reduce shock travel?