Brutal Driveline Vibrations

Goatman said:
All TJs have a DC front drive shaft. I think they all have regular shafts in the rear. Even my 06 Rubicon has a single joint at the transfer case and a single joint at the rear pinion. So does the OP. Difference being his slides in and out of the transfer case, mine is bolted to the TC output flange. This is why people switch to a Slip Yoke Eliminater. And then buy a DC driveshaft. If they already came that way stock we wouldn't see so many vibration problems.
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I’ve purchased a SYE and DC rear shaft.

I wanted to take the rear out myself but my mechanic buddy said you might not be able to do that with an automatic. He knows cars that are automatic you can’t do that with.
Also if fluid comes out? Do I have to top up the fluid before driving?
 
Karl said:
So I was just at a buddies shop. I figured I’d ask him before pulling the rear drive shaft. He said he’s not sure I can do that with an automatic.

So can I pull the rear drive shaft and roll around in 4 high with an automatic?

Cheers
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I drove around with my rear drive shaft out for a while waiting for parts. Mines a 97 auto. You should be fine
 
Hi all,

Just want to say I haven't forgot about this thread and I WILL update once have new shaft and SYE in.
I wanted to point out, when I engage 4hi, the vibrations are MUCH lower. This tells me the front is compensating for the back. Not to mention the front is a DC shaft stock.
Rear shaft and SYE going in October 9.

Cheers and thank you all for the help and putting up with my newbie jeep issue.

KT
 
Hi all, better late than never....
My driveshaft:
https://www.northridge4x4.ca/part/r...ft-rear-extreme-duty-solid-1310-cv-driveshaft
and my SYE kit:
https://ruggedridge.com/np231-slip-yoke-eliminator-sye-kit-18676-60.html
Are both installed. See pictures. The vibrations are WAY better. The wheel doesn't shake when going from first to second gear (automatic) AT ALL! and that wall of vibrations at 80 km/h are not there. The only bit of stuff I get now I think is from the blocked catalytic converter. I have yet to do that since I ordered a full exhaust replacements in 3 parts.

I have since realized i have an issue with my speedometer. So 80km/h on the speedo means 95km/h on my phone app. 100 on speedo is 117 on phone. I frankly cannot be bothered to fix this for a while but this was the same both before and after the installation of the SYE.

In short this for sure fixed the problem. I do realize my rear pinion angle could be a little straighter with the driveshaft. I'll get this done eventually as I don't think it's off by enough to hurt anything after all..... no vibrations.

Cheers!

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Congrats on getting it fixed!

The pinion angle looks like it still might be a little low, so that could potentially cure even some more vibrations if you get it dialed in even more. Sometime you have to play around with it a bit and find the sweet spot, as it can be different from vehicle-to-vehicle.
 
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Chris said:
Congrats on getting it fixed!

The pinion angle looks like it still might be a little low, so that could potentially cure even some more vibrations if you get it dialed in even more. Sometime you have to play around with it a bit and find the sweet spot, as it can be different from vehicle-to-vehicle.
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Definitely off just a little. Minor vibration at 0-10km/h. But the driving is way better!
 
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Update:

Had a SYE and adamsDC driveshaft installed. Way better. Certainly the main cause of the vibrations. I still need myrear pinion angle tweaked. I get some random little vibrations here and there.

As an aside, my cat broke. I ended up getting a new manifold (banks), cat (magnaflow) and cat back (banks monster). This has been another noticeable difference in vibrations. Much smoother now obviously ad my engine is breathing properly.
 
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Not saying that this is your minor vibration issue but of all the research ive done and first hand experience of a good friend of mine, balance beads tend not to work well in car/truck tires but work great in motorcycle tires due to the internal tire difference.
 
Thoward said:
Not saying that this is your minor vibration issue but of all the research ive done and first hand experience of a good friend of mine, balance beads tend not to work well in car/truck tires but work great in motorcycle tires due to the internal tire difference.
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Hey. You are totally right. Those vibrations kick in at about 60mph though. I know the 0-5 mph minor ones are from the pinion angle being off for sure.
You’re totally right tho, especially with cheaper tires.
 
Thoward said:
Not saying that this is your minor vibration issue but of all the research ive done and first hand experience of a good friend of mine, balance beads tend not to work well in car/truck tires but work great in motorcycle tires due to the internal tire difference.
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There's a product called Centramatic that does just that, minus the mess or hassle of beads. I have them installed on my jeep. They really seem to smooth out tire vibrations well. Make a little noise at 5 mph, but at higher speeds they're silent. No tire vibrations whatsoever.

I do have driveline vibrations, but they're from the front driveshaft, not the tires.

As a general rule of thumb, if you see the vibrations but don't hear them (except for resulting rattles), it's probably tire balance. If you hear it as a rumble but can't see the individual vibrations at highway speeds (not visibly shaken, but maybe a blurry mirror instead), it's more likely driveline.

The tire vibrations, in Hz, will always have a fundamental note at whatever the rotational speed of the tire is, in revolutions per second. Driveline vibrations (in Hz) will be tire speed (revolutions per second) times the gear ratio in the differentials, and will generally be in the audible range at freeway speeds.
 
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Steel City 06 said:
There's a product called Centramatic that does just that, minus the mess or hassle of beads. I have them installed on my jeep. They really seem to smooth out tire vibrations well. Make a little noise at 5 mph, but at higher speeds they're silent. No tire vibrations whatsoever.

I do have driveline vibrations, but they're from the front driveshaft, not the tires.

As a general rule of thumb, if you see the vibrations but don't hear them (except for resulting rattles), it's probably tire balance. If you hear it as a rumble but can't see the individual vibrations at highway speeds (not visibly shaken, but maybe a blurry mirror instead), it's more likely driveline.

The tire vibrations, in Hz, will always have a fundamental note at whatever the rotational speed of the tire is, in revolutions per second. Driveline vibrations (in Hz) will be tire speed (revolutions per second) times the gear ratio in the differentials, and will generally be in the audible range at freeway speeds.
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Thats a fantastic rule of thumb. My steering wheel bounces/vibrates a little at high speeds. This is hands down my tires. They "are balanced" with beads but only so much they can do. I also have CF3000 comforsers so chinese brand stuff. They are unreal in snow and mud but high speeds with them are shitty. I'll look into that stuff you mentioned. One question, if my tires are already balanced with beads, can I just add one after. Just looking now and it appears they are 289CAD each? Hopefully I'm wrong and they sell them as a set of 4 for 289 but I see no information clarifying this. Will email them. This actually has me very excited.
 
Karl said:
Thats a fantastic rule of thumb. My steering wheel bounces/vibrates a little at high speeds. This is hands down my tires. They "are balanced" with beads but only so much they can do. I also have CF3000 comforsers so chinese brand stuff. They are unreal in snow and mud but high speeds with them are shitty. I'll look into that stuff you mentioned. One question, if my tires are already balanced with beads, can I just add one after. Just looking now and it appears they are 289CAD each? Hopefully I'm wrong and they sell them as a set of 4 for 289 but I see no information clarifying this. Will email them. This actually has me very excited.
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They come as a set of 4. I would avoid the beads if using one, but it probably won't matter. Might be worth confirming with the manufacturer that the beads won't fight the balancers.
 
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Steel City 06 said:
They come as a set of 4. I would avoid the beads if using one, but it probably won't matter. Might be worth confirming with the manufacturer that the beads won't fight the balancers.
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I've done some reading on forums and it appears there are quite a few people who left the beads or the balanced weights on their wheels. The weights i don't see being an issue...if they stayed on. Read a couple people lost weights over time and didn't even notice since they had the balancers on. I'll Just give it a shot. I have a set on the way!
 
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