Bty34 TJ build

Finalized the three link mount for the front axle. Cut down the angled portion of the casting to make a flat surface and then made a spacer to bring it up flush with the other pair. Reused one tab that was on the cover and added one more.







Finalized the frame side trac bar mount. Transferred the mockup drag link mount over to a piece of 3/4" plate and welded it to the high steer arm. Moved the axle side trac bar mount a little and then welded it on to the axle. The hydraulic hoses I had for the ram assist were a couple inches short with the new ram location. Had a new set made up locally. Found a spot behind the trac bar on the inner C to mount the link for the Sway Loc.








Moved under it's own power. Took it for a ride for an inspection and a check engine light popped up on the way. Otherwise relatively uneventful first 25 miles. Except for the rear Detroit it doesn't feel much different on the road, which is good.

Looks great. Nice job.

Thanks, feels good to have it out and driving around.

Swapped the bank 2 upstream O2 sensor, which took care of my code. Drove another 80 miles to get the monitors to reset and then took it in for an inspection.

Back when I moved the rear coil buckets on the frame a few years ago, I purposely raised them as high as I could figuring it was easier to add spacers down the road. I previously doubled up the rubber isolators to make up for it a little bit. I was still a little low with the kids in the back, so I pulled the isolators and added a 1" spacer. The center needed to be opened up to work with the Currie bumpstops.

Currently sitting with 6" of travel at both ends with the bottom of the frame at 21" If I clearance the floor of the tub for the upper control arms I might be able to get another 1/2" in the back, but that is a project for a other time along with getting the rear antirock back in.

  • Like
Reactions: Mike_H and Wildman
The Jeep survived it's first outing without any real surprises. The first day we struggled a little. It was in the low 40s when we started and I took the tires down to 8 psi. As it warmed up, I was up to 10 by the end of the day. On the 15" rims I normally like to run 7 but it was the first time out on the 17s. Terrain was a little more loose and muddy. Wasn't bad, but struggled to get out of holes left from the guys on 39s and 40s ahead of us.

Second day we went down to 7psi like normal and checked it a couple times over the course of the day to make sure it didn't climb. Trails were less muddy and more rocky and things went better. We were the only ones on less than 37s, but I felt like we held our own.

Not a fan of the rear Detroit. There were a couple of times I wasn't able to hold a line that I thought I should have been able to. I normally spend 90% of my time with the rear unlocked. At some point it will get switched to a selectable.

Going from a crawl ratio of 53 to 108 is quite a change. Sometimes the extra momentum works out when it's slick, but the added control at low speeds is nice and my knee feels better at the end of the day. Messed around a couple of times with front digs with some success which was kinda cool.

Overall pretty happy with it considering how much was taken apart and redone since last time it was out.



Skids on the axles have some drag marks. Managed to bend the tie rod. I think I remember backing off a rock and dropping onto it. I'll rotate it 1/4 turn for now and straighten it when I pull things apart to paint this winter.

Skid held up ok. There was one mark from contacting a bolt head on the bottom of the Atlas. Made some relief with a flap wheel on the back side. The countersink I had in hand when I originally made it was only 13/16 and not quite enough for the 1/2" bolts. Borrowed a larger countersink and opened them up.







  • Like
Reactions: PNW_LJ
Did you ever reinstall the rear antirock or did you wheel it with no rear sway bar?

If wheeled with no rear sway bar did you see much difference between wheeling it with the rear antirock and without?

With the slightly wider axle, do you have room to keep the antirock on the fwd side of the rear axle or when you go to the larger tires will that take away any added benefit?
Last edited:
Did you ever reinstall the rear antirock or did you wheel it with no rear sway bar?

If wheeled with no rear sway bar did you see much difference between wheeling it with the rear antirock and without?

With the slightly wider axle, do you have room to keep the antirock on the fwd side of the rear axle or when you go to the larger tires will that take away any added benefit?

I haven't reinstalled the rear antirock yet. In the plans for this winter sometime.

There were enough other changes that I couldn't say one way or the other if missing it made a difference. I originally moved away from the stock swaybar on the Dana 35 as I bashed it in rocks enough it was bent. It went on at the same time as the midarm and switching to beadlocks. The jeep performed better, but again I could say how much could be attributed to each change.

With the 62" wms axle over the 60.5" and switching from 3.5" backspacing 8" wide rims to 4.5" backspacing 9" wide rims I didn't really gain any width. I think when I did the math the inside lip of the wheel was closer and the tire moved out around 1/8". With a stock wheelbase TJ I don't think you can fit it in front of the axle, the arms are too long. If you stretch or have an lj, it can work. Or run less travel, with the 12" shock, at full articulation the stuffed tire is close enough to the inside of the wheel well that there isn't enough room for the arm.

Here's how I had it mounted previously.






WP_20170405_17_56_44_Pro (2).jpg

  • Like
Reactions: Wildman
Even with a stretch it was a PITA to try and get the AR to work with it in front of the axle. But I couldn't fit it behind the axle so I didn't have a choice.
And trying to make it work around my air bags was even more of a PITA.
When I bought my TJ it didn't have a rear swaybar and when I swapped in the CDR60 I didn't install one. So I'm curious to see how it affects things.
Started on getting the antirock back in. I gave up the first time around as the bar didn't fit over my tank. I'll likely need to space the tank down a little as it is currently contacting the bottom of the tub.


Here is a stock skid with no body lift for comparison. The top of the tank is 3/4-7/8" lower.



The current contour of the bottom of the skid may be contributing to this some.




Pulled the tank and hammered the skid back closer to flat.


The back edge is a little distorted as well. Stuck the whole skid in the press and got it a little better.

Last edited:
New mounts for the anti rock started as a piece of 3/16" plate and a section of the tube that comes with the universal kit.


Tried shoving them all the back, but the footprint of the arms is bigger than the OD of the tube


Settled on just behind the crossmember that the rear seat belts bolt to.



The crossmember hangs down about half an inch and the bar is .800", so I'm going to need to bring the tank down slightly.

It does match up with the location when using the TJ rear mounts.


Not many options for the axle side mount with the stupid big Super Duty calipers. The goal is to keep the arm above the tire and the link inside the footprint of the outboarded shock. I also need to get a new clip on my ebrake cable.





All welded up.


I did end up having to drop the rear of the tank 1/2". I had a piece of 1/8" plastic I used as a feeler between the tank and torsion bar. It fits, but snug. My rear frame is raised 1 1/4" and the rear of the Savvy skid is in the no body lift position, so I'm now 1/4" lower in the rear than a standard frame and raised position.

  • Like
Reactions: tworley and Wildman
Did you have to do anything with your fill and breather tube?
I ran the fill tube behind the torsion bar and the vent line in front of it. This seemed to work better than putting both on one side or the other.
Finally got around to pulling my tie rod and putting it in the press to straighten it out after the last trip out. It's a piece of 1.25" .120 wall tube sleeved with 1" solid 4340.


Much better now.

  • Like
Reactions: Woodrow and tworley
Swapped out the stock master for a slightly larger bore Durango master to match up better with the larger calipers based on Blaine's recommendation. I haven't come across a great solution to get rid of the large rear calipers.

Pulled my ARB sliders. I think they're a decent option, but are showing some wear from a couple harder hits. I like having something extend out to protect the door opening, so I went with Savvy rather than a mini boatside. Makes me feel a little better that Savvy started production in 2009 and I installed the ARB sliders in 2008.



Started with the drivers side since the tub is less mangled on that side.


Elected to notch the sliders around the corner armor rather than pulling the corner armor and messing with the paint. I'm happy with how it turned out considering.



Also reminded me that the torque boxes will need to be dealt with at some point.
  • Like
Reactions: PNW_LJ and Woodrow
Sliders are done. The fronts needed to be trimmed a little bit to match the modified fenders.


Using the dead blow really helped get them seated.

Fresh paint didn't last long, but at least they're not dented and the tub didn't get damaged. Although I didn't get into anything where I would have expected a problem with the ARB sliders.



Dropped off something and bent the tie rod again. Got it back close.




Baja Boss have been holding up well overall.


Had my fist exposure to the Baja Pro XS. I expected a lot better, especially comparing the 40 to my 35.

  • Like
Reactions: gasiorv