That is significantly more than the Kubota, right?210hp at 3600rpm and 385ft-lbs of torque at 1800rpm.
-Grant
That is significantly more than the Kubota, right?210hp at 3600rpm and 385ft-lbs of torque at 1800rpm.
-Grant
Hey Grant? What are you going to do with the transfer case clocking on that XJ AW4? The clocking is 23 degrees, and the TJ 231J clocking is 13 degrees. Are you redrilling the mounting holes?
Very cool! (Both the clocking and the transmission controller) This is a well thought out project.
Can you explain what you're doing with the governor on the Kubota? Will you have some over revving mechanism / protection?
How about the fuel pump and fuel lines, does any of that need to be changed since it's a diesel conversion?
That is significantly more than the Kubota, right?
Good bloody grief that's simple! Outstanding, thanks for the pictures. I'm a visual kind of guy.So in truth the governor is just two set screws, one for idle and one for maximum rpm, here are some pictures of it on my V2403:
View attachment 67590
View attachment 67591
Thanks
Grant
Most Jeep TJ transmissions are rated in the 300 ft-lbs torque range for continuous duty, so again, the Kubota is a good match.Sorry @Calvin.8 I missed this, and the answer is kind of? The Cummins R2.8 can rev higher, but depending on the turbo setup you go with you would get the same amount of torque from the Kubota as the Cummins engine.
However in terms of my build, YES the Cummins R2.8l is going to have more torque, horsepower and RPM than my Kubota engine. The Cummins is going to be 385ft-lbs of torque and the Kubota is going to be between 300~325ft-lbs of torque, however the Cummins is a larger displacement motor.
Now that I'm thinking about it though, my Kubota V2403 is a IDI engine, if you got a V2203 DI motor, you might be nearly identical in terms of torque with around 350ft-lbs and I would guess horsepower on the DI motor would be like 160ish horsepower. So still down on horsepower but the torque would be really close and with some tuning you could probably match it . . .
-Grant
Good bloody grief that's simple! Outstanding, thanks for the pictures. I'm a visual kind of guy.
I've been reading everything I can find on Kubota into Jeep conversions, and the results always seem to be universally outstanding. No appreciable downside on the freeway other than a slightly decreased top speed, and outstanding performance off road. No issues just putting around either. No reports of broken drive train parts.
The more I research, the more desirable this swap looks for a broad range of Jeep drivers.
Most Jeep TJ transmissions are rated in the 300 ft-lbs torque range for continuous duty, so again, the Kubota is a good match.
Lol, and I've got a grip o'hills to deal with around here.Yup that as well! Honestly the thing that annoyed me the most driving my TJ was going up this long hill near my house. It's about a 1.5 mile long and my TJ was constantly going from 4th gear to 3rd gear where as my Liberty CRD can go up the hill in 5th gear all day long . . . pulling a trailer . . . with my TJ on the trailer.
I'm so looking forward to getting on the highway and just staying in 4th gear regardless if I'm on flat land or going up a grade.
-Grant
Lol, and I've got a grip o'hills to deal with around here.
Well, it's looking more and more like this is a very good idea for my uses Grant. Thanks again for starting this thread and sharing all this information. It may have changed my build plan some. Finish up my suspension mods, do the rest of my interior mods and then plug in the Kubota. Then finish out the armor in steel instead of aluminum (maybe). Whoot!
Aluminum can get spendy very quicly. Not everyone does aluminum, and many who do, just copy their steel parts. That's no beuno. Then there's the issue of a lot of aluminum parts being no lighter than the corresponding steel parts. With my SE and the rather anemic 2.5, my goal has always been to shave pounds where I can, or at least not end up adding more weight. It's a lot tougher than it sounds in the TJ world. And a lot more expensive.Hey @StG58 that was my goal from the start, do a completely unusual build but show everyone two things, first show them every time I wrench on my Jeep so they can see what it takes to do one of these swaps and secondly where to get the parts needed to do this swap.
Admittedly mine has gotten a little out of hand because I'm going with a doubler NP231 transfer case setup, but still it's something anyone can do which is the most important part to me!
As for me I would love to go ahead an do a bunch of aluminum upgrades right now! I just don't have the funds at the moment!!!
-Grant
Aluminum can get spendy very quicly. Not everyone does aluminum, and many who do, just copy their steel parts. That's no beuno. Then there's the issue of a lot of aluminum parts being no lighter than the corresponding steel parts. With my SE and the rather anemic 2.5, my goal has always been to shave pounds where I can, or at least not end up adding more weight. It's a lot tougher than it sounds in the TJ world. And a lot more expensive.
I like your solution to graphically document your build. I tried that with my spring and shock refresh using a the camera on my phone and it turned out to be unhelpful. It's very hard to document a dynamic process with static pictures. Doing both yourself. You always seem to miss the best and most important parts.
OK, let's talk gearing and tire size for a minute. Everything I've read so far seems to indicate that the V2203-DI (not your specific engine, but related) likes to cruise around at 2,000 - 2,100 rpm. The best power band seems to be 1,800 to 2,400 rpm. So that's our envelope. Correct? Reasonable? Max seems to be 2,800 to 3,000 rpm. (Just double checking what I've read elsewhere here) so if I select a tire size, say 32x11.50, select a cruising speed in overdrive and then do the math magic I should get an axle gear ratio that gives me that cruising speed at the desired rpm. Then do the math for all the other gears to see if the reasonable 600 rpm available rpm envelope works. (With a little ish in there) Are those reasonable numbers and a reasonable approach? Also, if that's reasonable, would you mind me throwing those calcs and results into your thread?
Thank you for the offer @Ranger_b0b, that's very kind. I've got it covered though. Even though I prefer a good database, busting that out in Excel isn't an issue for me.I think it would be pretty simple to build a spreadsheet of MPH vs RPM in excel. @StG58 if you want to give me two points in each gear, (maybe 15 and 30 in the lower gears, 30 and 60 in the higher gears) I can VERY quickly create a graph to show the overlaps...
With an auto, things get more difficult due to the torque converter...