Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Building Homer (2005 TJ Build Thread)

Good looking stance pic with the hardtop off:

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Taking off the hardtop so I can get to the roll bar for:
  • Stereo upgrade including new speakers
  • Pull off roll bar padding to fabric paint (like won't get there until the spring)
Probably will help with other upgrades to have flexibility to open the Jeep in the garage this winter.

Soft top should go on tomorrow if things go as planned.

Received the new Currie TC end at the axle that isn't a rubber bushing but a JJ so looking forward to disassembly/lube before install. Unlikely until the end of the week.

Learned I likely have a couple ceiling light ballast that are bad in my lighting, so I may have a project there too — next too many projects...
 
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Took him over for an emissions test this morning. Yup - another missions test.... The one in July was to complete the postponed test from 2 years ago (they were pretty relaxed because of COVID). Today was to clear my actual 2-year test.

Pass - so set for another 2 years. Tech has a Cherokee on 33s and immediately recognized the 35s. We chatted gearing while the test ran. 🍻

(I'm finding the 4.56 are not deep enough for the 35s with the NSG-370)

Haven't pulled out the soft top yet so went topless. First topless drive in years... Loved it!! Miss it!!

Felt way more comfortable driving. Not having anyone else on the road let me play around a little and really feel out how he handles under throttle, see how the steering responds, etc. (y)

Will be out wrenching shortly.
 
Scheduled an alignment at the local Jeep dealership for next Friday. They sell new modified Jeeps so I figure they're the best local place to understand a lift with adjustable control arms. Not too many shorts in the are that modify Jeeps & trucks. I hate to pay the stealership labor rates but they're the one I feel most comfortable with in the area.
 
Put on the soft top and when I went to install the rear side windows...

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Threads tore at the same spot on both sides. It's an OEM top I picked up in great shape about 11 years ago off Craigslist. Hasn't been on the Jeep in 3 years. It was snug, which I liked to keep down the flapping, but I guess age and taut don't mix.

Wife agreed I should buy a top rather than trying to find time to learn to sow this one back together. She's the best!

Now I've got to shop tops and decide if I switch to black or stay with the khaki (not tan).
 
Went to install the new track bar end at the axle and fount that the new design (despite it's appearance) is not serviceable as separate ball & bushing pieces.

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So I lined up the hole in the bushing with the zerk and it took grease - so we'll call it a win.

Compared with the original design that came on the track bar I got in my Currie/Savvy kit which keeps the stop 10mm bolt. New design takes a 1/2" bolt at the joint.

(This is before I covered the threads in antiseize)
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Installed:

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Next up was to work on fixing the shifter. You can see a few posts ago that it's right up against the dash.

I've had the shifter knob off before but it looks like age didn't keep the flexibility in the materials to get off the cap on the nut...

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So I'll customize the interior with a new shifter knob. Gonna look for something fun.

I heated up the shifter and put it in the press to get it close. I want to give it a second try to dial it in a final time before painting it.

—-

I ordered a new shift boot when I ordered the steering wheel cover. You can see the cracking in the OEM boot.

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Got the boot off the holder. Appears to have been glued on. I plan to paint the holder and then figure out a best way to glue down the new boot.

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—-

While in the interior, I tried to see if I can find why the turn signal isn't always cancelling. I pulled the switch module and confirmed it's cancelling function works correctly.

Turned the wheel to check out the clock spring and either a tooth broke off or it's mis-clocked. Since I had the wheel off to get the new cover on, it's a possibility it's mis-clocked. So I'll pull and confirm that or a broken tooth before investing in a new $200 clockspring.

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Had a few more minutes in the garage so I figured I'd start seeing how rusted the rear hinges bolts are stuck. I have the Morryde hinges & tailgate reinforcement ready to go on to support the 35" spare.

Being a new model, I have hex-head bolts and not torx. All of them broke free easily and seemed to back out about a 1/4 of the way easily - so I installed them back in to keep the tailgate in place.

Lowest one closest to the corner was a little rusted so I backed it out all the way. Taking breaks to avoid it overheating and snapping. Got it out with patience.

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Snubber came off too.
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Checked bend on the shifter again and I'm happy with it. Enough space to the dash with a winter glove on and not too far back to be uncomfortable. You really can't believe the throw on this thing when you see it without the boot on.

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Stripped it and hit it and shifter boot bracket with self-etching primer.

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Paint and clear goat it tomorrow.

Adjusted the parking brake to get it closer to a middle throw to get a better gut feel that it is fully engaged.

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This thing is in bad need of a deep clean...

—-

Confirmed there are 2 'ears' on the clockspring so I'm hoping I can re-clock it after the alignment.

Keeping it drivable until the alignment so I'm not messing with too much this week other than the shifter and some cosmetics.

Leaning towards OEM shifter handle again but still looking for options. I'm not in a rush.

Likely going Bestop Replace-A-Top in black sail cloth. Want to do a once-over of the OEM frame before I go Replace-A-Top.
 
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Shifter & boot holder got a flat black and matte gloss clear coat.

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I knew the hard top holder would come in handy this winter...

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I cut open a box and leaned it against the box with the new muffler in it (new Banks to go in when I have time to replace the rusting muffler). Should have put down a larger box at the base...

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Should wear off with how much I'm rolling around under this thing. Otherwise, it's just a mart of the Jeep... Floor paint is in rough condition as it is. I'm not trying to make it worse - but I guess my poor prep isn't helping. o_O

Shifter goes in tomorrow evening. Off to the stealership Thursday after work for alignment on Friday. Got family coming this weekend so that should wrap up progress until next week...
 
Ordered an OEM Mopar stock replacement shifter knob & insert. Got it at $46.50 shipped and couldn't justify the extra for a Speed Dawg at $75+. Plus, I like the feel and look of the OEM shifter knob.

I won't put it on until I have the boot ready to go back in. I only want to put this knob back on once as they clearly are easy to damage when removing...
 
I took these pictures of this tool today because I couldn't for the life of me figure out what the heck I had it for. I know I used it, I know I needed it. But for WHAT?!?! Could not remember.

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(Paint can for scale)

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I planned to post it here and ask for help to jog my memory.

...

Well just taking those picture and thinking about it for the millionth time - it finally came to me:

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It's one of those 'it'll come to me at a some time' moments....

—-

Just one of those many things I'm finding as I clear up the garage and put away or toss random parts, pieces, & tools now that I'm at the "driving" phase of the build.

It's been 2+ years so I've got to excuse my memory when I don't recall and DO NOT throw out unless I know what it is and will never be needed again (mostly cut or damaged parts & hardware from along the journey).
 
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Not a ton of time today to wrench but I got the shifter install. Looking good all painted up.

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Realized I'm going to have the fish the hand throttle all the way out in order to get it through the new boot. Hadn't dawned on me yet. Just another step in the install.

I know I said before but the shifter really makes me say it again — This thing is dirty and I really need to clean it...
 
Dropped off Homer for an alignment at the local stealership. We'll see how they do... I'm uncomfortable leaving him off with anyone - let alone a stealership. But we don't have many shops around that modifies Jeeps & trucks and this stealership sells modified new Jeeps...

So they have to know what they're doing on an adjustable lift alignment.... right!?!?! 😬
 
Picked up Homer form the stealership Friday and he is a completely different driving experience. Planted, controllable, and - most importantly, predictable.

Ran $411 but that was a little less than the $500+ I was expecting at stealership labor rates, so I'd gladly pay it again after a suspension install.

He drove comfortably on I-95 at 75+ mph cruising speed.

I'm still feeling out the gearing but I suspect he'll need a re-gear... (Adds that to the very long project list)
 
Stealership couldn't get the steering wheel straight because they ran out of threads on the drag link. Still tracks straight with the wheel about 1/4-turn to the left.

I believe this all ties in with my issue on the turn signal cancellation.

The steering box/column must have been turned at some point after I removed the steering wheel so when I re-installed the steering wheel, it is clocked incorrectly. I'm hoping I can just dial back in the center of the column and then R&R the steering wheel straight again. Should (in theory) resolve the turn signal cancellation issue and the off-center wheel.
 
I started playing with SketchUp to plan out my re-arranging the garage and a new workbench. I used it before but just got frustrated trying to use it again (too different from other traditional CAD softwares).

I've used AutoDesk Inventor in High School and Solidworks in college & earlier in my career. So I looked for alternatives and found that Fusion360 has the free home user option. Hadn't found that before. Now I have the CAD drawing bug.

As mentioned, I plan to add a Ram Mount phone holder. So I put together this first drawing. Still need to update the dimensions while sitting in the Jeep.

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Holes to mount the Ram Mount is accurate from their website. I included the the holes along the bend lines to make the bends easier to keep straight (I'll be using a vise, not a brake). I will then tack/weld the gaps to add strength.

After this, I had been worried the shifter boot bracket was flimsy and would eventually break. So I had thought before to draw it up in CAD. Then chatting with @chili_pepper on the What did you do to your TJ today? thread, I put this draft together in an hour while watching TV.

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I still need to print it off at 1:1 ratio and compare it to the OEM bracket. I drafted it flat for getting it produced so I estimated the dimensions for some of the bent sections. I don't need it but I'll include it in the Send-Cut-Send order with the phone mount bracket. I've only heard good things about Send-Cut-Send. Haven't used them yet.

I enjoy the SuperFastMatt YT channel. His latest projects is a lifted Viper. Fun videos all us garage mechanics can enjoy - with a lot of actual engineering in his projects, too.
 
After these quick CAD projects to orient me to Fusion360 (and I haven't done CAD in 10+ years), I was ready to jump onto the original purpose. Drawing up my garage and planning a new work bench.

I'm planning for a simple 2x4 & 3/4" plywood design.

Build thread for the work bench will be here:

Work Bench & Garage Version 2

Initial design:

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400$ for an alignment?

$170 for the (standard) alignment pricing + the rest of the pricing to dial in the control arms and pinion. They ended up moving the front axle about an inch forward for the springs after the alignment and to get the springs less arched. Didn't mention a major change for the rear.
 
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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator