X2, I forgot to ask him that. If there's no tach needle movement while cranking the engine that's a good sign the crankshaft position sensor is bad.When you crank the engine does the RPM gauge show movement?
-Mac
It's more common for the crankshaft position sensor to fail. Avoid store brands and if you have the 4.0 engine make sure to get one to match your transmission type, automatic or manual.
When you crank the engine does the RPM gauge show movement?
-Mac
Delphi, NTK, Mopar, or Standard Motor Products would all be fine. Personally I'd go for Mopar first followed by NTK as my first two choices. Again make sure it matches your transmission choice.I've got both ( crank and cam, both brands) in my cart at Rock Auto, Delphi and NKS(?) I'll be ordering whichever is recommended.
Matkal:
I don't know how helpful this is without a DRB III or oscilloscope at your disposal, but the Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures Manual lists possible causes and diagnostic tests for each code. There is a 2002 manual in the references section here, and it should be the same as your 2004 (they both use the JTEC+ PCM). You can find it here. One of your codes is on pdf page 131 and the other is on pdf page 191. Here are the official descriptions and set conditions for those codes:
Reading that information, I would start with P0340 because P1391 would trigger only after loss of signal on two consecutive trips. That means that you had an intermittent problem for a while. And then the P0340 completely stopped the engine. So, my initial theory would be that you had a crank sensor signal issue that started as intermittent and then failed completely.
- P0340 is "No cam signal at PCM" and the set description is "At least 5 seconds have elapsed with Crankshaft Position Sensor signals present but no Camshaft Position Sensor signal."
- P1391 is "Intermittent loss of CMP or CKP" and the set description is "When the failure counter reaches 20 for 2 consecutive trips."
Hope that helps!
It's worth checking the wiring on the pigtail of both the crank & cam sensors. That insulation tends to pull back and for some reason the wires are always twisted there and you can easily have a short at the sensor.
Did you check to see if your tach needle is rising up while cranking the engine?
Did you check to see if your tach needle is rising up while cranking the engine?
Tach doesn’t show RPM so that points to the crank sensor which I replaced about 8000 miles ago with the Mopar unit
I'd inspect its wiring but I'd still be suspicious that the Mopar simply failed prematurely. Or may be it was a counterfeit "Mopar"?Tach doesn’t show RPM so that points to the crank sensor which I replaced about 8000 miles ago with the Mopar unit
Or may be it was a counterfeit "Mopar"?
I'd inspect its wiring but I'd still be suspicious that the Mopar simply failed prematurely. Or may be it was a counterfeit "Mopar"?
I’m definitely going to inspect the wiring. Is there a source for the connector in case I need one?