Hello I'm new to the forums and jeep ownership I appreciate any advice you guys have that being said i have my heart set on 33s I'm really trying to avoid a 4 inch lift and all the headaches that come with it I live in Florida and don't do any crazy rock crawling it's mostly mud and sand so my plan is a 2.5 inch lift and metalcloak flares i would also consider a 1 inch body lift but I'm a bit weary of it it I've read bad things about body lifts any thought or suggestions are welcomed I appreciate it
Can I fit 33s?
- Thread starter floridaman
- Start date
A properly designed body lift is far nicer and less expensive than a set of ugly fenders.
https://blackmagicbrakes.com/ols/pr...its-97-06-tj-and-tj-unlimited-all-trim-levels
Check out this thread. Has worked well for many of us. 2.5in lift, 1in body, 17x33
Edit: with thread link https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/a-recipe-for-an-affordable-but-quality-2-5-lift.41687/
11/4 body lift, and if you like Metalcloak fenders go for it.
Honestly I would do 2 1/2 springs and a 1 1/4 BMB body lift.
Metalcloak fenders provide almost the equivalent clearance of chopping back the factory fenders toward the hood. This translates into about an inch upwards that is only usable when the axle is fully articulated. Additionally, reaching a tire into that space is decreased with smaller tires and shorter shock travels.
All of this points toward Metalcloak fenders being of little functional use, especially on smaller builds. They are not a substitute for a spring lift or a body lift. And they are ugly.
I get all that, but some folks like non functional hype and looks.
While others like functional.
Me I like my stock fenders and a crappy RC or it could be Zone, not sure as it came on it when I bought it.
Once I get financially able it will get different springs, shocks and control arms.
All well and good. I deal in utility and functionality. Metalcloak fenders are as functionally ugly as they are functionally dishonest.
Yeah for sure to clarify I'm going for complete functionality this is purely a weekend toy not a daily I was mostly trying to avoid 4 or 5k in upgrades for 33s my main goal is functionality and reliability I do like the way aftermarket fenders looks though It already out performs my brothers gx completely bone stock I was mostly just worried about headaches the body lift can cause so I've read
What are these headaches you are reading about? The few insignificant ones I can think of pale in comparison to replacing the fenders.
If you're just after looks, I'd suggest this route:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/a-recipe-for-an-affordable-but-quality-2-5-lift.41687/
Then add a 1.25" body lift. You'll be at 3.75" of lift which should be fine for 33s.
There should be none as long as it's a 1.25" body lift and nothing beyond that.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/a-recipe-for-an-affordable-but-quality-2-5-lift.41687/
Then add a 1.25" body lift. You'll be at 3.75" of lift which should be fine for 33s.
There should be none as long as it's a 1.25" body lift and nothing beyond that.
After looking at your profile, honestly you would money ahead doing the Zone 4 1/4 lift and regear for the 4 cylinder under the hood.
Ok from what you guys said i may just go with this kit instead https://dpgoffroad.com/product/old-man-emu-ultimate-tj-lj-wrangler-kit/
I do plan on upgrading my front and rear axles and I'll re gear when I do that just gonna drive it til something breaks and upgrade when that time comes
I do plan on upgrading my front and rear axles and I'll re gear when I do that just gonna drive it til something breaks and upgrade when that time comes
That will cost you ~$1k more than you need to spend. Check the thread I posted about earlier and get the body lift from Blain https://blackmagicbrakes.com/ols/pr...its-97-06-tj-and-tj-unlimited-all-trim-levels
Or atleast one that’s aluminum like MORE and not poly.
You also don’t *usually* need new track bars with 2.5 lift.
No. Dirk does not believe in well designed components.
The included JKS body lift is incorrectly designed. It is a soft material and will not allow the body mount bolts to ever be properly tightened. It is known to allow the rear crossmember bolts to punch through the tub. All the while transmitting vibrations into the body. See mine from when I had one. You can even see how the JKS allowed the body to shift before I replaced it with a proper body lift.
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You will need a tcase linkage relo bracket or cable shifter,a spacer for the steering shaft support bearing,redrill and relocate the fan shroud,undo the gas filler so it doesn't break and then adjust/retighten.possibly reposition breathers and wires. None of those are difficult to do.if you have a manual you may have shifter interference with the center console.
The awesome thing about the body lift is you can then raise the gas tank and do a tummy tuck in the future. Also makes it so much easier to work on the trans or exhaust.
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MortarJesus
New Member
Just wondering about the “functionally dishonest” statement. Is Metalcloak a shitty company?
Yes they are a shitty company.
Metalcloak lies to their customers with deceptive and misleading problems of their own creation and then they offer solutions to their invented problems. The fenders do not do what they claim. Their control arm bushings are a design failure backed by false claims of ride quality improvements. Their track bars directly contradict their control arm claims with the existence of rod ends. Their use of rod ends on the front track bar was long ago shown to be inappropriate decades ago by Rubicon Express. Their long arm is a copy of the Rough Country long arm and everything wrong with it. Their Lock'n' Load is a solution to a problem that RC solved long ago with bonded rubber bushings. Their springs create limits to suspension travel through intentional coil bind.
Where Metalcloak is successful is in creating a cult of gullible uninformed customers who believe anything they are told.
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