My time of luck has come, I had just gotten my jeep up and running again from putting in the rebuilt 4.0, driving perfect, I was at the car wash and this guy pulled up and started talking to me about my jeep and how his brother had one. He also said his brother gave him this upgraded "over the knuckle" steering that he had taken off his own rig and seen if I had wanted it. Yup, he literally just gave it to me for free, he said "please take it it's just been sitting in my car for a while." At first I thought it was some zj steering or something until I opened his door and saw it. Definitely bigger, he said ill just need some hardware and ill be good to go. Can anyone identify this? Its got heim joints and I think it may be some sort of 1-ton steering.
Can someone help me identify this steering?
- Thread starter D M
- Start date
Assuming that is an “upgrade” is a bit of a fallacy. For a stock axle it’s nothing but a bunch of problems waiting to happen.
Not sure what brand it is, but it’s a crossover steering system, and I’m not shocked he gave it away for free.
As previously mentioned, that thing will cause nothing but issues.
Not sure what brand it is, but it’s a crossover steering system, and I’m not shocked he gave it away for free.
As previously mentioned, that thing will cause nothing but issues.
I highly suggest reading this thread:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/what-is-the-best-steering-for-my-jeep-wrangler-tj.2956/
Notably the part about crossover steering.
Just trying to help you avoid a mistake.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/what-is-the-best-steering-for-my-jeep-wrangler-tj.2956/
Notably the part about crossover steering.
Just trying to help you avoid a mistake.
Since I dont know and would like to, is there a somewhat short explanation of how crossover steering screws up geometry?
Right off the bat the track bar and drag link angle will not be in sync , and that's bad news for bumpsteer .
Heim joints don't really hold up/perform as well on the horizontal (laid somewhat flat and moving up and down ) as they do on the vertical , which is more the design for them .
That system puts the tie rod end wheel to wheel , stock puts it at 2/3rds or so of the drag link , so the drag link can't push as the suspension moves as it is is counter pushed by the track bar. That negates bump steer.
The track bar is non adjustable , so that has inherent limitations
A coil spring/track bar front end is sensitive to linkage geometry , change at your peril.
A zj tie rod is a simpler upgrade, and suprised me with Moog ends how it made mine drive .
Heim joints don't really hold up/perform as well on the horizontal (laid somewhat flat and moving up and down ) as they do on the vertical , which is more the design for them .
That system puts the tie rod end wheel to wheel , stock puts it at 2/3rds or so of the drag link , so the drag link can't push as the suspension moves as it is is counter pushed by the track bar. That negates bump steer.
The track bar is non adjustable , so that has inherent limitations
A coil spring/track bar front end is sensitive to linkage geometry , change at your peril.
A zj tie rod is a simpler upgrade, and suprised me with Moog ends how it made mine drive .
That crossover puts the draglink connection above the top of the steering arm. The factory goes under the steering arm. That puts the draglink and track bar out of synch and can induce bump steer.
The other downside is the knuckle to knuckle connection which aids DW. Or put another way, is very DW friendly.
JK is a knuckle to knuckle TR. would there be worthwhile benefit to try and convert to a Y link?
in my case the DL and TB are not out of sync. is the caused offset the only issue?.
Not worth the effort since you can mitigate the DW with stronger and more DW resistant parts. Better trackbar, hydro assist, and keep the tires balanced.
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