Can't decide on suspension: Savvy mid-arm vs. Savvy short-arm vs. Clayton long arm

4speedhandler

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 19, 2016
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so some of you may have seen my previous posts on assorted drivetrain and suspension tech and i apologize if you feel i am wasting your time. I have over the past few months had some serious revelations as far as money, realistic expectations and what i really need.
Here is what i have so far:
Ruff stuff full float 9" 4.88's 35spline chromo shafts ARB and disk brakes
ford hp 44 4.88's 30spline chromo shafts ARB
Beadlocks
adjustable front and rear track bars

a body lift will be purchased soon.

Deep down i still want the 37's that i originally dreamed of but have accepted that 35's are the biggest tire logistically feasible and as such i got the 4.88's.


now that we have all the BS out of the way i have reached the point in parts collection for the build that i need to pick suspension components. As of now the options seem to be:
-Savvy 4" short arm
-savvy 4" mid arm
-Clayton long arm 3link/4 link

i know a majority of the people here seem to favor savvy or currie but i would love to hear the actual science behind the why/how of different kits as well as what people currently have that works well for 35's.

side note, im planning tnt fab highline fenders in the budget if that influences anything.
 
Do you climb a lot of steep ledges? What kind of terrain do you wheel on? That will tell us mid arm vs short as far as savvy is concerned.

so i havent had a ton of ability to wheel as i've broken the stock dana 30 and 35 each a few times so i've been taking it easy until such time i can get the jeep built right to last long term without needing massive upgrades. my goal is to do it right once and not look back.
A lot of the stuff i have done and attempted has been more aggressive woods trails and long abandoned mining roads as that is what is local. However, if i can build the jeep capable enough my goals are to travel Arizona, California, Utah and Colorado and hit the hardest trails i can with my buddy who has a pretty solidly built tj and the cahones to wheel anything.
 
Clayton might be marginally better in some areas than a bolt on long arm. But it is still a radius arm up front.
you missed the part where i was looking at their 3 link front 4 link rear and not their radius arm kits.
 
I would recommend savvy short arm. For your uses and the ease of setting it up/adjusting plus knowing the build quality and joints will last you 20+ years with little upkeep. Double adjustable control arms will make your life super easy and I promise you’ll fall in love with Johnny joints. Get some good quality tuned resi fox shocks or Rancho 5000x and you’ll be set to wheel with 35s. Super 35 and relax :)
 
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Following as I’m working through similar decisions. Will say that after reading every thread I could find here and other forums I have pretty much decided it will not be long arm which is funny because when I first got bitten by the ’lift’ bug years ago every TJ owners dream was long arm.

Can I ask what made you decide no to 37s. TJ wheelbase?
 
you missed the part where i was looking at their 3 link front 4 link rear and not their radius arm kits.

Start studying up on why the mount locations matter and why the arm length is just the result of where the mounts end up.
 
Following as I’m working through similar decisions. Will say that after reading every thread I could find here and other forums I have pretty much decided it will not be long arm which is funny because when I first got bitten by the ’lift’ bug years ago every TJ owners dream was long arm.

Can I ask what made you decide no to 37s. TJ wheelbase?
the dream is 37's definitely after a stretch though which is why i decided on 35's because stock wheelbase will be here for a long while.

@BuildBreakRepeat already solved the 35 problem with the 9" i have but thanks for the input on the short arm that will be in my decision making for sure.

@jjvw the more i read on that topic the more confused i get and the less i feel like i know. any knowledge, help or resources would be much appreciated.

I definitely still consider myself a noob no matter how much i read and study as a lot of this seems to be subjective though there is a lot that is truly by the numbers. Someone help me interpret the numbers.

my problem now seems to be that i dont know what i dont know.
 
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If you are leaning heavily towards changing the arm lengths then you need to understand what the instant center is and why it's position in space matters.
 
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If you are leaning heavily towards changing the arm lengths then you need to understand what the instant center is and why it's position in space matters.
from a basic understanding of physics it makes sense but its hard to wrap my head around it is there a resource you would recommend that can break it down to a simpler level?
 
There is a pretty decent thread here from 2 years ago about long arms and geometry.
 
from a basic understanding of physics it makes sense but its hard to wrap my head around it is there a resource you would recommend that can break it down to a simpler level?
Correction in the geometry of the savvy mid arms (can’t speak for other kits) provide better stability in hill climbing and preventing roll over. If you’re not seeing that terrain often, the savvy short arm (aluminum double adjustable) will be perfect in setting up a great working suspension.
 
Sounds like Savvy's mid-arm should be on your short list together with Savvy's short arm in second place. I unhappily ran a long arm previously, now run a Currie short arm, and love it. I had a chance to drive a Savvy mid-arm at Blaine's. While it was only around the locsl hills with one climb, it was definitely eye opening. Wow. I don't know that I'll ever be able to have one installed but the desire for my own mid-arm is continuous. It made a huge impression on me.
 
I would recommend savvy short arm. For your uses and the ease of setting it up/adjusting plus knowing the build quality and joints will last you 20+ years with little upkeep. Double adjustable control arms will make your life super easy and I promise you’ll fall in love with Johnny joints. Get some good quality tuned resi fox shocks or Rancho 5000x and you’ll be set to wheel with 35s. Super 35 and relax :)
X2 that’s exactly what I have
 
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Sounds like Savvy's mid-arm should be on your short list together with Savvy's short arm in second place. I unhappily ran a long arm previously, now run a Currie short arm, and love it. I had a chance to drive a Savvy mid-arm at Blaine's. While it was only around the locsl hills with one climb, it was definitely eye opening. Wow. I don't know that I'll ever be able to have one installed but the desire for my own mid-arm is continuous. It made a huge impression on me.
I can’t wait until you pull the trigger on mid arms
 
I can’t wait until you pull the trigger on mid arms
Me too but being mostly retired now it's a financial issue, nothing else. Fortunately my present rig doesn't work too bad for me on the trails I limit it to. The 'other' trails are never far from mind though.
 
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Me too but being mostly retired now it's a financial issue, nothing else. Fortunately my present rig doesn't work too bad for me on the trails I limit it to. The 'other' trails are never far from mind though.
I understand, stay within your budget and needs. The more I do the more addicted I get to improvement however, so I get the appeal.
 
so it sounds like im going over the books to see if i can make a savvy mid arm happen. does anybody know the ability to order the kit minus a part? i already have the antirock. as well as their ability to make trusses/brackets for non-stock axles?
 
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so it sounds like im going over the books to see if i can make a savvy mid arm happen. does anybody know the ability to order the kit minus a part? i already have the antirock. as well as their ability to make trusses/brackets for non-stock axles?
Give them a call. Personally I went with the mid arm links and brackets - and got Currie springs.