Can't get wheel adapter off

My spacers came with red lock tite, so I’m assuming they recommend it. So, I used the loctite with them. If I have to apply a little heat to unlock it, then so be it.
 
I have run spacers multiple times over the years and have never used a thread locker. Nor have I ever had a spacer nut come loose, the same way I have never had a lug nut come loose.

That's because your junk is always up on jack stands. Wheels on, wheels off. Wheels on, wheels off. Sounds like Mr. Miagi

7c9txt.webp
 
Just some info, Permatex makes an Orange Threadlocker. Advertised as "the strength of Red Threadlocker with the removability of Blue Threadlocker."

I have some but haven't used it on anything yet nor have I ever used threadlocker on wheel studs.

Orange Threadlocker

View attachment 402660

Sounds cool but to be honest I'm a bit mystified how removability wouldn't be directly tied to strength. I'll have to read up on that.
 
Sounds cool but to be honest I'm a bit mystified how removability wouldn't be directly tied to strength. I'll have to read up on that.

I’m not sure. I got it to try on the bolts of my Savvy engine skid that mates to the OEM transfer skid. The bolts had loosened up, I retightened them, then found the orange thread locker but they never loosened up again (until I removed them for the UCF transfer skid installation) so I never got around to using it.
 
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I thought the same thing until I lost a wheel. Now I use red locktite

I lost a wheel without wheel spacers. I think it just means we didn’t get a lug nut torqued down. Human error. It means the same thing as far as spacers. There is no more proclivity for a spacer nut to come loose than a lug nut.
 
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I read through both of those installation procedures and I do not see where it says "NO LOCTITE".

This is not really a helpful distinction since the end result is the same.

The installation procedures did not say use loctite. “Maybe I should put some super glue on them.” 🤨 “I don’t know, I think beer would be better.” 🍻
 
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That's definitely a unique perspective. I personally believe that properly torqued, they won't come loose (but should be checked at rotation time), and threadlock may have come along as a bandaid for common poor maintenance practice.

Buuuuut, my spidertrax spacers actually came with little tubes of the red stuff, and I used it without giving much thought to it. Not sure it's the same formulation as the permatex stuff because I can still break it loose with a 24" breaker bar.

So basically I agree with you in theory but I didn't practice what we're preaching.

How is it a unique perspective if the first two sites I looked up install instructions on do not mention loctite of any snow cone 🍧 color?

Isn’t it more likely that this is a lawyer who suggested the company send out little packets of red stuff just in case someone was negligent and decided to blame the wheel spacer?

Yes, I have wheel spacers on a rig. No, one has never come loose. We also add anti seize between the spacer and the rotor mounting face so they don’t rust together. Never had a problem.
 
Do you also use Loctite on your wheels?
No, but I do use 271, 262, 272, or equivalent on the wheel spacer lug nuts. Typically, we are not using extra long wheel studs in our shorter spacers like the 1" versions that we commonly use. The lug nuts in those are pretty short and I'm not always impressed with the quality. I do it for the same reason that I use it on my dually front wheel spacers which is I'm taking half of the lug nuts out of the chance for a problem equation.

I also do it for the same reason my two piece rotor fasteners that hold the hat to the rotor get a red high strength. I've never had one separate, I'd rather not find out that I can't get by without using it the hard way. That is an expensive day even if I only tear up the rotor and hat.
 
How is it a unique perspective if the first two sites I looked up install instructions on do not mention loctite of any snow cone 🍧 color?

Isn’t it more likely that this is a lawyer who suggested the company send out little packets of red stuff just in case someone was negligent and decided to blame the wheel spacer?

Yes, I have wheel spacers on a rig. No, one has never come loose. We also add anti seize between the spacer and the rotor mounting face so they don’t rust together. Never had a problem.

Depends on perspective and understanding. I don't use it on carrier bearing cap bolts, I do on the ring gear bolts. I don't use it on flywheel to crank bolts because those are place bolts. I will use it on torque converter to flex plates because I can see it came that way from the factory.

I don't use it on lug nuts that hold the wheel on, I do use it on spacer lug nuts. I use blue on drive shaft CV bolts, I don't use it on pinion cap u-bolts but I do on strap bolts at the pinion. I use red on caliper saddle to knuckle connections, I don't use it on caliper to guide pin bolts.

I use some sort of thread locker where a loose fastener has the potential to really make life difficult and in the case of lug nuts with spacers, I want to take 1/2 of the potential out of the equation.
 
How is it a unique perspective if the first two sites I looked up install instructions on do not mention loctite of any snow cone 🍧 color?

Isn’t it more likely that this is a lawyer who suggested the company send out little packets of red stuff just in case someone was negligent and decided to blame the wheel spacer?

Yes, I have wheel spacers on a rig. No, one has never come loose. We also add anti seize between the spacer and the rotor mounting face so they don’t rust together. Never had a problem.

It's unique because if you poll 100 Jeepers on the subject I bet 90 suggest loctite. As usual though, that doesn't mean the 90 are correct.

Lawyers could definitely be a likely source, or at least engineers who have been subpoenaed to testify in a product liability case (I haven't, but I know some who have and no one likes it outside of a select few weirdos who end up making a career of being "expert witnesses").
 
I lost a wheel without wheel spacers. I think it just means we didn’t get a lug nut torqued down. Human error. It means the same thing as far as spacers. There is no more proclivity for a spacer nut to come loose than a lug nut.

I can't see the adapter lug nut, and I would rather not leave that to chance, or human error, as you say. You do you, but I'm putting locktite on my spacer lugnuts.
 
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Depends on perspective and understanding. I don't use it on carrier bearing cap bolts, I do on the ring gear bolts. I don't use it on flywheel to crank bolts because those are place bolts. I will use it on torque converter to flex plates because I can see it came that way from the factory.

I don't use it on lug nuts that hold the wheel on, I do use it on spacer lug nuts. I use blue on drive shaft CV bolts, I don't use it on pinion cap u-bolts but I do on strap bolts at the pinion. I use red on caliper saddle to knuckle connections, I don't use it on caliper to guide pin bolts.

I use some sort of thread locker where a loose fastener has the potential to really make life difficult and in the case of lug nuts with spacers, I want to take 1/2 of the potential out of the equation.

I haven’t been all those places, but that’s a good post to take some notes from.
 
You use lock tite on the spacers because they are not assessable to check them periodically unless you take the wheels off. That's why "I" use lock tite.

We have the wheels off once a month. Maybe that’s an important distinction.
 
What is the correct torque for lugnuts with Loctite? Or anti-seize? I've heard that Loctite recommends reducing applied torque by 20% from dry values, but I can't find that in their FAQ or anywhere official.

So should it be about 95 ft. lbs. * 0.8 = 76 ft lbs?
 
What is the correct torque for lugnuts with Loctite? Or anti-seize? I've heard that Loctite recommends reducing applied torque by 20% from dry values, but I can't find that in their FAQ or anywhere official.

So should it be about 95 ft. lbs. * 0.8 = 76 ft lbs?

The key is the "dry" value. Typically a dry value is based on a black oxide or similar non plated fastener. Adding the plating typically acts similar to a lubricated fastener. You have to dig into the actual spec and adapt accordingly.