Caster adjustments

Rubicon John

Rubicon John

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 12, 2020
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Location
Atlanta
Do you all recommend control arm adjustments or caster cam bolts to get my caster where I want it?

I’m right around 4 degrees and would like to increase that quite a bit. I don’t have death wobble but my steering is way too twitchy at higher speeds.

if you recommend control arm adjustments, which way do I need to rotate my front axle? Thanks in advance.
 
I have those. I can do that. Are the cam bolts even worth it?

I also have to check my driveshaft angle. I’m guessing it should point at the transfer case ideally.
 
Lowers to make sure your bumpstops are centered and uppers to change your pinion & caster. Keep adding caster until you get it where you want or start getting driveline vibrations.
 
LJGreg said:
Lowers to make sure your bumpstops are centered and uppers to change your pinion & caster. Keep adding caster until you get it where you want or start getting driveline vibrations.
Click to expand...

You want both uppers and lowers to do both of those at the same time.
 
Rubicon John said:
... I also have to check my driveshaft angle. I’m guessing it should point at the transfer case ideally.
Click to expand...

24126925362_4b7d18dea4.jpg
 
and here's a perfect example of why a DA CA is superior.

how much lift? why's it only holding at 4* now? @ 3.5" of lift i was able to maintain a 6/6 split up front with no noticeable effects.

i thought i saw the confirmation of adjustable lowers, yes?
1 turn out at a time and take it for a ride. once you find the spot be sure the bumps still contact well.

i constantly see information that a larger wheel requires less castor? but i read different sources that say the contrary, that a larger wheel requires more castor............................whats the real deal here?
 
someguysjeep said:
and here's a perfect example of why a DA CA is superior.

how much lift? why's it only holding at 4* now? @ 3.5" of lift i was able to maintain a 6/6 split up front with no noticeable effects.

i thought i saw the confirmation of adjustable lowers, yes?
1 turn out at a time and take it for a ride. once you find the spot be sure the bumps still contact well.

i constantly see information that a larger wheel requires less castor? but i read different sources that say the contrary, that a larger wheel requires more castor............................whats the real deal here?
Click to expand...
About 4” of lift. I just installed the arms and the preliminary caster sweep showed about 4* so I just have to make an adjustment. I just wanted to verify which way I need to adjust the pinion to get more caster.

Luckily I have a Hunter alignment rack and a lift so these adjustments should be a breeze.
 
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you can align it with 2 sticks and a tape measure at home too.
lift may help but your only adjusting 1 arm then replacing it b4 touching another so things shouldn't move around a lot, a pinch bar will really help ya here.
 
You want to shorten the upper arms to increase castor. Do this until you start to get a driveline vibe.
Now re-check that the bumpstops are still in alignment with spring perch. If yes, back off uppers a half turn to eliminate vibe. If no, adjust lowers to get good bumpstop alignment.
While doing this you want to be setting the toe angle. You should have aprox 1/8" difference from the front of the tire to the rear of the tire. The front should be 1/8" less. Again, this is measured from the front of the tire to the rear of the tire.
Be sure tires inflated to between 26-28 psi.
 
Lower pinon = increased caster

Understand that the caster measurement is irrelevant, unless you feel the need to assign a number to whatever you end up with. It is what it is. The pinon angle takes precedence.
 
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