Cheetokps learning as I go build thread

[Cheetokps]

That caster is a tad low for 33's, it's time for adjustable front control arms. As above, how quickly they're needed depends on how well your Jeep is tracking on the highway and if you have sufficient steering return to center after completing a turn.

My return to center isn't that good but I'm not sure how much of that came from adjusting my steering box vs how much is from the arms. I'm considering just getting adjustable arms up front, although I probably need new arms all around because of how bad my bushings are so I might end up buying a whole set

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Be wary of adjusting the steering box, that Allen head bolt is not there to tighten the steering. https://www.freeasestudyguides.com/steering-gear-adjustment.html

 

[Cheetokps]

Be wary of adjusting the steering box, that Allen head bolt is not there to tighten the steering. https://www.freeasestudyguides.com/steering-gear-adjustment.html

Yeah I read a lot of warnings, I only adjusted it like a half turn total and I figured the box was probably on it's way out anyway so it can't hurt to try

 

[bobthetj03]

Why? If you aren't running them at both ends you're just wasting a flex joint.

My thinking was aimed at tier 1 arms being a good recipe for ripping control arm brackets from the frame.

 

[mrblaine]

My thinking was aimed at tier 1 arms being a good recipe for ripping control arm brackets from the frame.

Don't they run clevite bushings? That and a flex joint on one end wouldn't alleviate the stress from an overly stiff joint since the axle angle at the frame is exactly the same no matter what joint is in the other end.

 

[bobthetj03]

Don't they run clevite bushings? That and a flex joint on one end wouldn't alleviate the stress from an overly stiff joint since the axle angle at the frame is exactly the same no matter what joint is in the other end.

Good to know. OP, I resend my suggestion. I never did fully understand why companies like Core and Rokmen offered them in that config if there is no benefit, other than cost savings.

 

[mrblaine]

Good to know. OP, I resend my suggestion. I never did fully understand why companies like Core and Rokmen offered them in that config if there is no benefit, other than cost savings.

I know why Rokmen does. They actually polled the folks on JF with options giving the benefits of each, mistakenly defined but they did so nonetheless. Their fucked up logic was that the clevite delivered a nice ride and the JJ handled the misalignment so everyone voted for that. That's all fine and dandy but track bars pull the axle sideways, rotational misalignment doesn't handle that so you need a clevite, flex joint, or similar or you stress the mounts.

 

[Cheetokps]

Just finished up installing my new remanufactured steering gear box. Install went easy, I followed Stu Olson’s guide very closely. I made sure to bleed the system very well too.

I just took it for a drive and my steering was still just as loose, if not worse. I would think that the “adjustment” nut would be completely tuned it from the factory. Could my lower steering shaft also be where the slop is coming from?

My steering wheel is also no longer centered somehow, not sure that happened. Should be an easy adjustment however

 

[Cheetokps]

That caster is a tad low for 33's, it's time for adjustable front control arms. As above, how quickly they're needed depends on how well your Jeep is tracking on the highway and if you have sufficient steering return to center after completing a turn.

I was researching my control arm options again, would cam bolts be a good idea/enough to fix my caster? I would like adjustable arms but all new stock arms at $190 is way cheaper

 

[Cheetokps]

Replaced my fan clutch last night, and the difference in fan noise is so much better than I could have even hoped for. I had gotten used to how loud it was and kept seeing people saying how loud they were so I didn’t think anything was wrong until recently. Wish I took a better video before changing it but you can kind of tell the difference based on this old video

 

[Cheetokps]

Found this today when checking my tire pressure. Assuming it’s not safe to ignore, so I’m going to swap it with my spare because it should be good in an emergency. I was planning on rotating my spare in when doing tire rotations but I guess I can’t do that now.

I’ve only had these tires for about a month, really wishing I bought the warranty

 

[Vasq]

Where did you buy them from? that looks.. defective.

 

[Cheetokps]

Where did you buy them from? that looks.. defective.

Discount tire. And yeah I am very confused how it happened, the little rubber edge right next to it is untouched so I couldn’t have hit a curb or anything. The 20 day window to add on road protection ended on June 15 for me but I’m wondering if they’ll still add it on if I call now

 

[Cheetokps]

Installed a sound ordinance b-8pdt powered subwoofer under my rear seat as well as some new Polk 5.25” speakers for my sound bar. Tried to move my old speakers to the front but they were still making a lot of static so I went back to my old cheap 4x6 speakers.

(I’ll cut the wires to length eventually I’m just leaving them to make sure I like how it’s set up)

Also came with a remote bass adjustment knob I put under my cigarette lighter.

Sound is pretty great, not window shaking bass but enough that it sounds good and I can feel it in my seat which is exactly what I wanted. Took me a while to figure out how to adjust everything to get it to sound good, but I think I have it set where I like it now

 

[Cheetokps]

Finally grinder down my rocker rust, used some rust converter and paint, and installed plastic rugged ridge Diamond plate rocker guards. I wanted to get real rock sliders but these were $60 compared to $400+ and I don’t really have a need for real sliders so I figured I’d give them a shot. Definitely beats looking at the rust

I also ran a line of black silicone along the top to try and hide the gap and prevent water from entering, as well as a lot of fluid film on the area behind it

Before:

After:

 

[Cheetokps]

Got around to replacing my control arms, decided to stick with stock replacements for now because they were under $200 and I couldn’t find any good adjustable control arms under $800. Did have to cut through one of my lower arms with a sawzall as the bolt was not moving, all the force from my impact was being absorbed by the rubber it felt like.

Also had a good amount of trouble getting the front upper bushings out of the axle, but I made it work. Luckily my neighbor had a larger air compressor than my pancake one as well as an air chisel which helped me pop it out. The right is what remains of the difficult one.

 

[Cheetokps]

Also this week I cleaned out my throttle body and IAC sensor since I saw a thread on it, very easy so figured I’d give it a shot even though I didn’t have issues. Was definitely dirty so glad I did, although I didn’t notice any difference

Before:

After:

Followed @Jerry Bransford ’s advice and sprayed a bunch into the throttle body with the engine idling, then emptied the rest of the can while revving it a little

 

[Cheetokps]

Once again the curse of New England strikes again. I began last week by going out to start my journey of soundproofing. I bought noico 80mil, rollers, and finishing tape as well as a full set of mass-backed cutpile carpet from ACC Carpets. I removed all my seats, carpet, and console to begin but I discovered the rust underneath was worse than I knew (as discussed here).

I didn't want to just cover up the rust, so I started attacking it with my angle grinder and drill with wire wheel brush. Unfortunately once it started flaking off it revealed some holes

So I cut out the rusted area, and bought some sheet metal that I cut to size

Using construction adhesive and sheet metal screws I covered up all the holes, then covered all the bare metal with a coating of brush-on Rustoleum paint (didn't get an after pic).

And on Friday I could finally begin what I started Monday, the sound deadening. I was only able to finish the rear fender wells and cargo area so far since I ran out of time and had to put my seats and the new carpet in to use my car. Eventually I will go back in and finish the entire tub, but it might not be until spring since I am moving back into school in a week.

 

[Cheetokps]

It’s been awhile… I FINALLY had time to finish my sound deadening. I forgot to take pictures but I got a few afterwards:

I did almost everywhere I could think of, way up into the firewall too. Eventually I might do the doors

I wasn’t expecting anything crazy, especially with the soft top, but I was still disappointed. I noticed almost no difference, I measured a 2db decrease on the highway at 75mph, from 81 to 79. I guess I’ll just have to hope it will have been worth it with the hard top on

Maybe in the future I can add 150mil over the top, do the hood and the doors and see if I can get any better. Just the 80mil and mass backed carpet didn’t do much


I was hoping it would allow me to hear better on the highway, so now that it didn’t do much I’m thinking more about adding an amp for my speakers. Although I don’t want to lose fade control, as my rear/sub RCA output on my head unit is being used for my subwoofer

 

[Cheetokps]

Got my new JVC marine head unit and sound ordnance 4 channel amp installed the other day. Still have to play with it to get it to sound how I like (especially with the top down). Still tempted to buy a seperate tweeter for the front, but I’ll save that for the future