Climate Control Fan Issue

[KMarlow11]

Hey guys, looking for some fan speed assistance. So far, I’ve only lost fan speed 3, everything else works. I’ve just installed a new blower motor and blower motor resistor 10 minutes age expecting this to fix my fan speed 3 and it did not. My next step is to replace the whole climate control switch panel. Is this the right next step or am I missing something? Thanks in advance!

 

[Steel City 06]

Sounds like it could be the switch. You could unplug it from the dash and check the continuity at different settings. Refer to the FSM wiring diagrams to see which ones should connect.

Try manually holding the switch in between settings to see if you can get the 3rd fan speed. Probably not, but I’ve had other vehicles where I can get the 3rd setting to work by bridging the switch between 3 and 4.

 

[MountaineerTom]

Does it work if you push the switch in? Mine had melted slightly and I had to change it.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...ew-hvac-fan-speed-switch-or-hvac-panel.22043/

 

[KMarlow11]

Does it work if you push the switch in? Mine had melted slightly and I had to change it.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...ew-hvac-fan-speed-switch-or-hvac-panel.22043/

I just tried this and yes it did work if I pushed in hard but once I let it go it stopped working again. So does this mean the switch is bad?

 

[MountaineerTom]

I just tried this and yes it did work if I pushed in hard but once I let it go it stopped working again. So does this mean the switch is bad?

You’ll probably find it melted a little on the back side.

 

[KMarlow11]

You’ll probably find it melted a little on the back side.

Any idea what caused it to melt? Just taking precautions so I don’t have to do it again

 

[MountaineerTom]

From what I understand, the motor blower is the main culprit. It can cause problems with wiring, connectors, resistor and switches when it start having problems.

@Jerry Bransford knows the technical details.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Briefly the fan motor's windings are insulated by shellac. As the shellac ages it breaks down and the windings begin drawing excessive current through the wiring, switch, and resistor pack. The only fix is to replace the fan motor which isn't a difficult job.

 

[KMarlow11]

Briefly the fan motor's windings are insulated by shellac. As the shellac ages it breaks down and the windings begin drawing excessive current through the wiring, switch, and resistor pack. The only fix is to replace the fan motor which isn't a difficult job.

I heard that the fan motor was the source of most HVAC issues so I did replace that today along with the resistor. Only step left is the switches so that sounds like my issue. Thanks for the help guys!

 

[MountaineerTom]

My motor started squeaking shortly after I bought the Jeep so I replaced it. A couple years later the switch started acting up and I replaced it and the resistor at the same time. I had seen that the switch was slightly melted shortly after I got it, but waited for in to not work properly.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

The electrical engineers in Jeep's HVAC department should all be burned at the stake.

 

[Jodh]

My fan switch started melting and now the fan only works on low. Since the blower switch can't be purchased separately on the 05/06s can you replace the whole unit with one from an earlier model that you can buy replacement switches? Also can anyone recommend an aftermarket replacement blower or should I stick with Mopar?

 

[MountaineerTom]

My fan switch started melting and now the fan only works on low. Since the blower switch can't be purchased separately on the 05/06s can you replace the whole unit with one from an earlier model that you can buy replacement switches? Also can anyone recommend an aftermarket replacement blower or should I stick with Mopar?

I don’t know about the switches, but I’d guess they older ones wouldn’t work with the new jeeps. At least not easily. I may be wrong though.

My replacement blower motor wasn’t MOPAR. I’m not positive, but off the top of my head I’m think it was BWD. I got it from Rock Auto.

 

[Matt888]

So 05’s you cant just buy the switch?

 

[Jodh]

So 05’s you cant just buy the switch?

No you have to buy the whole assembly which according to most of the mopar.com has been discontinued so whatever is out there is probably it. So I figured if I had to buy the whole assembly I was hoping go get one for an older jeep and grab a spare switch for next time.

 

[MutantNinjaTJ]

The correct switch panel for 05 and 06 are hard to find and when you do they are expensive. I think I found one at Morris 4x4 a year ago. Good luck.

 

[TrueTexas]

The electrical engineers in Jeep's HVAC department should all be burned at the stake.

I 100% agree with @Jerry Bransford on the above quote and his comments on the motor shellac melting causing the motor to pull more amps.

That being said the problem is worse than a motor simply going bad. It is akin to an electrical domino effect.

I have spent a ton of time trying to get my primary TJs HVAC system back in running order. So much that I can draw the circuit diagram from memory

I have purchased 2 Mopar OEM blower motors (first was pulling 24 amps on high, thought it was defective and bought another with the same results). I have replaced the resistor and the harness. I have also done the relay mods to bypass high ground side current from going thru the switches and even replaced the positive side relay with a 70 amp relay. All of this and I still have wires that get super hot.

Over the last few days, I have been testing wires by bypassing them with new wires and testing for voltage drop. Turns out the main 12v+ line is dropping 1.25v from fuse 14 in the pdc and the relay. (1.0v drop before green connector). I haven't tested the final legs to the blower because it's a pain to get to but I ran leads outside the Jeep from the relay and the relay ground to one of my extra motors and they remained cool. so I am guessing that this final wires are pretty messed up as well. My math says they are dropping another 3v. to 4v to get me to the 24 amps of current I am currently seeing.

Next step is to replace the positive side wiring and final legs to the blower motor w 10 gauge GXL wire.

TLDR: when the motor goes bad and pulls too much current, that current destroys the undersized wires and you can never fully recover. That is why after the first motor goes bad after 20 years, you will start losing motors every couple of years. I will have replaced every bit of factory wire once I am done. Ton of work but I will feel better knowing all my other work won't go up in smoke because of the stupid HVAC engineers at Chrysler. Thanks for saving a couple of nickels!!!

 

[Matt888]

Mine is only the high speed not working all others do, may wire a completely separate circuit with a toggle switch and relay for summer time heat.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Mine is only the high speed not working all others do, may wire a completely separate circuit with a toggle switch and relay for summer time heat.

When just the high-speed setting works that is a clear sign (usually that is) of a failed resistor pack. The resistor pack provides all of the lower fan speeds, it is bypassed for the high speed setting.

 

[Matt888]

On mine all others work except high speed.