Clunking sound when pressing clutch

[Cheetokps]

I have been experiencing a clunking/rattling noise when I press in the clutch, mostly when shifting from first to second or when in reverse. It seems to get worse in the cold, and I can hear it more when I press it hard. I have tried pressing it with the transmission in neutral, and I do not hear it. Anyone have any ideas what this is? And if it is a big concern or another "jeep noise"

Also my transmission is a nv3550, recently filled with redline mtl

I'm pressing it hard in these videos so it is easier to hear, so it is normally less loud but still noticeable.

Learned how to drive a manual on my jeep when I first got it a few months ago, so hoping I didn't mess anything up too badly

 

[AndyG]

I know it will seem weird but check your rear control arm bolts.

 

[Rubicon88]

Couple things here...

Throw out bearings when getting bad always makes a racket when it's cold out.

Last time your u-joints were done?

The two lowest gears in your tranny are 1st and reverse...
If you've a questionable u-joint when you slam the clutch like that you're abruptly halting the extra torque ...and if you've got an iffy u-joint(s) that will clunk.

That said...are you allowing your RPMS to drop before shifting? It doesn't sound like it in your brief video but I could be wrong.

 

[Fishtaco]

Dump the Redline its too thin!
cant hear a lot over your indicators unless thats the noise? but if it started after MTL change then thats your new problem! MTL though might just exasperate a problem that was already there but not noticed. How much Swarf was on your gearbox drain magnet when you changed the oil?
I had great success with MTL 3 4 5 &6 but it totally fucked my 1st to second change and also reverse!
Sounds nothing like a throw out bearing to me!

 

[Cheetokps]

Couple things here...

Throw out bearings when getting bad always makes a racket when it's cold out.

Last time your u-joints were done?

The two lowest gears in your tranny are 1st and reverse...
If you've a questionable u-joint when you slam the clutch like that you're abruptly halting the extra torque ...and if you've got an iffy u-joint(s) that will clunk.

That said...are you allowing your RPMS to drop before shifting? It doesn't sound like it in your brief video but I could be wrong.

Are you referring to axle or driveshaft u joints, or both? Neither have been done since I bought it and I plan on replacing them soon, I already know my passenger axle u joint is bad since I can move it by hand. In the video I was not letting rpm's drop because I wanted to make the sound more noticeable, but usually I do more than in the video.

 

[Cheetokps]

Dump the Redline its too thin!
cant hear a lot over your indicators unless thats the noise? but if it started after MTL change then thats your new problem! MTL though might just exasperate a problem that was already there but not noticed. How much Swarf was on your gearbox drain magnet when you changed the oil?
I had great success with MTL 3 4 5 &6 but it totally fucked my 1st to second change and also reverse!
Sounds nothing like a throw out bearing to me!

The noise is the rattling noise about halfway through each video. Yeah I was a little disappointed with the redline mtl, it did not shift better after putting it in and maybe even worse. There were a few small bits on the drain magnet but I do not think it was anything to be concerned about. I do not remember if I had this noise before the mtl or not, but I started paying attention to the noises recently

 

[Rubicon88]

Are you referring to axle or driveshaft u joints, or both? Neither have been done since I bought it and I plan on replacing them soon, I already know my passenger axle u joint is bad since I can move it by hand. In the video I was not letting rpm's drop because I wanted to make the sound more noticeable, but usually I do more than in the video.

In this instance the DS.
In particular the rear DS.
When u-joints get really bad they'll clank and bang or rattle just hitting a bump on the road.
Applying torque like that then abruptly lightening the torque load...absolutely could make that sound.

Before going any further I'd replace the u-joints. If you don't know their age it's never a bad time to replace. Use Spicer.


That said I don't understand why people want to drive these things like it's free track time at Laguna Seca.
Treat your equipment with respect and your equipment will last a lot longer.

I'm not scolding you but a legit question on this...

What happens when you shift from 1st-2nd driving it with some care?
Take up to around 2,000 rpm..
Off accelerator....
easy in with clutch.....
let rpm drop to idle speed...
shift to 2nd...
easy out with clutch...
Smoothly into the accelerator...

What happens?

 

[Cheetokps]

In this instance the DS.
In particular the rear DS.
When u-joints get really bad they'll clank and bang or rattle just hitting a bump on the road.
Applying torque like that then abruptly lightening the torque load...absolutely could make that sound.

Before going any further I'd replace the u-joints. If you don't know their age it's never a bad time to replace. Use Spicer.


That said I don't understand why people want to drive these things like it's free track time at Laguna Seca.
Treat your equipment with respect and your equipment will last a lot longer.

I'm not scolding you but a legit question on this...

What happens when you shift from 1st-2nd driving it with some care?
Take up to around 2,000 rpm..
Off accelerator....
easy in with clutch.....
let rpm drop to idle speed...
shift to 2nd...
easy out with clutch...
Smoothly into the accelerator...

What happens?

Yeah I try to be as gentle with it as possible with it, I just had to be hard with it to get a loud enough noise to hear in the video. I’m going to install my lift and then see if I need a cv driveshaft before I replace the u joints, but if I don’t I’ll go ahead and replace them. I’m hoping the u joints fix it, if not I probably broke something when I was first learning how to drive stick a few months ago

 

[Rubicon88]

Yeah I try to be as gentle with it as possible with it, I just had to be hard with it to get a loud enough noise to hear in the video. I’m going to install my lift and then see if I need a cv driveshaft before I replace the u joints, but if I don’t I’ll go ahead and replace them. I’m hoping the u joints fix it, if not I probably broke something when I was first learning how to drive stick a few months ago

I doubt you broke it.

 

[Cheetokps]

So I noticed my transfer case was making a lot of noise when I had my rear axle jacked up and was spinning the wheels by hand and changed direction. I think this is the same noise that I was chasing before. It doesn’t seem like the driveshaft u joints, is something fucked up inside my transfer case? Or is this normal

 

[Winks42]

Dump the Redline its too thin!
cant hear a lot over your indicators unless thats the noise? but if it started after MTL change then thats your new problem! MTL though might just exasperate a problem that was already there but not noticed. How much Swarf was on your gearbox drain magnet when you changed the oil?
I had great success with MTL 3 4 5 &6 but it totally fucked my 1st to second change and also reverse!
Sounds nothing like a throw out bearing to me!

what is with you and thick oil

 

[Jeffseven777]

So I noticed my transfer case was making a lot of noise when I had my rear axle jacked up and was spinning the wheels by hand and changed direction. I think this is the same noise that I was chasing before. It doesn’t seem like the driveshaft u joints, is something fucked up inside my transfer case? Or is this normal
View attachment 255220

Take your Rear and front drive shafts off. put the transfer case in Neutral put trans in Neutral. use a 1 1/4" socket on the front output yoke spin it see if there is some bad noises if not go to the back. this one if you have the slip yoke is tricky but you can put it in 4Hi or Low and use the front yoke to spin the rear output as well if your hearing bad noises probably something wrong.

Chain slack, damages, broken springs, plastic gear pads all kinds of things can be bad. If you have a NP231 is pretty easy to remove and open up.

 

[Jeffseven777]

also removing the drive shafts and letting it run in Neutral or in gear will help figure out if its not the u joints. if you can create the same noise with no drive shafts that will help big time. If no noise with no drive shafts you may have an issue in the ujoints or axles.

 

[Cheetokps]

also removing the drive shafts and letting it run in Neutral or in gear will help figure out if its not the u joints. if you can create the same noise with no drive shafts that will help big time. If no noise with no drive shafts you may have an issue in the ujoints or axles.

I had removed my front and rear driveshafts previously and I think i still noticed it with each removed, however that day it wasn’t doing it much even with both in. It gets worse sometimes, not sure if it’s temperature related or anything I haven’t determined that. I’ll definitely try what you said above when I get a chance and see if I can chase it down