Color matching advice?

Your Jeep is silver. You (or a professional) will never be able to paint just the doors and have it match. Paints with metallics and pearls lay in a direction that will be very obvious if done wrong, and can even produce "tiger striping". If you want it to match, it will have to be blended in all directions by 1/2 a panel or so. Two sides on a Jeep, that's pretty much an entire paint job.

I suggest either painting them black to match the trim, or talk to a professional body shop if they have to match. Maaco doesn't count. ;)
I do glass for a body shop here in St. Louis,our guy did pretty good on my wife’s ps5 2002

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Looks like a good job. If he painted just the doors and didn't blend it out, then he did very well. How does it look in the sun?
They might be the very very bit in the dark side,but for a butt match ,just the doors,it ain’t bad,we did a few test cards first
 
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They might be the very very bit in the dark side,but for a butt match ,just the doors,it ain’t bad,we did a few test cards first
Looks like a really good job from that picture. OP- take it to that shop!

I bet that is an expensive project for a walk-in customer though.

Nice color
 
I'm doing my welded up corner armor now. Wet sanding the 2K clear that PAg mentioned. Paint looks okay if my metal work didn't look like shit I woulda been happy. One of those situations where I say well it's a rock crawler so....
 
Ok so did rattle can paint and 2K epoxy clear. I watched a YouTube video to go 1000, 1500, 2000 then polish. I did all three with a foam block backer and finished with "Nufinish" polish by hand.... It's not shiny though. I can still see the clear coat is kind of crackly. Did that mean I didn't sand it enough? Should I start over with 600 grit and work through the steps again? Or should I stay with 1000 and just push harder? How do you know you sanded enough?
 
Ok so did rattle can paint and 2K epoxy clear. I watched a YouTube video to go 1000, 1500, 2000 then polish. I did all three with a foam block backer and finished with "Nufinish" polish by hand.... It's not shiny though. I can still see the clear coat is kind of crackly. Did that mean I didn't sand it enough? Should I start over with 600 grit and work through the steps again? Or should I stay with 1000 and just push harder? How do you know you sanded enough?
I’m not entirely sure which path to take. I know I had severe orange peel that took quite a bit of wet sanding to fix. My doors still have a slightly different finish up close, but are pretty shiny and the paint is a perfect match. I would say if it’s still crackly to try and wet sand a bit more. Maybe someone with more experience can chime in!

I think the OP would be happy with those results.
Thanks, I was happy!
 
Planning on color matching some green half doors What should I do for prep before paint? Do I sand to bare metal or just scuff it with a pad? Also can I use any primer and clear coat? Do I need to wet sand after I paint? Just trying to figure out the entire process the best way before I tackle the job
Wet sand area no need to go deep. Use Mopar 5oz lacquer in spray can for your color code. cure with heat lamp.
 
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Ok so did rattle can paint and 2K epoxy clear. I watched a YouTube video to go 1000, 1500, 2000 then polish. I did all three with a foam block backer and finished with "Nufinish" polish by hand.... It's not shiny though. I can still see the clear coat is kind of crackly. Did that mean I didn't sand it enough? Should I start over with 600 grit and work through the steps again? Or should I stay with 1000 and just push harder? How do you know you sanded enough?
Are you hand sanding or orbital/DA? You didn’t mention but you should be wet sanding. Then follow up with cut and buff with a 3M or meguiars extra cut or ultra compound on an orange pad, then polish/wax/seal/ whatever. The cutting will bring out gloss. If heavier sanding scratches like 600 remain, it will shine but the scratches will be obvious in more direct sun light letting you know to go back and start over if it’s too much for you.
 
Are you hand sanding or orbital/DA? You didn’t mention but you should be wet sanding. Then follow up with cut and buff with a 3M or meguiars extra cut or ultra compound on an orange pad, then polish/wax/seal/ whatever. The cutting will bring out gloss. If heavier sanding scratches like 600 remain, it will shine but the scratches will be obvious in more direct sun light letting you know to go back and start over if it’s too much for you.
Thanks for the reply, im hand wet-sanding. Do you think i should start over with 600? do you have guidance on how I'll know i sanded enough but not too much?

I was also polishing by hand with the nufinish. Does "orange pad" imply to use a powered buffer or is that a normal pad? It definitely doesn't have to be perfect but the crackly clearcoat isn't good enough.
 
Polish or sanding isn't going to fix cracks. Pictures might help. I know it isn't easy to get quality photos of paint, especially clear.
 
Polish or sanding isn't going to fix cracks. Pictures might help. I know it isn't easy to get quality photos of paint, especially clear.
Here's a decent one showing the non uniform clear

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You've still got obvious high-low spots. I think you need to take that down until it's gone. Sanding, way too much height to buff or polish out. I'm no expert but definitely not 1000 or higher.
 
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You've still got obvious high-low spots. I think you need to take that down until it's gone. Sanding, way too much height to buff or polish out. I'm no expert but definitely not 1000 or higher.
Agreed- looks like more sanding and possible reclear depending on how heavy you put it down and whats left. Tough to see with the silver color and hard to judge scale but the picture looks like heavy orange peel, almost approaching wrinkle paint. I take it the darker parts are the dull peaks while the silver are the low valleys?
 
That’s how my doors looked prior to wet sanding. It took numerous rounds of wet sanding to get it down. Very fine grit if I recall, don’t remember the #
Cool thanks for the feedback, tough to know the details on the first try.

I ordered a drill attachment orbital buffer and some Meguirs Ultra Cutting Compound to try to get a decent polish. This is just my armor so it'll get smashed and scratched in short order but I'm using it as a learning experience in case one day i need to respray a hood or something.
 
Cool thanks for the feedback, tough to know the details on the first try.

I ordered a drill attachment orbital buffer and some Meguirs Ultra Cutting Compound to try to get a decent polish. This is just my armor so it'll get smashed and scratched in short order but I'm using it as a learning experience in case one day i need to respray a hood or something.
I get it, I was really nervous wet sanding and allowed my son to help. He hit through some of the paint near the edges and in the hinges. I got them for trail doors and just a little security from the window when it isn’t hot. I typically go spotless all summer, but love the halfdoors. I found them with the uppers for $400 I believe. You can see imperfections up close, but 3+ feet away they look just about perfect. One thing the process taught me is nothing is permanent. If you screw them up, you can sand down and start over. Yeah it’s a pain and the paint isn’t cheap, but it can be done!