Coolant System Advice

[MachineBuu1997]

Hello! I'm so glad I found this place and can't wait to use it to learn more about my jeep. I'm 25 and have had her for maybe three years now give or take. I bought her in Oregon, lived there for a while until I moved to Tennessee where it is much hotter. And now she is WAY overheating to the point the coolant reservoir once was boiling (has only done that once). I have a few questions and figured a forum full of hella jeepers would be more useful, and maybe a little less confusing than Google.

One: I am currently using Peak brand, 50/50 coolant (it's green) and was wondering if maybe I should be using something else. I'm not brand picky and a little broke right now, but I want to make sure I'm treating her right. If/when I change coolants, is a flush ALWAYS necessary before changing. I'm getting one soon anyway bc the radiator is lookin a little yucky but figured I should ask.

Two: I've heard from a few people that car engines can be a little different for different climates and was wondering if there was something spcific I should look into that I might need to get changed so my engine runs better in hotter weather. She was fine during the winter (minus a very bald tire). These problems have only started since the heat index breached 100 F.


Three: Could this be a water pump issue? I've seen a few Google results that talk about it malfunctioning and rotating backwards, causing fluids to go the wrong way. Is that a common problem for 2005s? Should I look into it?

 

[KennethS]

First off, it’s not likely a water pump issue. These either work properly or leak from the weep hole. The reverse rotation issue is with people installing the wrong pump for their application. It’s not something that happens spontaneously.


“Boiling in the overflow tank” most likely means the radiator cap is weak and venting at too low pressure.

FYI, here in Phoenix it’s been 115-119 for the past 30 days and my TJ has run fine in stop n go traffic with the AC on so it’s completely possible for the factory system to handle excessive heat.

 

[TJ4Jim]

Hello! I'm so glad I found this place and can't wait to use it to learn more about my jeep. I'm 25 and have had her for maybe three years now give or take. I bought her in Oregon, lived there for a while until I moved to Tennessee where it is much hotter. And now she is WAY overheating to the point the coolant reservoir once was boiling (has only done that once). I have a few questions and figured a forum full of hella jeepers would be more useful, and maybe a little less confusing than Google.

One: I am currently using Peak brand, 50/50 coolant (it's green) and was wondering if maybe I should be using something else. I'm not brand picky and a little broke right now, but I want to make sure I'm treating her right. If/when I change coolants, is a flush ALWAYS necessary before changing. I'm getting one soon anyway bc the radiator is lookin a little yucky but figured I should ask.

Two: I've heard from a few people that car engines can be a little different for different climates and was wondering if there was something spcific I should look into that I might need to get changed so my engine runs better in hotter weather. She was fine during the winter (minus a very bald tire). These problems have only started since the heat index breached 100 F.


Three: Could this be a water pump issue? I've seen a few Google results that talk about it malfunctioning and rotating backwards, causing fluids to go the wrong way. Is that a common problem for 2005s? Should I look into it?

Welcome.

Could be as simple as a radiator cap on it's way out and is an inexpensive way to start, use a good quality 18lb. replacement like Stant. Condition of the coolant can also be an issue if it's nasty. Most will recommend the Xerex GO5 coolant. Check at your local parts store for a coolant system tester rental which is simple to use, it's usually free with a deposit.

I think the brand your running now is actually labeled for Asian vehicles.

If you need additional coolant you can always add distilled water until the issue is resolved and the coolant can be replaced. (before freezing)

 

[ChasUGC]

I can give you one important piece of advice. Don't mix coolant colors. I've seen horror stories here of Wranglers with mixed coolant colors plugging their cooling systems. My mechanic actually did that on my Wrangler and I was furious. He mixed the green with the orange, and I saw all sorts of cast deposits and gunk in my overflow bottle. I immediately had him flush my system, and I brought brand new green coolant. I have a funny story about it too. This past Wednesday, I got LED lights for my engine compartment. When, I was checking them out on light blue setting, I looked in my overflow bottle, and it was orange. I was so worried. So, I opened my radiator cap, and it was orange too. I was furious. I assumed my mechanic had violated my wishes and our discussion, and put orange coolant back in my radiator. So, the next morning, I drove to his shop really ready to give him a piece of my mind. I stopped in front of his shop, and I opened my hood, and although my Jeep was a little warm, I angrily opened my radiator cap, and all this green coolant came shooting out. I was shocked, but relieved. My mechanic is a nice guy and he is good. I checked my overflow bottle and it was clearly green too. I guess that those light blue LED lights from last night made my coolant look orange. I was so relieved and happy.

I know people talk about 50/50 and 60/40 mixes, but I use only pure coolant. As a Chemist, I know that H2O is a strong killer of iron, has a lower boiling point, and I've had this problem in past radiators where the water would strip the iron from the engine and plug my radiators. So far so good, as my coolant stays clear, it doesn't evaporate fast from losing so much water to steam evaporation, and I have 215,000 miles on my engine. Again, *crosses fingers*.

 

[JKP]

Hello! I'm so glad I found this place and can't wait to use it to learn more about my jeep. I'm 25 and have had her for maybe three years now give or take. I bought her in Oregon, lived there for a while until I moved to Tennessee where it is much hotter. And now she is WAY overheating to the point the coolant reservoir once was boiling (has only done that once). I have a few questions and figured a forum full of hella jeepers would be more useful, and maybe a little less confusing than Google.

One: I am currently using Peak brand, 50/50 coolant (it's green) and was wondering if maybe I should be using something else. I'm not brand picky and a little broke right now, but I want to make sure I'm treating her right. If/when I change coolants, is a flush ALWAYS necessary before changing. I'm getting one soon anyway bc the radiator is lookin a little yucky but figured I should ask.

Two: I've heard from a few people that car engines can be a little different for different climates and was wondering if there was something spcific I should look into that I might need to get changed so my engine runs better in hotter weather. She was fine during the winter (minus a very bald tire). These problems have only started since the heat index breached 100 F.


Three: Could this be a water pump issue? I've seen a few Google results that talk about it malfunctioning and rotating backwards, causing fluids to go the wrong way. Is that a common problem for 2005s? Should I look into it?

You are supposed to be running a 50/50 mixture of Zerex G05 and distilled water in your 05.

18 lb radiator cap.

The cooling system is up to the task if clean and full of the proper coolant with a good cap. I live in Middle GA and travel to Nashville frequently.

Since you have no idea what's in there, you will need to flush it completely and fill it with a known coolant.

Also be sure there's no dirt, etc in the radiator fins.

You can download an owner's manual and the FSM under Resources.

 

[KennethS]

I know people talk about 50/50 and 60/40 mixes, but I use only pure coolant.

Please forgive me if this sounds harsh, but that is 100% wrong. Pure ethylene glycol is not recommended. The manufacturers recommend a maximum of 70% coolant / 30% water ratio in extremely cold climates. More coolant than this results in reduced performance, Pure water has a higher thermal transfer, but obviously will freeze at 32F, and will result in corrosion due to no additives. 50/50 provides enhanced freeze protection down to around -40F, but in a warm environment 25-30% is sufficient to provide freeze protection and corrosion protection.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

Please forgive me if this sounds harsh, but that is 100% wrong. Pure ethylene glycol is not recommended. The manufacturers recommend a maximum of 70% coolant / 30% water ratio in extremely cold climates. More coolant than this results in reduced performance, Pure water has a higher thermal transfer, but obviously will freeze at 32F, and will result in corrosion due to no additives. 50/50 provides enhanced freeze protection down to around -40F, but in a warm environment 25-30% is sufficient to provide freeze protection and corrosion protection.

I've been processing his post for an hour and haven't responded because every time I start I can't get past "no way he really means that" because I can't imagine the cooling system running worth a damn on pure EG.

 

[MachineBuu1997]

You are supposed to be running a 50/50 mixture of Zerex G05 and distilled water in your 05.

18 lb radiator cap.

The cooling system is up to the task if clean and full of the proper coolant with a good cap. I live in Middle GA and travel to Nashville frequently.

Since you have no idea what's in there, you will need to flush it completely and fill it with a known coolant.

Also be sure there's no dirt, etc in the radiator fins.

You can download an owner's manual and the FSM under Resources.

Thank you so much!!

First off, it’s not likely a water pump issue. These either work properly or leak from the weep hole. The reverse rotation issue is with people installing the wrong pump for their application. It’s not something that happens spontaneously.


“Boiling in the overflow tank” most likely means the radiator cap is weak and venting at too low pressure.

FYI, here in Phoenix it’s been 115-119 for the past 30 days and my TJ has run fine in stop n go traffic with the AC on so it’s completely possible for the factory system to handle excessive heat.

Thank you!! I'm glad it's not the water pump, I know those can be pricey fixes.

 

[MachineBuu1997]

Welcome.

Could be as simple as a radiator cap on it's way out and an inexpensive way to start, use a good quality 18lb. replacement like Stant. Condition of the coolant can also be an issue if it's nasty. Most will recommend the Xerex GO5 coolant. Check at your local parts store for a coolant system tester rental which is simple to use, it's usually free with a deposit.

I think the brand your running now is actually labeled for Asian vehicles.

If you need additional coolant you can always add distilled water until the issue is resolved and the coolant can be replaced. (before freezing)

Welcome.

Could be as simple as a radiator cap on it's way out and an inexpensive way to start, use a good quality 18lb. replacement like Stant. Condition of the coolant can also be an issue if it's nasty. Most will recommend the Xerex GO5 coolant. Check at your local parts store for a coolant system tester rental which is simple to use, it's usually free with a deposit.

I think the brand your running now is actually labeled for Asian vehicles.

If you need additional coolant you can always add distilled water until the issue is resolved and the coolant can be replaced. (before freezing)

Thank you! I'll get that brand next time. Gonna pick that up as soon as our next payday hits.

 

[MachineBuu1997]

I can give you one important piece of advice. Don't mix coolant colors. I've seen horror stories here of Wranglers with mixed coolant colors plugging their cooling systems. My mechanic actually did that on my Wrangler and I was furious. He mixed the green with the orange, and I saw all sorts of cast deposits and gunk in my overflow bottle. I immediately had him flush my system, and I brought brand new green coolant. I have a funny story about it too. This past Wednesday, I got LED lights for my engine compartment. When, I was checking them out on light blue setting, I looked in my overflow bottle, and it was orange. I was so worried. So, I opened my radiator cap, and it was orange too. I was furious. I assumed my mechanic had violated my wishes and our discussion, and put orange coolant back in my radiator. So, the next morning, I drove to his shop really ready to give him a piece of my mind. I stopped in front of his shop, and I opened my hood, and although my Jeep was a little warm, I angrily opened my radiator cap, and all this green coolant came shooting out. I was shocked, but relieved. My mechanic is a nice guy and he is good. I checked my overflow bottle and it was clearly green too. I guess that those light blue LED lights from last night made my coolant look orange. I was so relieved and happy.

I know people talk about 50/50 and 60/40 mixes, but I use only pure coolant. As a Chemist, I know that H2O is a strong killer of iron, has a lower boiling point, and I've had this problem in past radiators where the water would strip the iron from the engine and plug my radiators. So far so good, as my coolant stays clear, it doesn't evaporate fast from losing so much water to steam evaporation, and I have 215,000 miles on my engine. Again, *crosses fingers*.

Glad the no mixing is confirmed. And man I can't wait to start buying cool add ons for my jeep.

 

[ChasUGC]

Please forgive me if this sounds harsh, but that is 100% wrong. Pure ethylene glycol is not recommended. The manufacturers recommend a maximum of 70% coolant / 30% water ratio in extremely cold climates. More coolant than this results in reduced performance, Pure water has a higher thermal transfer, but obviously will freeze at 32F, and will result in corrosion due to no additives. 50/50 provides enhanced freeze protection down to around -40F, but in a warm environment 25-30% is sufficient to provide freeze protection and corrosion protection.

I understand the recommended, but recommended is not always best. I've had experience with coolants and old engines in my life, that made me take a different approach. I also understand that flushing an engine leaves a certain amount of water in the engine, that will reduce the percentage of the coolant itself too. So, I always fill with pure coolant, as the watter evaporates, and in emergencies, I have no problem using pure water, because the coolant percentage in my engine is so high. I had so much trouble with cooling system corrosion from the engine in my old 1967 GTA Mustang engine, that I took at different approach to it. I was losing a lot of radiators due to corrosion and the iron deposits clogging my radiator fins. My coolant was totally filled with rust back then. So, I flushed the system until it was clear, and I stopped using water. And, I eventually stopped seeing rust in my cooling system. My coolant stayed clean. I started losing radiators in my 1997 Wrangler too. Then, I stopped using water in my coolant again, and I have not lost a radiator since. When something is not working, I stop using the same idea, and I innovate, or come up with a new approach. But, that is just me. I don't do the same "recommended" thing over and over again, hoping for different results. I did the same thing in my 1967 GTA Mustang when I was losing radiators due to corossion in 1985. As my 1997 Wrangler got older and I started losing radiators, I did the same thing, and I stopped losing radiators. I don't believe the manufacturers take into account the long term effects of corossion in engines. They just expect you to buy a new vehicle, which is not always possible or desired. Myself, I love classic vehicles. I love restoring them as my daily driver. And, I do my best to take care of my vehicle, even going outside the recommended to insure its longevity and reliability. That's just me. No offense.

 

[ChasUGC]

Glad the no mixing is confirmed. And man I can't wait to start buying cool add ons for my jeep.

Yeah, just look it up in this forum. It is amazing. When I started seeing the coolant globs in my overflow, and the casting sand, I knew something was wrong. So, I researched it, and I solved the problem before I ruined my Jeep. As far as the cool add ons, they are fun to buy when you don't have to waste money, constantly repairing your old "classic" TJ to keep it running smoothly. Hopefully, I can keep buying them. I guess we'll see, huh? lol.

Google "casting sand Jeep Wrangler" I found this picture and whole threads when i researched the problem awhile ago.
https://www.wranglerforum.com/attachments/img-20140112-00051-small-jpg.663737/

 

[KennethS]

Thank you so much!!


Thank you!! I'm glad it's not the water pump, I know those can be pricey fixes.

Water pump replacement is easy. Pump is under $40 and takes an at most an hour to replace.

 

[macleanflood]

Water pump replacement is easy. Pump is under $40 and takes an at most an hour to replace.

Yeah but that's a gateway drug...next thing you notice is the coolant is dirty and you're doing three flushes, the fan clutch is shot (also easy), the hoses are crap and you're using hose clamps and not the original constant tension clamps.

And then a week after you button it all up there's a puddle of antifreeze on the passenger floor.

=)

The TJ is really easy to work on and nothing is difficult or involves any special tools. Little time and patience and you can figure it out.

-Mac

 

[MachineBuu1997]

I can give you one important piece of advice. Don't mix coolant colors. I've seen horror stories here of Wranglers with mixed coolant colors plugging their cooling systems. My mechanic actually did that on my Wrangler and I was furious. He mixed the green with the orange, and I saw all sorts of cast deposits and gunk in my overflow bottle. I immediately had him flush my system, and I brought brand new green coolant. I have a funny story about it too. This past Wednesday, I got LED lights for my engine compartment. When, I was checking them out on light blue setting, I looked in my overflow bottle, and it was orange. I was so worried. So, I opened my radiator cap, and it was orange too. I was furious. I assumed my mechanic had violated my wishes and our discussion, and put orange coolant back in my radiator. So, the next morning, I drove to his shop really ready to give him a piece of my mind. I stopped in front of his shop, and I opened my hood, and although my Jeep was a little warm, I angrily opened my radiator cap, and all this green coolant came shooting out. I was shocked, but relieved. My mechanic is a nice guy and he is good. I checked my overflow bottle and it was clearly green too. I guess that those light blue LED lights from last night made my coolant look orange. I was so relieved and happy.

I know people talk about 50/50 and 60/40 mixes, but I use only pure coolant. As a Chemist, I know that H2O is a strong killer of iron, has a lower boiling point, and I've had this problem in past radiators where the water would strip the iron from the engine and plug my radiators. So far so good, as my coolant stays clear, it doesn't evaporate fast from losing so much water to steam evaporation, and I have 215,000 miles on my engine. Again, *crosses fingers*.

And there's no weird malfunctions that you've noticed?

 

[JasterMereel42]

Yeah but that's a gateway drug...next thing you notice is the coolant is dirty and you're doing three flushes, the fan clutch is shot (also easy), the hoses are crap and you're using hose clamps and not the original constant tension clamps.

And then a week after you button it all up there's a puddle of antifreeze on the passenger floor.

=)

The TJ is really easy to work on and nothing is difficult or involves any special tools. Little time and patience and you can figure it out.

-Mac

I'm going through this with my new TJ. I am now trying to figure out a smoking engine issue that I probably caused.

Replaced the water pump, had issues with the 1st t-stat housing, fixed it with the 2nd t-stat housing, but I did a half way Thermocure flush and things are just in a bad state right now. I'm a newbie mechanic so I'm a bit intimidated and frustrated right now.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Please forgive me if this sounds harsh, but that is 100% wrong. Pure ethylene glycol is not recommended.

Very true but some coolants are available premixed with distilled water so no additional water is needed. Zerex G05 is available in both a concentrate that requires the distilled water be added by the buyer or a pre-mixed ready to use version that needs no additional water.

 

[macleanflood]

And theoretically premix comes sand and iron free.

Just don't mix up the jugs full of used coolant waiting for recycling and the one you cracked open last week.

Ask me how I know. Sharpies are your friend.

-Mac

 

[JKP]

I understand the recommended, but recommended is not always best. I've had experience with coolants and old engines in my life, that made me take a different approach. I also understand that flushing an engine leaves a certain amount of water in the engine, that will reduce the percentage of the coolant itself too. So, I always fill with pure coolant, as the watter evaporates, and in emergencies, I have no problem using pure water, because the coolant percentage in my engine is so high. I had so much trouble with cooling system corrosion from the engine in my old 1967 GTA Mustang engine, that I took at different approach to it. I was losing a lot of radiators due to corrosion and the iron deposits clogging my radiator fins. My coolant was totally filled with rust back then. So, I flushed the system until it was clear, and I stopped using water. And, I eventually stopped seeing rust in my cooling system. My coolant stayed clean. I started losing radiators in my 1997 Wrangler too. Then, I stopped using water in my coolant again, and I have not lost a radiator since. When something is not working, I stop using the same idea, and I innovate, or come up with a new approach. But, that is just me. I don't do the same "recommended" thing over and over again, hoping for different results. I did the same thing in my 1967 GTA Mustang when I was losing radiators due to corossion in 1985. As my 1997 Wrangler got older and I started losing radiators, I did the same thing, and I stopped losing radiators. I don't believe the manufacturers take into account the long term effects of corossion in engines. They just expect you to buy a new vehicle, which is not always possible or desired. Myself, I love classic vehicles. I love restoring them as my daily driver. And, I do my best to take care of my vehicle, even going outside the recommended to insure its longevity and reliability. That's just me. No offense.

There will not be corrosion with a proper mix of distilled water and the proper coolant. The water jacket inside my '92 has no corrosion and the radiator has been in there for 19 years.

100% undiluted antifreeze has less cooling ability than the proper mixture, will freeze at a higher temperature, and in most cases will offer less corrosion protection than the proper mixture as water is required to keep the additives in suspension.

 

[KennethS]

Very true but some coolants are available premixed with distilled water so no additional water is needed. Zerex G05 is available in both a concentrate that requires the distilled water be added by the buyer or a pre-mixed ready to use version that needs no additional water.

Yep, I'm aware as I worked in auto parts stores through school. It was the use of the term "pure coolant" and saying H2O is bad for iron as it causes rust/oxidation which I interpreted as using undiluted concentrate.