Crazy steering

Take a string from the center of the pitman arm bolt all the way to the center of the passenger side knuckle bolt. Then from the track bar bolt to the axle side bolt. There is no way that changing the height of the track bar mount without changing the pitman arm can retain stock geometry (which is almost perfect). Correct geometry is only achieved from a stock trackbar mount, and stock pitman - or dropped mount and a dropped pitman. It might look right but your eyes will deceive you.
So when I did the string thing, I’m still getting the same angles looking like they’re correct. I could be completely missing something so please point that out. I attached another photo so you’re seeing what I’m looking at.

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So when I did the string thing, I’m still getting the same angles looking like they’re correct. I could be completely missing something so please point that out. I attached another photo so you’re seeing what I’m looking at.

View attachment 156292
Those are just random bends in the Bar for clearance. At that point they just “happen” to look parallel - but what you have to look at it mounting point to mounting point geometry. I can throw that track bar in a press and make a random bent shape out of it, but if the mounting points don’t change, the geometry and relative pivots don’t change at all. Many people on here including @jjvw , @mrblaine , and myself make bends and tweaks and bends to the track bar for clearance without changing any geometry, so the looks don’t matter at all.

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That is why you have to compare the angle of the string from mounting point to mounting point with an angle finder to confirm what I am saying, or you can just trust the common advice to change both if you’re going to (not advised) or keep both mounts stock (heavily advised)
 
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Those are just random bends in the Bar for clearance. At that point they just “happen” to look parallel - but what you have to look at it mounting point to mounting point geometry. I can throw that track bar in a press and make a random bent shape out of it, but if the mounting points don’t change, the geometry and relative pivots don’t change at all. Many people on here including @jjvw , @mrblaine , and myself make bends and tweaks and bends to the track bar for clearance without changing any geometry, so the looks don’t matter at all.
View attachment 156299
Ok I gotcha! I’m looking at the point where both are actually running at the same angle. So at this point would it be better to add a drop pitman arm or lose the drop bracket?
 
Ok I gotcha! I’m looking at the point where both are actually running at the same angle. So at this point would it be better to add a drop pitman arm or lose the drop bracket?
Losing the drop bracket it a much better choice, if you were to cycle your axle right now and flex the suspension out, you’d see that the drop bracket is actually going to hit you axle and you lose travel running it. Only when going over ~5” of lift do you want a dropped pitman or drop bracket, but that’s debated.
 
Ok I gotcha! I’m looking at the point where both are actually running at the same angle. So at this point would it be better to add a drop pitman arm or lose the drop bracket?
By removing that bracket you’ll be helping get rid of a phenomenon known as bump-steer, which is the steering wheel moving or shimming when you go over bumps. That happens because the link aren’t in line, and the axle moving moves your steering wheel by itself (no input from you). Also check your toe and caster angles, those are big parts of steering performance.
 
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Keep in mind if you remove that drop bracket you will need to buy a new front track bar. The frame mount uses a ball joint unlike that dropped mount does.
 
That looks like the rough country track bar. It uses a different style of mount point but I don't think it drops the track bar lower than the stock position. But measure to be sure.
 
I'd also look at the caster angle.

Until I fixed my caster my steering would pull a little in the direction I last turned
 
Keep in mind if you remove that drop bracket you will need to buy a new front track bar. The frame mount uses a ball joint unlike that dropped mount does.
That looks like the rough country track bar. It uses a different style of mount point but I don't think it drops the track bar lower than the stock position. But measure to be sure.
Yeah it’s the rough country adjustable track bar. Lots of measurements to take and I’m not sure if I’m looking at the right things. For the track bar, is there a mount that would allow me to keep this one or is there an adjustable track bar that would mount like the stock one? I wasn’t even thinking this was the problem so I’m not sure where to start with parts. Any suggestions on how to proceed would be really great. Thanks again for all your help. I’ve been able to tackle many small to medium projects but it seems like I’m missing some additional knowledge to account for the parts being installed.
 
Yeah it’s the rough country adjustable track bar. Lots of measurements to take and I’m not sure if I’m looking at the right things. For the track bar, is there a mount that would allow me to keep this one or is there an adjustable track bar that would mount like the stock one? I wasn’t even thinking this was the problem so I’m not sure where to start with parts. Any suggestions on how to proceed would be really great. Thanks again for all your help. I’ve been able to tackle many small to medium projects but it seems like I’m missing some additional knowledge to account for the parts being installed.
The frame mount for the track bar should be a hole that drops down a few inches from the frame rail. If there’s a dropped bracket, the bracket will have a bolt through that hole and also be bolted to the frame rail itself. Take pics and show us if you’re unsure.

Rough Country makes a ball joint style adjustable track bar that is of pretty good quality and runs about $150. Many people here will recommend the JKS which is an excellent choice but a few more bucks. 220 or so I believe.
 
The frame mount for the track bar should be a hole that drops down a few inches from the frame rail. If there’s a dropped bracket, the bracket will have a bolt through that hole and also be bolted to the frame rail itself. Take pics and show us if you’re unsure.

Rough Country makes a ball joint style adjustable track bar that is of pretty good quality and runs about $150. Many people here will recommend the JKS which is an excellent choice but a few more bucks. 220 or so I believe.
I really like JKS products. Does the JKS track bar have the ball joint style mount as well? Also do they have an adjustable one?
 
I really like JKS products. Does the JKS track bar have the ball joint style mount as well? Also do they have an adjustable one?
I think the JKS uses a flex joint instead of a ball joint but same concept. And yes it’s adjustable.
 
Anything you do is a moot point if your tires are out of balance. No sense in doing an alignment until you have all the bits swapped out that you are going to swap out. As I replaced absolutely everything, I found each upgrade improved the steering and ride a little bit. Most noticeable was the balance. Too many tire shop employees are just plain too lazy to take the time to balance properly or do not have adequate training or experience. You don't always get the mechanical cream of the crop slinging tires at a budget shop.
 
Anything you do is a moot point if your tires are out of balance. No sense in doing an alignment until you have all the bits swapped out that you are going to swap out. As I replaced absolutely everything, I found each upgrade improved the steering and ride a little bit. Most noticeable was the balance. Too many tire shop employees are just plain too lazy to take the time to balance properly or do not have adequate training or experience. You don't always get the mechanical cream of the crop slinging tires at a budget shop.
Yeah unfortunately balancing would be above my abilities. I have a couple shops I trust that are actually still open. I’ll give them a call. We have an off road shop here on Maui but they don’t have the best reputation which is really unfortunate. What’s your experience, if any, with the guys at Costo? Hit or miss?
 
I've never used COSTCO's shop. Perhaps if you explain what you want, letting them know you don't want a wham bam thank you Ma'am balance job, they might have a guy that can do the job right. Ask them who is their best tire guy, if they say all of them, move on. Every shop manager should have a top guy. Some tire stores do have people that are good that have been there for years. Let them know you will be fussy and you will be back if not right.
 
I've never used COSTCO's shop. Perhaps if you explain what you want, letting them know you don't want a wham bam thank you Ma'am balance job, they might have a guy that can do the job right. Ask them who is their best tire guy, if they say all of them, move on. Every shop manager should have a top guy. Some tire stores do have people that are good that have been there for years. Let them know you will be fussy and you will be back if not right.
Sounds good to me! So I have all my JKS parts list together only to find they may not ship to HI. Haha...I’m gonna email them and see if that’s a hard and fast rule. Thanks again for all the help guys. I hope to have this TJ in better shape before we get back to work because it’s my daily driver.
 
Hoping to hit the island in December if they get this shit sorted out. JKS is a good choice for a solid track bar if you can get one. Bet it'll fix a lot of your issues with that RC garbage. I sure hope Eskimo Candy and Kimos stays afloat thru all of this.
 
Hoping to hit the island in December if they get this shit sorted out. JKS is a good choice for a solid track bar if you can get one. Bet it'll fix a lot of your issues with that RC garbage. I sure hope Eskimo Candy and Kimos stays afloat thru all of this.
Oh man...Eskimo Candy is one of my favorite spots! They’ve been helping out in the community quite a bit so I think they’ll recover quite well!
 
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