Currie Currectlync install issue

I currently have equal steering on both sides. I re-aligned after the install so the Toe-in and steering wheel is set up.

No spacers on the springs, pure suspension lift

I found online other people had the same issue and had to have brackets made. Even MrBlaine has replacement brackets that raise the swaybar connection (though they may be for another purpose).

Could it just be a manufactures defect?


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Cudabnu said:
Not sure if it helps or not, but you have the left side link correct, but the right side bottom mount link is on the outside of the bracket and should be on the inside, unless you switched it to try to get more clearance
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Yeah, I did that on purpose today as a temporary fix because my right turning was only about 1/2 the range of motion.


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In the first picture in post 16 the passenger lower control arm mount looks bent maybe? I'm on a phone and can't enlarge it to much.
 
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is it me, or does the right side spring in the fist pic with the wheels straight look like is leaning out from bottom to top ( not straight up and down)?
 
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ohiopatriot said:
In the first picture in post 16 the passenger lower control arm mount looks bent maybe? I'm on a phone and can't enlarge it to much.
Click to expand...

I noticed that this morning. The control arm is fine, just the bracket is bent. But the suspension has handled fine with no change. I don’t even know how or when that happened, might’ve been in Moab or something.

I was having this same issue with the stock setup for a long time. It always messed with the rubber boot and always had grease all over the sway bar bracket


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ohiopatriot said:
In the first picture in post 16 the passenger lower control arm mount looks bent maybe? I'm on a phone and can't enlarge it to much.
Click to expand...

I noticed that too. It also looks like your uppers are out of whack. Is your track bar centered? Your coils are no where near straight. Seems to me the entire axle is shifted to the passenger side.
 
tworley said:
I noticed that too. It also looks like your uppers are out of whack. Is your track bar centered? Your coils are no where near straight. Seems to me the entire axle is shifted to the passenger side.
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That's what I thought... like maybe the track bar was adjusted too far out and pushing the axle in the wrong direction. Or control arm mounts could be bent too.
 
Chris said:
That's what I thought... like maybe the track bar was adjusted too far out and pushing the axle in the wrong direction. Or control arm mounts could be bent too.
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The passenger side lower control arm axle mount is bent now as of recent. It may be contributing. I'll have to check my trackbar again and make sure everything is square.

Can I just bend the bracket tabs back? or will I have to get new ones welded on?
 
lrb6805 said:
I found online other people had the same issue and had to have brackets made. Even MrBlaine has replacement brackets that raise the swaybar connection (though they may be for another purpose).
Click to expand...

I believe that those brackets were designed to gain clearance when the driver side tie rod end is flipped to the top of the knuckle.
 
lrb6805 said:
511a0c9b4382160deb9ee634d1a94721-jpg.jpg
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Is your right side lower control arm mount straight? Looks kind of funny from this angle.
 
I just had a friend look at this thread and he said the problem is that your axle is positioned too far forward by the control arms. plus its pinion angle has been pushed too far up which has tilted the top of the axle too far forward causing more interference. I'm asking for a little more clarification on part of that but this guy knows his stuff. The axle positioning was something I was thinking at first too, just too many variables at once to sort through first. :)

P.S. How about a photo of where your front driveshaft connects to the front axle's pinion and taken from the side? Clear enough and level enough so we can see the angular relationship between the driveshaft and enough of the axle housing so we can see its pinion angle.
 
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Jerry Bransford said:
I just had a friend look at this thread and he said the problem is that your axle is positioned too far forward by the control arms. plus its pinion angle has been pushed too far up which has tilted the top of the axle too far forward causing more interference. I'm asking for a little more clarification on part of that but this guy knows his stuff. The axle positioning was something I was thinking at first too, just too many variables at once to sort through first. :)
Click to expand...

Awesome feedback sir. So what course of action should I take to fix those issues?

Also, with it possible being too far forward, what about the overall wheel base length? I’ve already measured my overall wheel base and its shorter now that I installed this lift. How should I adjust things to gain back the original wheel base?


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Jerry Bransford said:
I just had a friend look at this thread and he said the problem is that your axle is positioned too far forward by the control arms. plus its pinion angle has been pushed too far up which has tilted the top of the axle too far forward causing more interference. I'm asking for a little more clarification on part of that but this guy knows his stuff. The axle positioning was something I was thinking at first too, just too many variables at once to sort through first. :)
Click to expand...
He beat me to it. My question was going to be if the bump stops are lined up when the axle is at full bump.

I recall a similar issue on mine when I installed adjustable control arms. I needed to pull the axle rearwards a bit and then mess with the caster.
 
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Installing a suspension lift will pull the axles toward each other when using the same length control arms. Your front axle is too far forward now but that lengthens the wheelbase. Your rear axle has certainly been pulled in toward the center, moving it back is just a matter of lengthening the upper & lower rear control arms by an equal amount for each arm. Pulling the front axle back means shortening the arms but you also have a wonky pinion/caster angle that will be have to be taken into account to get that front axle dialed in.

My best advice is to ask around in your local Jeep clubs on who is your area's guru of all things TJ like I have in my area. Not many 4x4 shops employ that caliber of person, especially not chain stores like 4Wheel Parts. There's bound to be someone not that far away in your great state of Texas who can get your front axle dialed in for you.
 
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So it looks like Previous Owner (PO) mods plus my own limited knowledge of what the stock suspension looked like is coming back to bite me in the butt.

I took my LJ in to an offroad shop today to get the old/bent lower control arm brackets removed snd have new HD ones welded on (Barnes). I also showed him the interference issue with the tierod/track bar and he pointed out that I have a really tall lift. I told him it was only 4in, but then he pointe out rubber on top of the front springs. He said it also has 2inch pucks at the top.

I thought I had removed all of the old budget lift from the PO, but I guess not. So the last 6 months I’ve been running with 6in lift in the front lol ‍♂️. Luckily he said he’ll remove the pucks and this is probably the root of all my issues.

I just had knee surgery, so I asked to adjust the control arms for me. Hopefully this will be the end of this issue

Stuff like this makes me never want to buy another modified used vehicle

51b902105b11841ace5f4fafa44f4843.jpg



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