Daily Driver, Go Where I Want To Build

30 years ago, I used this exact same tire groover when my dad wanted to open up a set of Mickey Thompson tires he wasn't happy with.
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This thing looks like a 1950's era sci-fi ray gun. I wonder when it was first designed.
 
A design that stood the test of time, no reason to change it.

No reason to change it for the purposes of marketing. That's the part that really interests me. Unlike the highly competetive cordless drill or coffee maker industry, no one who buys these things cares how it looks. The increasingly small handful of people who buy tire groovers each year don't care as long as it works. As a result, this very old design aesthetic has survived for a very long time. I don't think I can go to Home Depot today and find a tool like that. Fascinating!
 
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are you gonna sipe them or cut grooves to make the large center pads into smaller 1's?
Both eventually. The ramps leading up to the center tread faces are going away. And those lugs are going to be made smaller as well as siped. I'll draw it out soon.

First I want to leave them alone until a good trail run. Soon, I hope.
 
30 years ago, I used this exact same tire groover when my dad wanted to open up a set of Mickey Thompson tires he wasn't happy with.
View attachment 153852

This thing looks like a 1950's era sci-fi ray gun. I wonder when it was first designed.

Looks like the one I have. Going to try it out soon too.
 
Both sides? If you adjust your link length you can change the arms position relative to the tire and position it in the "corner" of the tire.
I was able to dial it almost all the way out by putting it “in the corner” as you said, but still needed a washer to keep it from grabbing at one side hard bump steering lock.
 
I was able to dial it almost all the way out by putting it “in the corner” as you said, but still needed a washer to keep it from grabbing at one side hard bump steering lock.

When it would happen, is this a slow or a high speed event? Would any meaningful damage occur?
 
One interesting note - using MCE fenders allows you to put the AR higher up and out of harms way, if it ends up being an issue. Also depends on how much bumpstop you need, might never even get that high due to the bumps you run to keep the mid arm out of the oil pan.
 
Full stuff, almost full lock. The tire is pushing the AR into the grill.
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I think I will shorten the AR links a bit to bring the heim lower relative to the tire, which would also move the arm down and away from the grill.

This is the current full droop. Good amount of room left before the links are pulled straight.
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Full stuff, almost full lock. The tire is pushing the AR into the grill.
View attachment 153891

I think I will shorten the AR links a bit to bring the heim lower relative to the tire, which would also move the arm down and away from the grill.

This is the current full droop. Good amount of room left before the links are pulled straight.
View attachment 153893
I saw almost the same, shortening the links is a good idea. If you were to shorten them, would it still be enough to keep them not straight?
 
Shortened the links as far as they will go. Still safe at droop.
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Full stuff, full (actual) lock. Tire hits the heim and deflects the arm. Arm now fully clears the grill.
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Ride height is right about here.
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That's the best I can do with what I have. It's good enough for me.
 
Here is what else I figured out today.

Full bump, full lock, the new tires barely clears the rear wall. A 35" MTR has 1/2" larger radius and would make harder contact. I'll be keeping this larger tire in mind.

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