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Daily Driver, Go Where I Want To Build
- Thread starter jjvw
- Start date
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Getting to full stuff, full lock is interesting.
Full lock restricts the last 1.5" of up. The Currie bumps compress a bit, so I'm adding in some upward movement.
Also notice how close the inner sidewall is to the upper spring seat and where things would be if the body allowed more movement.
Full stuff, steering restricted before lock. The tire hits the rear wall.
Full lock restricts the last 1.5" of up. The Currie bumps compress a bit, so I'm adding in some upward movement.
Also notice how close the inner sidewall is to the upper spring seat and where things would be if the body allowed more movement.
Full stuff, steering restricted before lock. The tire hits the rear wall.
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OP
Not sure, when, if or how. But if I were to open up the rear wall, this is what needs to be moved out of the way. The outside corner needs to be pushed back about 1.5". This should also be enough to allow the larger MTR to clear at full stuff, full lock.
That would leave the back rear of the upper spring seat as the remaining point of interference.
That would leave the back rear of the upper spring seat as the remaining point of interference.
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must be AR day i just beat mine in today, that was the easy part. i need axle mounts, now.
yours sure don"t look stock where'd you pick those up from?
yours sure don"t look stock where'd you pick those up from?
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nice , TY. do you know if those can be mig'd or do you need special rod to weld on the C's?
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As far as the grooving and siping is concerned, this is my immediate thought. Though, I would do the middle section first and see how things are.
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are the ramps buggin ya? to much might result in a balancing nightmare. widening the narrow grooves to create better transfer channels could be just enough. widen the skinny cracks. the ramps might be what keeps it quiet on pavement. that thing come with a depth gauge/guide?
OP
You can move that part of the fender back. What you have to do to the inner fender braces to do so is tedious at best. At that point, just get some high line fenders.
I think grooving is useful if the tire has lost definition between the blocks. I got twice the trail mileage out of my AT2s grooving those things. I wouldn't mess with these, they still look fine.
I think the sipes serve two purposes, traction and to help even wear. I wouldn't go more than about 1/4" deep and I'd keep it all kinda perpendicular like these blue lines. I think you will get chunks and the depth limits this. The flipped cutter will make two lines. I left out some lines, hard work even on a computer screen.
At least that's what I was thinking when I did mine, keep it simple and break up the big blocks.
I think the sipes serve two purposes, traction and to help even wear. I wouldn't go more than about 1/4" deep and I'd keep it all kinda perpendicular like these blue lines. I think you will get chunks and the depth limits this. The flipped cutter will make two lines. I left out some lines, hard work even on a computer screen.
At least that's what I was thinking when I did mine, keep it simple and break up the big blocks.
tossin a dart at the board here............if your gonna cut into the fenders.....toximus had the GR high line inner mounting kit for sale.
i wonder if you could use the mounts. that'll give you platform to raise the battery and move your rear wall back.
as far as the rear wall cut it out and form some aluminum sheeting and rivet the seam into whats left of the OE inner.
i wonder if you could use the mounts. that'll give you platform to raise the battery and move your rear wall back.
as far as the rear wall cut it out and form some aluminum sheeting and rivet the seam into whats left of the OE inner.
Similar to this, I have always been curious if anyone has ran the Chris Durham hood with aftermarket inner highline fenders. This should eliminate the factory inner fender interference and allow the rear of the fender to be modified. I have always liked the CD hood but do not like how clearance is made but not made in other aspects.
Not quite sure. I have never studied it enough. I do remember seeing the TJ Chris Durham had, from the photos it looks as if he is running the hood with aluminum inners. It does not have that factory inner fender horizontal lip at the hood line. Not sure if the rear of the fender is still an issue with up travel as @jjvw is finding.