Check the clearance between the track bar and the draglink at the pitman. That is your limit. I believe that is well over an inch which would easily solve your new 35" MTR problems at the rear of the tire.
This might be my next big project!
Check the clearance between the track bar and the draglink at the pitman. That is your limit. I believe that is well over an inch which would easily solve your new 35" MTR problems at the rear of the tire.
Nope, just clean it up, clamp it in place and weld it up.Do you do any additional support to the relocated mount or just copy the factory welds?
Nope, just clean it up, clamp it in place and weld it up.
It had not dawned on me at that time that it would be possible to move the stocker forward. That and I was dealing with a host of other issues on his rig within budgetary constraints on both sides. I didn't have excess time to donate, some but not an extraordinary amount and he was limited on his end. Today, I would grab one of the ones I've removed and use it.Years ago I saw your build on Robert Yates jeep on JF, I believe he called it "Goodbye Long Arms, Hello Short Arms". You had actually fabricated an L that used a large bolt on the factory trackbar mount and then a bracket welded to the frame to tie it together. A new pitman arm configuration was required, and if I recall you heated the factory one and used a shop press to get the height you wanted. It allowed you to move the axle forward about an inch. Sadly the pics are mostly dead on that thread, but it seemed pretty elegant at the time.
If you have a good die grinder, some Jimmy's Death Wheels will help. Be prepared to be pretty grumpy getting it off. I'm fortunate to be able to use a plasma cutter and get one off without destroying the frame or the mount.Thanks for the encouragement! I'm doing this.
If you have a good die grinder, some Jimmy's Death Wheels will help. Be prepared to be pretty grumpy getting it off. I'm fortunate to be able to use a plasma cutter and get one off without destroying the frame or the mount.
That is not the place to learn. I can do it with my welding hood that has variable shade settings for cutting. I set it so I can watch the jet burn through the weld and not the parent metal. You have to move fast and know what to watch for.I have access to a plasma cutter, just need to learn it.
Noted. I'll use wheels.That is not the place to learn. I can do it with my welding hood that has variable shade settings for cutting. I set it so I can watch the jet burn through the weld and not the parent metal. You have to move fast and know what to watch for.
I can cut a lower control arm bracket off in about 2 minutes and barely gouge the frame.
Yes, until you get to the inside of the two lower fingers.Noted. I'll use wheels.
Yes, until you get to the inside of the two lower fingers.
Yes, get some Jimmy's Death Wheels.Die grinder?
If by lightly you mean a full force swing with a 16 lb sledge, then yes.Would a carbide burr work to remove the welds and then lightly tap it loose?
If by lightly you mean a full force swing with a 16 lb sledge, then yes.
Adds lightness.More better.
After today’s work with cutting wheels I’m buying a plasma cutter. First lower took 20ish min. Other 3 took about 10min. Inner rear uppers 10 min and trac bar 15ish min.That is not the place to learn. I can do it with my welding hood that has variable shade settings for cutting. I set it so I can watch the jet burn through the weld and not the parent metal. You have to move fast and know what to watch for.
I can cut a lower control arm bracket off in about 2 minutes and barely gouge the frame.