Daily Driver, Go Where I Want To Build
- Thread starter jjvw
- Start date
The recessing of a pair of rock lights into the sliders began today.
The KC HiLite Cyclones are not quite 2.25" in diameter.
I bought a router bushing set and a circle inlay template.
Here is the cardboard test cut of a 2.25" hole.
The KC HiLite Cyclones are not quite 2.25" in diameter.
I bought a router bushing set and a circle inlay template.
Here is the cardboard test cut of a 2.25" hole.
I went with the bushing rather than a patterning bit so that I could control the bit depth independently of the template. Initially I thought the thickness of the aluminum rocker and it's rear torque box spacer was thicker than the light and the light would hang from the milled spacer. This was not correct. The thicknesses are nearly the same. Still this was a lot of material to cut, so I did it in stages.
The template gets secured to the rocker.
Use the router.
Eventually a hole appears.
The light wiring will pass through a gap on the outboard side of the rocker where it will eventually join up with the other six lights.
The template gets secured to the rocker.
Use the router.
Eventually a hole appears.
The light wiring will pass through a gap on the outboard side of the rocker where it will eventually join up with the other six lights.
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With the rocker installed, the light needs to hang from the torque box.
Wrap the light up with tape to center it in the hole.
Using the light as a centering guide, drill a hole into the torque box.
Install a nutsert.
Hang the light with a 5/16-18 stainless button head bolt.
Install the rubber center cap.
Wrap the light up with tape to center it in the hole.
Using the light as a centering guide, drill a hole into the torque box.
Install a nutsert.
Hang the light with a 5/16-18 stainless button head bolt.
Install the rubber center cap.
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Since I am messing with the rockers, I decided it was time to do the final trim on the front wheel opening.
Here is the recip saw rough cut from 8-9 weeks ago when the highline project started.
This was done with a patterning bit with the bearing on the bottom.
I used the fender as the template on the vertical face. Then I finished the underside with a flap disc.
While I was at it, today also became the day to begin building the Savvy slider hardcore upgrade that never was. More on this later.
Halfway done!
Here is the recip saw rough cut from 8-9 weeks ago when the highline project started.
This was done with a patterning bit with the bearing on the bottom.
I used the fender as the template on the vertical face. Then I finished the underside with a flap disc.
While I was at it, today also became the day to begin building the Savvy slider hardcore upgrade that never was. More on this later.
Halfway done!
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Is that a previous weld to the steel rocker portion? I know a stretch is in the plans...Curious about your sequence of work here...
The Savvy sliders will not be a part of the wheelbase stretch. But I am stretching the Savvy sliders.
Looks like you ended up going all the way through. Done again would you just use a hole saw?
Hole saw would be much faster. But the cut would not be nearly as clean. For this spot where almost no one will ever see it, I would still use a router.
Here is the rarely seen full length steel Savvy slider.
Compared to the other side.
Out of the box, the steel slider fits in between the factory flares. The highline led to no flares and the front aluminum rocker being trimmed backwards due to the larger wheel opening. I added an extension from a scrap piece of slider to the rear to better match the proportions and layout of the new front.
Compared to the other side.
Out of the box, the steel slider fits in between the factory flares. The highline led to no flares and the front aluminum rocker being trimmed backwards due to the larger wheel opening. I added an extension from a scrap piece of slider to the rear to better match the proportions and layout of the new front.
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Not at all. They have their place, the right ones work very well in that place. They are not good at metal finishing, they are excellent at blending, deburring, and shaping edges to cope to something. The fibre discs suck at grinding out a cope to fit and doing that is very hard on the backing disc.
Fibre disc excel at making stuff flat and flush. They are also very fast.
One thing I immediately noticed was that I am paying more attention to holding the disc flat to the work. The grinder is being used differently and the results are much nicer than I an used to.