Dana 35 or dana 44

[Jerry Bransford]

Gotcha. I tend to not be to hard through turns as of right now I dont have front sway links in and the body roll is a tad sketchy but I enjoy your input your very knowledgeable

I'd reinstall your antiswaybar links. Disconnecting the rear antiswaybar does NOTHING to increase usable articulation/flex and it can make the Jeep more tip-prone. Really. My rear antiswaybar is never disconnected and up front I have an Antirock antiswaybar that is never disconnected either. Shy of that I'd only disconnect the front while offroading but leave it connected for the street. The TJ's coil spring suspension needs both antiswaybars, unlike older leaf spring suspensions that work fine without them.

 

[Steel City 06]

Consider an Antirock front swaybar. It's a soft rate adjustable sway bar that improves performance on and off road over no bar. The rates are all softer than stock, but have a good degree of adjustability.

There are also dual rate swaybars like the Swayloc that behave like an Antirock unlocked, and stiffer than stock locked. So you can whip it around corners on the street without much roll while maintaining flex and balance off-road.

Most Antirock owners are very happy with their purchase. I sold mine for a Swayloc, but I routinely load my car up and go on long highway trips, and wanted something more stable

 

[Walter josepj]

I'd reinstall your antiswaybar links. Disconnecting the rear antiswaybar does NOTHING to improve rear axle articulation abilities and it can make the Jeep more tip-prone. Really. My rear antiswaybar is never disconnected and up front I have an Antirock antiswaybar that is never disconnected either. Shy of that I'd only disconnect the front while offroading but leave it connected for the street. The TJ's coil spring suspension needs both antiswaybars, unlike older leaf spring suspensions that work fine without them.

Just the front not the rear links

 

[Walter josepj]

Consider an Antirock front swaybar. It's a soft rate adjustable sway bar that improves performance on and off road over no bar. The rates are all softer than stock, but have a good degree of adjustability.

There are also dual rate swaybars like the Swayloc that behave like an Antirock unlocked, and stiffer than stock locked. So you can whip it around corners on the street without much roll while maintaining flex and balance off-road.

Most Antirock owners are very happy with their purchase. I sold mine for a Swayloc, but I routinely load my car up and go on long highway trips, and wanted something more stable

Never thought about that

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Never thought about that

Do, it's one of the best things you can install on a TJ. It really helps offroad by allowing the f/r axles to work better together than when one axle is connected and the other isn't. The Antirock's torsion bar rate is very similar to the rear antiswaybar's torsion rate.

 

[cpwolf]

I'm betting you're basing that concern on old outdated no-longer true rumors you've read about the Detroit Locker. I constantly drove my Detroit Locker on curvy mountain roads, even towing my tent trailer much of the time, and it was an absolute complete non-issue. At least so long as you're not hammering the throttle through turns. A Detroit Locker is an 'automatic' which means it unlocks for turns so long as you're not hard on the gas pedal.

Jerry,
Question for you on this. I have a 2005 TJ (my 19 year old son's, but we're switching trucks and it'll be mine) and backing out of the school parking lot it broke an axle, and I had a shop put these in:

https://www.revolutiongear.com/prod..._tj_yj_and_93_98_zj_rear_axle_revolution_gear
He said there was a locker in the rear diff, and this was before I had time to really do a lot of this work, so I didn't get all the details. In general, it drives weird. I'ts got a 3.5" rancho lift, and 33's, looking at 35's, 4.11 gears the seller in 4 years ago told me. This will be stupid, but can you pull a locker? Go without it, or is it a full spider gear replacement thing? This is a general question, until I pull the cover and look at exactly what's there, but in general is a locker "added" to or a "replacement" where I'll need to get a new setup and put it in?

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Jerry,
Question for you on this. I have a 2005 TJ (my 19 year old son's, but we're switching trucks and it'll be mine) and backing out of the school parking lot it broke an axle, and I had a shop put these in:

https://www.revolutiongear.com/prod..._tj_yj_and_93_98_zj_rear_axle_revolution_gear
He said there was a locker in the rear diff, and this was before I had time to really do a lot of this work, so I didn't get all the details. In general, it drives weird. I'ts got a 3.5" rancho lift, and 33's, looking at 35's, 4.11 gears the seller in 4 years ago told me. This will be stupid, but can you pull a locker? Go without it, or is it a full spider gear replacement thing? This is a general question, until I pull the cover and look at exactly what's there, but in general is a locker "added" to or a "replacement" where I'll need to get a new setup and put it in?

Driving weird is normal for an automatic locker but a slightly modified driving technique will minimize those quirks. Just make sure to use neutral throttle when making turns which makes it easier for the locker to unlock while you're in a turn. If you're gassing it through a turn or doing a hard deceleration through a turn the locker has a hard time unlocking through the turn which causes the tires to chirp, jerky steering, etc. I drove with an automatic locker for years and it only took a day or two to figure out how the locker liked to be driven and after that it was fine.

Yes an automatic locker can be removed, and what size tires are installed?

 

[Steel City 06]

Jerry,
Question for you on this. I have a 2005 TJ (my 19 year old son's, but we're switching trucks and it'll be mine) and backing out of the school parking lot it broke an axle, and I had a shop put these in:

https://www.revolutiongear.com/prod..._tj_yj_and_93_98_zj_rear_axle_revolution_gear
He said there was a locker in the rear diff, and this was before I had time to really do a lot of this work, so I didn't get all the details. In general, it drives weird. I'ts got a 3.5" rancho lift, and 33's, looking at 35's, 4.11 gears the seller in 4 years ago told me. This will be stupid, but can you pull a locker? Go without it, or is it a full spider gear replacement thing? This is a general question, until I pull the cover and look at exactly what's there, but in general is a locker "added" to or a "replacement" where I'll need to get a new setup and put it in?

Depending on the type of locker, you may have to replace the carrier, which requires setting up the gears again. So the labor cost may not be cheap. The only other scenario I can think of is a lunchbox style locker, which can be removed without replacing a carrier.
If you're considering a regear or selectable lockers, plan on doing those at the same time, if possible.

 

[Westtown Willy]

There's also something called a Super 30 you could put in the front if you add a front locker.

I have one of those, kind of knew at the time I did it that it was overkill for my setup (33s, not crazy wheeling) but I did it anyway. I was regearing and putting in a locker already so the ‘Super’ part of it really only meant adding 30 spline chromoly shafts & a different part number on the locker, though they weren’t cheap at around $800 from RGA at the time I figured what the hell, that will be one less likely thing to break going forward… more than 3 years hence & I’ve yet to even chip a tooth on either end much less any real damage so it’s all good.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Depending on the type of locker, you may have to replace the carrier, which requires setting up the gears again.

The gears don't have to be set up again when installing a new carrier. Only the backlash needs to be set which is a minor procedure.

 

[Mobusaki]

The gears don't have to be set up again when installing a new carrier. Only the backlash needs to be set which is a minor procedure.

I did not know that. Does that mean someone could, say, swap out a Truetrac with a lunchbox locker without a regear?

 

[Walter josepj]

I did not know that. Does that mean someone could, say, swap out a Truetrac with a lunchbox locker without a regear?

If done correctly yes.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

I did not know that. Does that mean someone could, say, swap out a Truetrac with a lunchbox locker without a regear?

A Truetrac is a full carrier device, you could not install a lunchbox locker into it. A lunchbox locker can only be inserted into an open carrier with no LSD.

To replace a Truetrac with a locker you'd need a full carrier locker like an ARB Air Locker, Detroit Locker, or an Eaton E-locker. Replacing a Truetrac with any of those would just mean adjusting the backlash of the new locker. Adjusting the backlash just involves shimming the new locker slightly left or right to get the right amount of "slop" between the ring & pinion gears. No setup is required for the gears when installing a locker like any of those three mentioned above.

 

[Longhorn84]

No, there's no need for the pinion gear to be replaced to install a Super35 if you're keeping the existing ratio. It makes use of the existing R&P gears and there's no need to set the gears up again. The only thing that needs to be set is the backlash.

But you need a new carrier right since it's going from a 27 to 30 spline shaft?