Decision time on my LJ build

Irun

A vicious cycle of doing, undoing, and re-doing!
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I'm now at a point where a decision needs to be made on what do do about the rear. The Jeep is a 2004 LJ, with a stock LJ 3.73 disc brake rear. While I say the maximum tire size I see is 35, I do believe there could come a point where 37s might find there way onto the Jeep. While this is a remote possibility anytime soon, the fact that I'm thinking it tells me to plan accordingly.

With that remote possibility, I don't want to waste money. This leads me to the decision that needs to be made. The way I see it there are two paths to take:

- Option 1. Buy an Eaton E locker and install that along with 5.38 gears (The front has a Rubicon 44 that I just installed) in my current rear. Then, if I did decide to go 37s in the future, I'd have to sell it and upgrade later.
- Option 2. Purchase a complete Currie HP Dana 60 now, with E-Locker and 5.38s

The cost difference between the two is significant. With Option 1, I'm looking at roughly $2000 - $2200, which includes someone else doing the re-gear for me. With Option 2, I'm looking at $5800, so that's a $3600 delta. For that difference, I get a much stronger, even with the semi-float design, rear that could hold up to a 37" tire and I don't sacrifice ground clearance.

The only things making me hesitate are the stock 60.5 width and the fact that I'd also need to factor in a rear AntiRock to get the most travel at full droop. The stock 60.5" width is really the big factor making me pause. Common sense says if I'm going to go to the trouble of buying and installing a Dana 60, it should be a minimum of 63.5' width. Thoughts?
 
You have to really figure out what tire size you want to run as there is so much that has to change if you want to go bigger than 35s.
 
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I chose to build a jku rear Dana 44. Arb, 35 spline chromoly shafts. Shafts were from Facebook market place new in box $300. Arb was $500 on Ebay new in box (but missing parts) ring and pinion was about $300( new 5.58s from revolution gear.) Yoke, nut, bolts about $100( ebay) gotta buy brakes . Housing was $100 on Facebook market place.so far I should be all in about $1500 in parts to a verystrong, light rear axle ,easily capable of handling 37s.
 
I'd recommend building it for 35's if you aren't willing to put a 60 in the front.

I am building it for 35s. Maybe the simpler question is, beyond money, why should I not get a Currie HP60?
 
Stick with 35’s or go for 37’s. It’s not really a matter of future proofing for 37’s right now. You’ll change a lot of the 35 build to accommodate 37’s.

If you’re already thinking 37’s…then go for it.
 
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I chose to build a jku rear Dana 44. Arb, 35 spline chromoly shafts. Shafts were from Facebook market place new in box $300. Arb was $500 on Ebay new in box (but missing parts) ring and pinion was about $300( new 5.58s from revolution gear.) Yoke, nut, bolts about $100( ebay) gotta buy brakes . Housing was $100 on Facebook market place.so far I should be all in about $1500 in parts to a verystrong, light rear axle ,easily capable of handling 37s.

Since I'm running JL beadlock capable 392 wheels, I have considered picking up a set of JK 44s.
 
Stick with 35’s or go for 37’s. It’s not really a matter of future proofing for 37’s right now. You’ll change a lot of the 35 build to accommodate 37’s.

If you’re already thinking 37’s…then go for it.

Not 100% convinced I'll do that. I'm just trying not to do what I've done in the past, which is waste money. :cautious:
 
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Not 100% convinced I'll do that. I'm just trying not to do what I've done in the past, which is waste money. :cautious:

Wait, so you want us to help you NOT spend more money? Probably asking the wrong group of people! 😂 I mean I'm surprised nobody has said "tonz and fodeez" yet. Maybe he's working today?
 
I am building it for 35s. Maybe the simpler question is, beyond money, why should I not get a Currie HP60?

You shouldn't get the 60 because then you'll want to go bigger and that 44 in the front isn't enough.

Then if you move to 60's front and rear there's no point stopping at 37's when you have axles that can handle 40's.
 
ROFL I am doing the same thing on a 33" tires for a 35" tire option. In that I am building for 35s, but staying on 33s for a while. It never ends! Dial back the overthinking. Do the full build to 35s and drive it for the next few years or until you find trails that 35s wont handle, but you "have" to take. Then figure out if you really want the extra expense for "tonz and fodeez".

Just my 2 cents from one overthinker to another.
 
I built my 44 up first with a locker, chromo axles, gears etc. Later I got a deal on an ECGS Dana 60, so I swapped them and was able to sell the 44 for almost the same amount I had into it. It seems like the 44s modded hold their value.
 
Music Video Throwing Money GIF
 
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Just my $0.02: keep it narrow. There’re plenty of wide-ass JKs JLs Ram pickups and Broncos on the road/trail already. The LJ is svelte in comparison. Some obstacles a narrow vehicle can go around instead of over. Sometimes rocks are 61”apart.