Does this solve my power problem?

[B00mb00m]

Ohhh shit. 74 weld, the guys who made the Baja broncos portal setup just showed Jk and JL portal attachments. Now if I kept my 5.13 and added on the 1.19 portal reduction I get the clearance I need and enough power (6.10 final ratio) to drive in the highway. What do you think? They say to run a 6" backspace rim and it runs 3" wider than stock so 68 wms.

 

[mrblaine]

Ohhh shit. 74 weld, the guys who made the Baja broncos portal setup just showed Jk and JL portal attachments. Now if I kept my 5.13 and added on the 1.19 portal reduction I get the clearance I need and enough power (6.10 final ratio) to drive in the highway. What do you think? They say to run a 6" backspace rim and it runs 3" wider than stock so 68 wms.

View attachment 296811

You already ain't got enough balljoint and you think adding more leverage and torque is gonna make that better?

That will truly be awesome to watch the first time you hang the rear diff and the front is going down the front side of something with a lot of traction. It will keep going until it rips the balljoints right out of the C and then I will laugh more hysterically than I am now.

 

[B00mb00m]

You already ain't got enough balljoint and you think adding more leverage and torque is gonna make that better?

That will truly be awesome to watch the first time you hang the rear diff and the front is going down the front side of something with a lot of traction. It will keep going until it rips the balljoints right out of the C and then I will laugh more hysterically than I am now.

Well I'm not against putting portals with Dana 60 Cs. You forget I got them magic ball joint deletes in my garage waiting for just such an instance.

 

[mrblaine]

Well I'm not against putting portals with Dana 60 Cs. You forget I got them magic ball joint deletes in my garage waiting for just such an instance.

Is there some magic where they add material around the ball joint hole in the inner C?

Also, contemplate what needs to happen to your suspension geometry.

 

[someguysjeep]

Also, contemplate what needs to happen to your suspension geometry.

shiny is always the best bait, no?

though they are cool as shit, this comment i have seen b4 and wondered a bit. would the appropriate action have to be dropping the lower link connection points to combat this leverage effect?

 

[B00mb00m]

shiny is always the best bait, no?

though they are cool as shit, this comment i have seen b4 and wondered a bit. would the appropriate action have to be dropping the lower link connection points to combat this leverage effect?

I was thinking the links would work essentially the same?

 

[someguysjeep]

I was thinking the links would work essentially the same?

IDK he's mentioned it at least 2x now when portals pop up in a convo. not much room to raise the upper links to add stabilization and i'd assume you'd want to open the link spread to fight the increased leverage he mentions and down is the only way for us to go.

but i think the other points more valid can the C hold it.

 

[mrblaine]

I was thinking the links would work essentially the same?

Go to your rear axle, move the lowers up until they are 4" above centerline. Move the uppers up by the same amount that you moved the lowers from their original starting point or any other place that makes you happy.

Now go try to climb something.

Your link placement is based around the centerline of the tire. When you bolt on a portal, you are moving that considerably lower.

 

[Fughuert]

So what do you do deal with shortcomings of link placement like everything with portals seems to do or negate the point of portals and mount your links lower?

 

[mrblaine]

So what do you do deal with shortcomings of link placement like everything with portals seems to do or negate the point of portals and mount your links lower?

Portals showed up years ago in rock crawling events where you needed both clearance and geometry to navigate the courses and do the steep climbs. The only rig I ever saw that did a reasonably good job of addressing the geometry issue had mounts welded to the lower part of the portal box and small links that were bent for clearance.

Others tried them conventionally and they never did well in competition after the switch. Some even tried fairly heavy leaf spring packs to get the geometry to work and they were never as successful as they used to be.

I know of a few rigs in KOH in the unlimited class that have them. I don't know that they have actually finished a race yet. I am not up to date on how the Broncos are doing but I understand they will be doing their best to buy the stock class and maybe the stock mod class this year. Buy sounds bit on the facetious side but when they are in those classes with factory built rigs that are north of a quarter million per copy, it is hard to look at it any other way.

It also just occurred to me that the easy way to understand some of the geometry issues is to chat with all the folks that have converted YJ's and CJ's to spring over. I don't know that anyone has yet perfected an axle wrap bar that isn't eventually compromised.

 

[someguysjeep]

i don't really have a clue, just a guess, but i'd figure you'd want those lower links pulled way down. almost like the JK runs it's rear shock mounts, real low and tight in beside the wheels or in this case right up tight to the back of that drop knuckle gear box.

funny as hell....... now all the JK guys gotta rebuy stock BS rims.
and that's the back 1/2, at best. it's still needs a gear set and cover b4 that reaches full mass, yes?

it's just way to much for a stock JK axle to handle................it's gonna take all of 1 hot minute for a handful of those to be snatched and mounted. but in the end the only thing gonna be smilin is that axle.

 

[mrblaine]

i don't really have a clue, just a guess, but i'd figure you'd want those lower links pulled way down. almost like the JK runs it's rear shock mounts, real low and tight in beside the wheels or in this case right up tight to the back of that drop knuckle gear box.

funny as hell....... now all the JK guys gotta rebuy stock BS rims.
and that's the back 1/2, at best. it's still needs a gear set and cover b4 that reaches full mass, yes?

it's just way to much for a stock JK axle to handle................it's gonna take all of 1 hot minute for a handful of those to be snatched and mounted. but in the end the only thing gonna be smilin is that axle.

 

[someguysjeep]

View attachment 297108

toss me a breadcrumb here.
the construction is about consistent with what it would take to bolster the tubes, not a fan of the truss and my guess is neither is the stock oil pan,
assist to full hydro would be on the list for anything above a 37" wheel to me anyways,

 

[mrblaine]

toss me a breadcrumb here.
the construction is about consistent with what it would take to bolster the tubes, not a fan of the truss and my guess is neither is the stock oil pan,
assist to full hydro would be on the list for anything above a 37" wheel to me anyways,

JK has for shit ball joints. The knuckles aren't much if any more robust than the TJ. Doesn't matter if a tire size requires full hydro or not, there is no JK OEM based front axle that can handle full hydro.

 

[someguysjeep]

JK has for shit ball joints. The knuckles aren't much if any more robust than the TJ. Doesn't matter if a tire size requires full hydro or not, there is no JK OEM based front axle that can handle full hydro.

preaching to the converted. nothin from the tubes to the C's is gonna handle any part of that without major construction and rework with beefier parts at which point an upgrade becomes the obvious path.

the reason i'm so disappointed. i could do it and get all the material for free and it's still not worth it unless i can start with 1/2" wall tubes.

are you familiar with or do you have an opinion of the older 79 ford F250 hp 44?

 

[mrblaine]

preaching to the converted. nothin from the tubes to the C's is gonna handle any part of that without major construction and rework with beefier parts at which point an upgrade becomes the obvious path.

the reason i'm so disappointed. i could do it and get all the material for free and it's still not worth it unless i can start with 1/2" wall tubes.

are you familiar with or do you have an opinion of the older 79 ford F250 hp 44?

You should quit worrying about it quite so much, go use the rig you've worked so hard to build and let that tell you what you need. For all you know, you could get 5 years out of it and only do minor maintenance.