DrDmoney’s 2000 Jeep Wrangler Sport

[voodooridr]

I recently changed the wrap on my trail doors, they used to be black carbon faux-ber in a satin finish, they looked good enough to fool most people. I tried a yellow carbon fiber in a gloss finish thinking if it didn’t color match perfectly the pattern would help blend...I was wrong.

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DAMMIT!! now I need half doors
that yellow is really close to a perfect match

 

[DrDmoney]

DAMMIT!! now I need half doors
that yellow is really close to a perfect match

With the backing on the wrap the color matches almost perfect, with a dark primer on the door it would have been a better match but if I’m going to primer I might as well paint match.

 

[bobthetj03]

Polishing up the hood, fender, quarter will help once you paint them.

 

[bobthetj03]

Also, yellow is a lot like red in that the pigment is translucent and will require extra coats of base for hiding. The primer color can really effect the outcome.

 

[DrDmoney]

Fixed a leak in the Atlas, the speedo never really seated fully when I installed it and had started bleeding RedLine gear oil into the skid plate. I checked the O-ring and it wasn’t cut but I replaced it anyway and topped it off. While I was down there I drained the oil (love that Stahlbus drain valve) and both differentials, the front looked good but the rear was full of emulsion (word of the month)
Filled them both back up with Valvoline 85W-140 and because Lube Lockers aren’t available for the G2’s proprietary covers I sealed the with Permatex Ultra Black Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone. I checked my toe in and broke down the front beadlocks to clean and put fresh anti seize all over the bolts as well as everything in the shop, re-torqued the bolts and 2 more to go and my Jeep is ready for Moab. Now to freshen up the tow vehicle and trailer.

 

[Alex01]

I saw the same leak on my atlas because of the speedo gear bolt. Now I'm thinking I need to add a bit of thread locker to it...

Do you run balance beads, or similar, in the wheels or were they balanced by a shop?

 

[DrDmoney]

I saw the same leak on my atlas because of the speedo gear bolt. Now I'm thinking I need to add a bit of thread locker to it...

Do you run balance beads, or similar, in the wheels or were they balanced by a shop?

They were balanced by the shop with stick ons, TBH 2 of my wheels have lost weights and some have pieces of lug plus wear and I don’t have any issues with balance vibes.

 

[Alex01]

They were balanced by the shop with stick ones, TBH 2 of my wheels have lost weights and some have pieces of lug plus wear and I don’t have any issues with balance vibes.

Can a normal shop balance BL wheels or is it a specialty thing? - asking for a friend.

 

[DrDmoney]

Can a normal shop balance BL wheels or is it a specialty thing? - asking for a friend.

The big box guys don’t like to do it but smaller shops will mount and balance. I would mount them myself and have them balance them.

 

[DrDmoney]

Can a normal shop balance BL wheels or is it a specialty thing? - asking for a friend.

This is who did mine.

https://folsomtirepros.com/

 

[bobthetj03]

@Alex, you need an intervention brother, lol!

 

[DrDmoney]

Can a normal shop balance BL wheels or is it a specialty thing? - asking for a friend.

Tell your friend to deflate and re-torque them after a 100 miles-ish or so after initial install

 

[Alex01]

@Alex, you need an intervention brother, lol!

I'm running a cost analysis on therapy vs jeep parts. The break even is hard to nail down though.

 

[DrDmoney]

I'm running a cost analysis on therapy vs jeep parts. The break even is hard to nail down though.

It’s all about tangibles for me, if you can’t touch it, you got bupkis.

 

[bobthetj03]

You could do what Chris did and buy your wife a new set of (enter justification here) to help provide clarity.

 

[DrDmoney]

I know I said no major mods before Moab but I finally made a forming die for my HF press that I converted to air over hydraulic. @mrblaine gave me the idea and I had a 1-1/8” structural steel pin that I cut in half and welded to some 1/2” plate.

I was checking it out with a scrap of 6000 series and before you know it I was fabbing something else that he inspired.

 

[DrDmoney]

Spent most of the weekend freshening up my tow vehicle, 05 Ram 3500 Single rear wheel, Quad cab 4x4, but in between draining or filling one fluid or the other I also recalibrated my Coyote deflators. I tried this once before with the spare tire and got them close before I got tired of the not so ergonomic confined workspace and I left two of them at what I thought was just a half psi off. I salvaged an old compressor tank to repurpose as a potable air tank around the property. I used a low pressure gauge for gas pipe testing and a shraeder valve, this gave me a high volume low pressure sit down workspace to calibrate the deflators.

Only one of the deflators was at 8 psi the rest were 8.5, 9.2, and 9.6. One thing I’m not fond of the rings that are on them and I might source something different or leave them off. I put about 12 psi in the tank then screwed a deflator on and let it bleed down till it stopped then I loosened the jamb nut and backed (counter clockwise) to take pressure off the spring in small increments then snugging the jamb nut up so it didn’t affect the pressure setting

I went a little too far with the last one and ended up adding pressure back which made it take the longest, all in all I spent an hour and a half including plumbing the tank.

After setting them all I ran them again and all were good.

 

[Midnight LJR]

Spent most of the weekend freshening up my tow vehicle, 05 Ram 3500 Single rear wheel, Quad cab 4x4, but in between draining or filling one fluid or the other I also recalibrated my Coyote deflators. I tried this once before with the spare tire and got the close before I got tired of the not so ergonomic confined workspace and I left two of them at what I thought was just a half psi off. I salvaged an old compressor tank to repurpose as a potable air tank around the property. I used a low pressure gauge for gas pipe testing and a shraeder valve, this gave me a high volume low pressure sit down workspace to calibrate the deflators.

Only one of the deflators was at 8 psi the rest were 8.5, 9.2, and 9.6. One thing I’m not fond of the rings that are on them and I might source something different or leave them off. I put about 12 psi in the tank then screwed a deflator on and let it bleed down till it stopped the I loosened the jamb nut and backed (counter clockwise) to take pressure off the spring in small increments then snugging the jamb nut up so it didn’t affect the pressure setting
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I went a little too far with the last one and ended up adding pressure back which made it take the longest, all in all I spent an hour and a half including plumbing the tank.

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After setting them all I ran them again and all were good.

That is nifty!

 

[bobthetj03]

Too much time on your hands dude, lol! Crafty none the less!

 

[DrDmoney]

Finally broke down and decided to fix the damage to the back of my tub, it was damaged when a stationary object hit me while I was backing up. The damage to the tub was fairly minor but it has started stress cracking the sheet metal around the lower hinge mount. First step is plug weld all the holes.

For now I plan on installing the MORryde Tailgate Reinforcement Kit, I might go back to the GR Aluminum Swing Out Carrier at some point but I’m giving this a fair shake. One thing I miss about the gate mounted spare is the ease of opening, I used to run a modified (cut down, centered, and raised) factory carrier on stock hinges for years with no damage to the gate or hinges but it was difficult to lock and unlock the latch as the spare was very close to the gate and partially covering the pull, the swing out solved this and raised the spare for better departure angle.

One thing I noted right away was how heavy the MORryde was compared to the GR, I’ll have to get a weight on both.

I have also seen where others with flush mount taillights have had to deal with the tub reinforcement plate partially covering the light and or grommet requiring some modding of the plate or the grommet, I chose to cut the plate back. I used a 2” hole saw to move the inside radius’s in and cut the excess plate with a recip saw.

Also instead of a Mid-Arm, how about a Mid-Axle