Drive Shaft Rubs on Transfer Case Skid

Brannon

Brannon

Seeking Overland Adventures
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Sep 3, 2019
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El Paso. TX
About 6 months after I had my AX-15 rebuilt and mount replaced, a number of syncros were bad, my front driveshaft started rubbing on the transfer case skid plate. This didn't happen when driving in a straight line but when turning. I was able to put some spacers between the skid the frame to temporarily fix the problem but I need to know what changed that caused the rubbing. I am about to get my clutch replaced and I think this would be a good time to get this fixed properly. I didn't perform the work and I will not be doing the clutch replacement. After the the AX-15 was worked on, I moved halfway across the country.

What could have caused this?
 
My driveshaft hit the forward skid plate crossbar so I cut out part of the crossbar & welded in a reinforcement that clears the drive shaft--that solved the problem.
 
front DS contacting a stock skid at full droop not unheard of especially if shocks too long. But if it only started after they replaced synchros thats concerning.

more concerning is why it only happens when turning. you need to have someone help you do a dry steer test and figure out what's moving that shouldn't be.

why the shit didn't they replace the clutch while the had the transmission out? they should have at least offered. probably just wanted to double charge you for labor later.
 
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  • The long arm was installed 7 years prior to this problem.
  • I had a 4WheelParts location replace all the joints test at full articulation and nothing is rubbing.
  • There are were never spacers between the skid and the frame/Fabtech lowering kit.
  • Maybe the spacer, if there was one, between the skid and the transmount was not put back in.
  • The clutch was replaced when the sycros were replaced.
  • When it turn and and travel around a corner, suspension slightly flexed, is when it rubbed. About 1/4" worth of washers were used as spacers to lower the front of the skid.
    • Since then, I had three of the rive-nut fail and bolts fall out of the skid plate (All forward locations, two on the right and 1 on the left). I have the kit from Blaine to replace those.
  • -Right now I don't have access to the jeep it is at the garage, dropped it on 3/28/2022. Engine is coming out and be rebuilt into a 4.6. Russ Pottenger is supplying all parts for the stroker. I anticipate 2 months until I get it back.
  • Back in the day I had room and time and the physical ability to do more work myself but that is not the case anymore.
 
cut the front lip of the skid off where it rubs with a grinder and be done with it then. sounds like you've got the rest figured out.
 
From what you've posted sounds like the driveshafts has been rubbing for a good while, your clutch burnt out premature, or you just want a new clutch with the 4.6 install.

4.6...Sounds like money's not a factor, tell the shop to fix it and be done with it. after a whole engine swap seems like trimming a skid could be a freebie.
 
I appreciate everyones response and thank you for taking the time to read and reply.

Money not a major concern. I just want to know what caused this rubbing when it didn't rub before? I really don't see the phylsophy of it is there is a problem just cut it off? How about have it put back the way it was before it rubbed? I just don't know what could have been done during the transmission rebuild that caused the rubbing, That is what I was hoping the group could shed some light on the possibilities and things to check.
 
So the drive shaft now rubs just when turning? And not when suspension is drooped? It’s common at full droop but not at ride height.
A
Is it possible they swapped out your AX15?The AX15s from cherokees and Dakota’s have a different clocking bolt holes and the tcase is clocked lower. Just an idea.
 
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Brannon said:
…
  • Since then, I had three of the rive-nut fail and bolts fall out of the skid plate (All forward locations, two on the right and 1 on the left). I have the kit from Blaine to replace those.
  • …
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I thought there were 6 bolts holding the skid plate. Regardless, if three of your bolts are currently missing, I would not be surprised if the skid plate has shifted which could cause the rubbing.

Pictures would help. Full disclosure, I’ve completely forgotten what a stock setup looks like down there, so I’m guessing just a bit.
 
My guess is a couple things contributed here. It'd likely you were very close before. Then, when a new mount was added, and the skid removed and replaced for the transmission fix, things shifted ever so slightly, causing the rub.
 
A quick update, maybe not so quick. Jeep is still in the shop. Shop took 2 months to pull the engine for a stroker rebuild. Then 4 more months until the engine came back from the machine shop. 2 months after that the engine was installed. During first startup and cam break in mechanic heard what he described as a lower engine knock so he shut it down immediately. During that start the engine got up to temperature and oil pressure was good. Needless to say the engine was pulled again and sent to machine shop for inspection. Machine shop wanted a new piston, rod and wrist pin. As of today the engine made it back from the machine shop but has not been installed. I am being told persistent dust/sand storms was the deciding factor not to unwrap the engine in install header and oil pan.

Back to the the bolt I received from Mr Blaine to replace the missing ones in the transfer case skid. Mechanic said that the bolt are too short. There were tried in the empty holes and in holes after removing existing bolts. I ordered the "1.5" T-Case Skid Drop SAE 1/2-13 Nutserts 87-02 Jeep YJ/TJ (#05)" but those are too short. When I finally get the jeep back "If I ever Do" I will pull a good bolt and measure it before I try and find replacements.
 
Brannon said:
Jeep is still in the shop. Shop took 2 months to pull the engine for a stroker rebuild. Then 4 more months until the engine came back from the machine shop. 2 months after that the engine was installed. During first startup and cam break in mechanic heard what he described as a lower engine knock so he shut it down immediately. During that start the engine got up to temperature and oil pressure was good. Needless to say the engine was pulled again and sent to machine shop for inspection. Machine shop wanted a new piston, rod and wrist pin. As of today the engine made it back from the machine shop but has not been installed.
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Can you post the names of these shops, so nobody else ever uses them? I thought Grandma was slow, but she was 102. :unsure:
 
TheBoogieman said:
Can you post the names of these shops, so nobody else ever uses them? I thought Grandma was slow, but she was 102. :unsure:
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I will post the names of these shops when I get the jeep back. Until then I will share them via a Direct Message (DM). What I don't want is retribution from the shop if I report negatively on them.
 
Brannon said:
Back to the the bolt I received from Mr Blaine to replace the missing ones in the transfer case skid. Mechanic said that the bolt are too short. There were tried in the empty holes and in holes after removing existing bolts. I ordered the "1.5" T-Case Skid Drop SAE 1/2-13 Nutserts 87-02 Jeep YJ/TJ (#05)" but those are too short. When I finally get the jeep back "If I ever Do" I will pull a good bolt and measure it before I try and find replacements.
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I suspect that rather than the bolt being too short, perhaps there are no threads for it to screw into up in the frame?

The bolt length answer is just basic math. If we take the bolt that is used for no drop at all and set it up to add a 1 1/2" spacer between the belly skid and frame, then it uses a bolt that is 1 1/2" longer than the one that works without a spacer.






1682434326906.png


If that bolt doesn't work, then the problem is no threads in the frame or the spacer to drop the skid is thicker than 1 1/2".
 
The wrist pin was loose in both the rod and piston? Suspicious they didn't notice it on assembly

I feel you on the wait. It took me over 6 months to get all my parts and have a machine shop put the bottom end together in my russ spec stroker
 
Rickyd said:
The wrist pin was loose in both the rod and piston? Suspicious they didn't notice it on assembly

I feel you on the wait. It took me over 6 months to get all my parts and have a machine shop put the bottom end together in my russ spec stroker
Click to expand...

July will be 3 years for us.
 
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