Driveshaft issues

[MtnRanger160]

It started with a bad vibration that I thought was just misalignment. I had some issues getting my axles squared due to some other work I did, but since came out on top. I heard a grinding noise that sounded like it was coming from the front driveshaft so I replaced the centering yoke and the u-joints....no change. I still had the damn vibration so I took the rear shaft apart and replaced a well worn out u-joint that got rid of most of the vibration, but still had this terrible grinding noise that sounded like gears and picked up with speed. So, I then took the rear DS off and drove around, all vibrations were gone! My centering ball did not have a spring and I'm not too sure if it was supposed to have needle bearings in it? There were a few loose needle bearings in it when I replaced the u-joint, so I'm inclined to think it should.

Here's my issue now. I don't like this damn flange on the SYE the PO had put on. The driveshaft would probably go back together and work well if I replace the centering yoke and H-collar, but I hate fighting this flange and I completely stripped the hell out of one particular bolt and really don't want to mess with that again. In your experience, would it be better to just suck it up and get a different drive shaft? I want to move up to Metalcloak 4.5" springs and am currently sitting on 4" Rancho's I believe (PO had put on). I know I would need to get a different yoke to make a new shaft work.

Is it worth the trouble to get rid of the flange and move to a simple yoke on the SYE? Can I simply just get the right yoke with splines and bolt it down after I take the flange off?

 

[NashvilleTJ]

There is nothing wrong with running a flange. I run them both front and rear and for me I find it easier to swap a shaft when necessary. But either is fine - personal preference. As long as you have not damaged the flange when you stripped the bolt, no need to go to the expense of replacing it.

Regardless, that’s not your issue. It could certainly be that the double cardan still needs to be rebuilt, even though you already replaced the U-joints. It certainly sounds like the centering joint could be fried.

The noise also could be coming from the rear end, but get the driveshaft resolved first and see what happens.

 

[Goatman]

What angles are you running in the driveshafts f&r? What type of trans (and motor) mount are you running? Polly can send a vibe into the Jeep that rubber can better absorb. Fluids good thru entire drivetrain? Possible axle bearings or Ujoints or even brakes?

 

[EzPeezy]

There should be a spring and needle bearings i. The centering ball. If they aren't there they've turned to dust.

 

[Blackjack]

You will need to make sure that post where the needles ride is not damaged. I should measure exactly .5 inch and be smooth and round. Nothing wrong with the flange you just need the correct fasteners for it.

 

[MtnRanger160]

There is nothing wrong with running a flange. I run them both front and rear and for me I find it easier to swap a shaft when necessary. But either is fine - personal preference. As long as you have not damaged the flange when you stripped the bolt, no need to go to the expense of replacing it.

Regardless, that’s not your issue. It could certainly be that the double cardan still needs to be rebuilt, even though you already replaced the U-joints. It certainly sounds like the centering joint could be fried.

The noise also could be coming from the rear end, but get the driveshaft resolved first and see what happens.

I did put in an LSD a few months back but that thing has been solid, and I got much help on this forum verifying that one. I read somewhere that when the rear u-joints go, the centering joint is not long after. rebuilding that driveshaft surely seems like the cheapest and least time consuming

 

[MtnRanger160]

What angles are you running in the driveshafts f&r? What type of trans (and motor) mount are you running? Polly can send a vibe into the Jeep that rubber can better absorb. Fluids good thru entire drivetrain? Possible axle bearings or Ujoints or even brakes?

They're basically right in line with the pinions, maybe .5 to 1 degree lower. 6-speed manual and running all rubber bushings. Replaced all body mount bushings 2k ago. Fluids are all legit, I was worried about the transfer case because I never checked it before but i popped my finger in the fill hole and came out basically full.

 

[MtnRanger160]

There should be a spring and needle bearings i. The centering ball. If they aren't there they've turned to dust.

the u-joint I pulled out spilled black dust everywhere and not a single needle bearing or grease came out from one of the cups. But for sure, I didn't see any spring in the rear drive centering ball but there was some loose needle bearings, not as many as I thought there would've been.

 

[MtnRanger160]

You will need to make sure that post where the needles ride is not damaged. I should measure exactly .5 inch and be smooth and round. Nothing wrong with the flange you just need the correct fasteners for it.

thanks! I'll measure it for sure the next time I get after it.

 

[MtnRanger160]

Anyone know how much free play there should be on the transfer case output (I think that's what it is). My backlash in the rear was right at .005 but where the output shaft is it definitely rotates about 15 degrees both ways. Is this normal? Probably easier for me to post a video...don't think I explained it very well.