Engine temp at idle without a thermostat installed

[mrblaine]

We fired up the 97 to start going through everything in preparation for getting it to paint. We were filling the radiator and it did the big coolant burp which is a pretty good indication that there isn't a bleed hole in the thermostat flange. I'm not gonna play that game so we pulled it and decided to do a water flush to switch over to the Mopar 5 year coolant. We found some gelled coolant in the thermostat housing so we replaced that.

Anyway, we were running it a lot to circulate the coolant through the engine and I decided to check it with the DRB to see what it runs at idle on a 60 degree day with no thermostat. 130 degrees, that's it and it would not go any higher.

I was right about the thermostat. No bleed hole, not even a jiggler. Drilled a 1/8" hole in the flange of the Mopar version next to the jiggler and zero issues getting it bled. No burp, air bubbles right up into the funnel. Bring it to temp, circulate, pop the funnel off, cap on, no problems.

 

[Lax22]

I add this bleed hole every time I do a cooling system refresh on a 4.0l. Really helps with bleeding the system.

 

[Jezza]

I used to drill a hole in all my t-stats as well. It defiantly helped when I was filling the system with a spill free funnel setup. About 10 years ago or so I bought an airlift setup and never looked back. I don't drill the holes in everything anymore as the airlift doesn't care, but I may on the Jeep in case I have to do a trail fill up.

 

[CaliSteve]

We fired up the 97 to start going through everything in preparation for getting it to paint. We were filling the radiator and it did the big coolant burp which is a pretty good indication that there isn't a bleed hole in the thermostat flange. I'm not gonna play that game so we pulled it and decided to do a water flush to switch over to the Mopar 5 year coolant. We found some gelled coolant in the thermostat housing so we replaced that.

Anyway, we were running it a lot to circulate the coolant through the engine and I decided to check it with the DRB to see what it runs at idle on a 60 degree day with no thermostat. 130 degrees, that's it and it would not go any higher.

I was right about the thermostat. No bleed hole, not even a jiggler. Drilled a 1/8" hole in the flange of the Mopar version next to the jiggler and zero issues getting it bled. No burp, air bubbles right up into the funnel. Bring it to temp, circulate, pop the funnel off, cap on, no problems.

You are making good progress on that ride, am eager to see it after paint.

 

[mrblaine]

I used to drill a hole in all my t-stats as well. It defiantly helped when I was filling the system with a spill free funnel setup. About 10 years ago or so I bought an airlift setup and never looked back. I don't drill the holes in everything anymore as the airlift doesn't care, but I may on the Jeep in case I have to do a trail fill up.

If you are talking about the vacuum set ups, we tried one, it didn't work as well on the TJ as the bleed hole does. If you are saying that there is something much better about the Airlift stuff, then I will hunt one down and try it.

 

[mrblaine]

You are making good progress on that ride, am eager to see it after paint.

Getting it to paint is about 1/2 way there. Still have to get all the stuff prepped for powder coating, get that over and done, then after paint try to get it all installed without fucking something up. I still have a plethora of problems to solve but I'm certainly a lot closer than I've ever been.

Finding the gelled coolant was a big set back timewise. We were just going to flush out the green and move to the pink. It did the big coolant burp, swap thermostat, see gel, alright screw this. Swapped on the new heater hoses, new radiator hoses, new radiator, new coolant, new water pump, new thermostat housing. Most of a day instead of most of an hour.

 

[Jezza]

If you are talking about the vacuum set ups, we tried one, it didn't work as well on the TJ as the bleed hole does. If you are saying that there is something much better about the Airlift stuff, then I will hunt one down and try it.

The vacuum setup. Airlift is just the brand. I was a skeptic, but I had a Porsche that I had to bleed and that is about the only reasonable way to do it. Now I use it on everything. I will say the system needs to be empty or close to empty or it won't work well. Also I had an employee once that bought a knockoff version from Ebay or whatever and it didn't work at all.

 

[mrblaine]

The vacuum setup. Airlift is just the brand. I was a skeptic, but I had a Porsche that I had to bleed and that is about the only reasonable way to do it. Now I use it on everything. I will say the system needs to be empty or close to empty or it won't work well. Also I had an employee once that bought a knockoff version from Ebay or whatever and it didn't work at all.

Can you send me a link or model number of the one you use? I'll check the one I have but the problem it has is once any coolant contaminates the vacuum nozzle, it stops working.

 

[Jezza]

Can you send me a link or model number of the one you use? I'll check the one I have but the problem it has is once any coolant contaminates the vacuum nozzle, it stops working.

Airlift UV 550000

https://www.tooltopia.com/UView-UV-...kYvBcrcuXre6oCXD1oHQWyP0kQxae9F0aAv7dEALw_wcB
That is why the system has to be empty. If coolant starts going through the venturi nozzle it looses vacuum. On a good system mine will pull 25 to 28 inches of vacuum.

 

[mrblaine]

Airlift UV 550000

https://www.tooltopia.com/UView-UV-...kYvBcrcuXre6oCXD1oHQWyP0kQxae9F0aAv7dEALw_wcB
That is why the system has to be empty. If coolant starts going through the venturi nozzle it looses vacuum. On a good system mine will pull 25 to 28 inches of vacuum.

I'll check but I think that is the one I have since I tend to avoid the knock off bullshit for something I need to work. The only time we would use it is on a complete rework where there is only distilled water in the engine block.

 

[williambmac]

If you are talking about the vacuum set ups, we tried one, it didn't work as well on the TJ as the bleed hole does. If you are saying that there is something much better about the Airlift stuff, then I will hunt one down and try it.

I always drill a bleed hole. As for the Airlift, it's ok but doesn't work well in every application. I actually sold mine.
I've had better luck using the Kent-Moore tool. It's expensive AF though.

https://www.tillmantools.com/Kent-Moore-GE-47716-Coolant-Refill-System-p/kmtge-47716.htm

 

[mrblaine]

I always drill a bleed hole. As for the Airlift, it's ok but doesn't work well in every application. I actually sold mine.
I've had better luck using the Kent-Moore tool. It's expensive AF though.

https://www.tillmantools.com/Kent-Moore-GE-47716-Coolant-Refill-System-p/kmtge-47716.htm

I've never not had the bleed hole work on a TJ.

 

[mrblaine]

I always drill a bleed hole. As for the Airlift, it's ok but doesn't work well in every application. I actually sold mine.
I've had better luck using the Kent-Moore tool. It's expensive AF though.

https://www.tillmantools.com/Kent-Moore-GE-47716-Coolant-Refill-System-p/kmtge-47716.htm

Yeah, that's not gonna happen when a bleed hole works every time.

 

[TRE3TOP]

Can you post a pic of one with the hole drilled please?

 

[TJ4Jim]

Can you post a pic of one with the hole drilled please?

Something like this, and the hole goes to the 12 position.

 

[Moglocker]

Something like this, and the hole goes to the 12 position.

View attachment 299961

My mopar had a captured ball bearing in it

 

[williambmac]

Yeah, that's not gonna happen when a bleed hole works every time.

With all the engine work I used to do, it was a necessity. I got mine from a Chevy dealer that went out of business.

 

[mrblaine]

With all the engine work I used to do, it was a necessity. I got mine from a Chevy dealer that went out of business.

I would have done the same.