Exhaust Manifold Replacement Walk-Through?

macleanflood said:
I just did mine today...took about 4 hours...was fairly painless and that's saying a lot for this Jeep...took a month to change the clutch with some stuck bolts. I'm just estatic I took something apart and put it all back together in the same day... didn't break anything or need to run to town for parts. Used the Banks torque tubes.

View attachment 287308
Click to expand...
Nice work! Any lessons learned in the process?
 
SSTJ said:
Nice work! Any lessons learned in the process?
Click to expand...
15 mm ratcheting wrench is going to be your best friend. Some of the bolts are not really visible...so your on your back (unless you have a lift) fishing bolts with tips of fingers with your arms fully extended. Torque wrench doesn't fit on anything. Clean surfaces and then clean em again. Might as well do your valve cover gasket while it's accessible. Was thinking about making a video since most of them on YouTube don't cover the extreme bolt fishing. And antiseize!

-Mac
 
  • Like
Reactions: glowell222, PauoaTJ, SSTJ and 1 other person
SSTJ said:
This is really great, thank you. Going to read this alongside the FSM before I tackle the job.

Are you happy with the manifold you chose?
Click to expand...
Yeah. I am sure it will crack like all the others, but for the price and the fit, I would definitely purchase it again.

This is a very easy procedure on our engines, so even if it lasts only 2-3 years, ill be happy. to be honest, I kind of look forward to swapping it out again. The 4.0 owners have it much worse.
 
Hey @macleanflood and @SvtLdr, is it a 14mm or 15mm flex socket that I'll need? One of you said one and the other said the other.

I know, I should just go check the FSM or get under my Jeep, but I'm doing my homework from the office between calls. :)
 
SSTJ said:
Hey @macleanflood and @SvtLdr, is it a 14mm or 15mm flex socket that I'll need? One of you said one and the other said the other.

I know, I should just go check the FSM or get under my Jeep, but I'm doing my homework from the office between calls. :)
Click to expand...
It appears that the tapped holes in the cylinder head are 3/8"-16. You could use a 9/16" or a 14mm socket on the bolts. For some reason a 14mm fit better for me so that's what I ended up buying part way thru the project.
 
  • Like
Reactions: SSTJ
SvtLdr said:
It appears that the tapped holes in the cylinder head are 3/8"-16. You could use a 9/16" or a 14mm socket on the bolts. For some reason a 14mm fit better for me so that's what I ended up buying part way thru the project.
Click to expand...
And my 97 it was all 15mm heads. Should have replaced the hardware but didn't.

All I needed was a racheting box wrench.

Either I don't have the original bolts or I didn't bother trying a SAE.

-Mac
 
  • Like
Reactions: SSTJ
SSTJ,

If I’m not mistaken, we both have the 2.5l. I’ve replaced my exhaust manifold several times now. It’s a little intimidating to get started, but once you do it, it’s easy peasy. No need to remove a fender. Just get in there and do if. I like to put painters tape on all the electrical connections and label each one so that I know where to connect it back. It’s not that bad. A mechanic friend even showed me how a wiring harness will have “muscle memory” in the sense that if you shake it out into place, it will lay down as it used to be, like it remembers it’s position.

Oh yeah, when you pull the fuel rail, be sure to keep up with all the o-rings. Some people say to change them. I never have. Just a little lube to slide them back in.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: SSTJ
SvtLdr said:
It appears that the tapped holes in the cylinder head are 3/8"-16. You could use a 9/16" or a 14mm socket on the bolts. For some reason a 14mm fit better for me so that's what I ended up buying part way thru the project.
Click to expand...
@SSTJ, I overlooked the fact that you're working on a 2.5L. My experience has only been with the 4.0L.
 
  • Like
Reactions: SSTJ
Top Bottom
Back