Flat tow disaster
- Thread starter TahoeJohnny
- Start date
My M.O. was to just rebuild the stock driveshaft with new Spicer centering yoke and 3 new u joints.
That sounds like a good plan. I'll need to buy a decent U Joint tool, I've always wanted one but never bought one. I don't have a shop press either.
Two sockets and a 3lb hammer is my favorite. I've tried presses and vises and nothing works as well as just beating it out. One socket just smaller than the cup and one socket big enough for the cup to fit inside.
I used to spend an hour or two on one u-joint, once I started beating them, a whole new world opened up. I'm pretty sure my last CV shaft was done inside 45 minutes.
That's how I do them although I've only done a few over the years. I just thought having a U Joint press would make it better, and less likely to damage a yoke, but maybe not?
Hammer method is best method
You are actually much more likely to damage the yoke with a press. Shock load is what breaks a stuck cap loose - which comes with impact. A stuck end cap in a press has no shock load, and the ears can bend before the cap moves.
Looks like I'll keep doing it the same way then, glad I asked.
Well, crap - I just picked up a Ready Brute II tow bar, and had big plans to setup our rig for flat-towing behind our F150.
This is the 2nd incident of a Rubicon, specifically, having t-case issues with flat-towing that I've heard of on the forum. I also had a trusted shop talk to me without any prompting from me about any plans to tow this type of rig - their recommendation was to flatbed trailer it due to seeing a handful of TJR's specifically have t-case issues after flat-towing that they had to fix.
(I don't want to seem like I'm perpetuating a "myth" about TJR's, but it definitely was their opinion that TJ's with the 231 setup were fine and that the 241/SYE seemed to be problematic, for whatever reason)
Personally, I'm definitely reconsidering what we'll do. Many of the wheeling spots we want to go to are at least 250+ miles away.
I feel like my options are:
This is the 2nd incident of a Rubicon, specifically, having t-case issues with flat-towing that I've heard of on the forum. I also had a trusted shop talk to me without any prompting from me about any plans to tow this type of rig - their recommendation was to flatbed trailer it due to seeing a handful of TJR's specifically have t-case issues after flat-towing that they had to fix.
(I don't want to seem like I'm perpetuating a "myth" about TJR's, but it definitely was their opinion that TJ's with the 231 setup were fine and that the 241/SYE seemed to be problematic, for whatever reason)
Personally, I'm definitely reconsidering what we'll do. Many of the wheeling spots we want to go to are at least 250+ miles away.
I feel like my options are:
- drive it there w/o a tow rig. (I'd be fine with this, I think, but not sure my wife and youngest would approve, nor would we have any room for much gear)
- Flat tow, but spend the time to disco driveshafts each time we tow. (time-consuming, and nasty, especially if the rig is muddy, but protects the drivetrain and would definitely provide peace of mind)
- Go back to the idea of trailering. (costly, have to store a trailer, and our truck would need to have a few parts installed to properly tow)
The rear shaft rarely has an issue. They do, just not very often. That means you could do a hub kit up front, unlock them for flat towing and only have to deal with one driveshaft. A bit of prep work and the right tool and that's a 2 minute job.
it'll definitely affect the lifespan of the u-joints and the centering ball because increased operating angle requires each element has to roll farther for every revolution. But it'll happen eventually on any shaft once the grease is gone, so it's just a matter of timing.
Do you mean, why it only "happens" when flat towing? If so, I'm thinking that might be a great question. Not sure of the answer.
It’s not that it only happens with flat towing…it’s just that there is quite a bit of warning that the driveshaft is going south before it explodes a tcase. Most anyone will pay attention to that and stop before it’s an issue. When you are flat towing, you won’t catch that warning…
And, I’m not saying anyone is derelict in their maintenance either, they can go from minor squeak to seized very quickly. But you’ll probably get some wicked vibrations right before it goes.
Yeah, that makes sensse. The big “IF” for me is if the driveshaft was in fact the source of the issue?
Rather than the trans or tcase or both being in the wrong gear. (Or dropping into the wrong gear)
It would very much surprise me if it were anything other than a drive shaft issue