Flat Towing Braking Systems: Your Recommendations and Why?

[Mr. Bills]

Unfortunately, only to test it and confirm the settings.

This Covid lockdown is wearing very thin. It was tolerable before the government closed all the national parks and campgrounds.

If I had known I would be on house arrest this long I would have committed all those petty crimes I've thought about. I'd be out of jail before now.

 

[bobthetj03]

Yep, it's getting old quite fast! I need to pull the trigger on a brake system, and the Rvi3 looks convincing.

 

[Mr. Bills]

I think the key to buying a RVi3 is to either watch for a sale (5% military/former military available every day, 10% off semi frequently, 15% off for Black Friday, etc.) or buy a used but not abused unit from a MH owner who discovered they or their spouse don't like or use MH's as much as they thought.

I like the Rvi3 because it isn't as bulky as the others of that type, thus it fits in a cabinet in my Sprinter inside a laptop bag.

 

[bobthetj03]

Having owned and used a CL Brake Buddy, I can appreciate the added compact design. I'm once bitten, twice shy on buying used again, as I ended up sending the Brake Buddy back to Hopkins for repair when it locked up on me going up SR80 towards Reno. Should have seen how fast I went 4 lanes over to the shoulder doing 65mph in traffic. Not cool!

 

[rancholago]

I use the "Readybrute elite" from NSA
to flat tow my Honda CRV now but am looking for a TJ and will use the same tow bar and braking system for that when I get one.
No box or equipment on the floor board, it uses a surge brake system. No electrical to activate the brakes in the vehicle being towed.
Easy to install and set up.

 

[CaptMisket]

I use the Ready Brake. While it does require a cable run though the engine bay, that's a one time installation.

I like it because it doesn't tap into the Jeep's electrical system, which I wanted to avoid. It's mechanically activated, so there's no risk of failure based on anything electrical, nor brakes locking as I've read can happen with some of the electrical auxiliary systems. It also has an indicator light mounted in my truck that lets me know when the brakes engage.

I attach my tow bar, connect the cable and plug the magnetic towing lights into the truck's standard adapter and that's it.

The brake unit itself runs around $500 and I paired it with a simple Blue Ox tow bar ($275 new, $85 slightly used as I found it). Safety cables and lights were about $90 together, so I'm all in for under $700.

Reliable and very easy to hook up and go. I've been very pleased with the setup thus far.

View attachment 194808

What do you do with the cables when you arrive at your destination? I am going to be flat towing behind an rv. I like the Ready Brake because mechanical not electrical. I see all these videos for installing etc but what happens when you disconnect? All those cables don't remain behind your brake do they?

 

[DaveC]

What do you do with the cables when you arrive at your destination? I am going to be flat towing behind an rv. I like the Ready Brake because mechanical not electrical. I see all these videos for installing etc but what happens when you disconnect? All those cables don't remain behind your brake do they?

The cable that activates the Ready Brake runs thru the firewall on the TJ and is clamped onto the brake pedal. It terminates at the front of my bumper (It's the little hoop you see sticking out on the attached). The portion between there and the Ready Brake itself is a separate section of cable that you attach when towing and store when not. When installing/setting the system up, you adjust the cable to the length you want based on how quickly you want it to activate based on how hard you brake before it kicks in.

I think that's what you were referencing - am I right? The safety cables detach from both the truck and Jeep easily and the lights are magnetic; they plug into the truck's towing harness, run thru the doors/inside of the Jeep and sit on the back bumper - also just pull off and store when not towing.

 

[rancholago]

The cable that activates the Ready Brake runs thru the firewall on the TJ and is clamped onto the brake pedal. It terminates at the front of my bumper (It's the little hoop you see sticking out on the attached). The portion between there and the Ready Brake itself is a separate section of cable that you attach when towing and store when not. When installing/setting the system up, you adjust the cable to the length you want based on how quickly you want it to activate based on how hard you brake before it kicks in.

I think that's what you were referencing - am I right? The safety cables detach from both the truck and Jeep easily and the lights are magnetic; they plug into the truck's towing harness, run thru the doors/inside of the Jeep and sit on the back bumper - also just pull off and store when not towing.

View attachment 232894

Just like Dave C says, just unhook the cables, (from the brake pedal to the front of the vehicle stays on the vehicle all the time, no fuss). Simple cable disconnects right at the front bumper and stays with the tow bar. When I get where I am going the whole thing slides under the RV or it all fits in the back of the vehicle.

 

[HuskerJeep]

I purchased a "used but not abused" RVi3 supplemental brake system on Ebay. It came with everything still in the original box, including a 6-tire Tire Patrol system that I didn't really want or need, but by negotiating with the seller and purchasing as a package worked out to be a better deal than other used units on the market that didn't have the Tire Patrol sensors. It will allow me to sell it as a "complete package" in the event I move on to something else in the future. Cost was one-half of retail even with the 10% coupon code valid at the time, and it appears that it was only used a few times and was in fact purchased as the owner claimed n order to flat tow a Honda behind a Class C motorhome when the owner moved from California to Arizona.

It works quite well, and there were no fitment issues caused by my Weathertech mats. As far as the "command center" is concerned, although it is a bit bulky and I don't really want another screen to look at, it doesn't need to be kept in sight. The "tow rig detached" warning is loud enough to keep the monitor it in the glovebox and after a few times braking one ceases looking to see if the unit is working. Also, settings of the RVi3 can be changed without the commend center if it is lost or destroyed so the thing isn't absolutely necessary for the unit to operate as designed.

I also looked at Brake Buddy systems, but they were too bulky. The Rvi unit squeezes into a 17" padded laptop bag (but barely).

I looked at the Roadmaster Even Brake as well. Roadmaster sells quality products, and my hitch extension, tow bar, safety cables, power cord, etc. are all Roadmaster. The Even Brake appears to be as good or better than a comparable Brake Buddy unit, but it was the bulk of the unit for storage that kept me away.

I briefly considered the Ready Brake surge brake system but in the end decided to stay away from cables, conduits, etc. Also, the price new was about the same as my previously owned Rvi3 and the Ready Brake units I found on the used market were not sufficiently discounted to divert my attention from the RVi3.

For a permanently mounted system I remain persuaded that the Demco Stay and Play Duo is the was to go.



This was my "final" shopping list:

Sourced from e-trailer.com:

Roadmaster High-Low Adapter for Tow Bars - 2" Hitches - 10 1/4" Rise/Drop
11-1/4" Long – 10,000# GTW 400# TW P/N RM-048-10

Roadmaster Falcon All Terrain, Non-Binding Tow Bar
Motorhome Mount - 2" Hitch - 12" shank - 6,000 lbs. P/N RM-522

Adapter for Jeep D-Ring Bumper Mounts to Roadmaster Motor Home Mount Tow Bars
3/4" Thick P/N RM-035

7-Wire to 6-Wire Coiled-to-Straight Cord for Roadmaster Tow Bars
8' Long P/N RM-1676-7

CE Smith Tie-Down Bracket for Boat Trailers
Galvanized Steel - Bolt On, 2 ea., P/N CE26214G
[Used for safety chain attachment points on jeep]

Roadmaster Tow Bar Cover P/N RM-055-3
[Unnecessary, but it allows me to keep the tow bar on the motorhome out of the weather


Sourced on Amazon.com:

Roadmaster 76" Single Hook, Straight Safety Cables
8,000 lbs P/N RM-645-76 [Also available from etrailer.com.]


Sourced on E-Bay:

Previously owned RVi3 Supplemental Brake System with Command Center and 6-tire Tire Patrol.


Sourced locally:

Magnetic Trailer Lights [already on hand in my trailer tow kit]
Hitch pins and clips
Miscellaneous hardware

Do you have a picture of where you mounted the CE Smith Tie-Down brackets for the safety chain attachments?

I'm considering the Currie adapters for the tow bar connection (discussed here in this thread) but I would need a good place to secure the safety chains (OEM bumper, so I don't have D-Rings and I'm not going to loop them over my tow hooks).

 

[Rock Toy]

@Mr. Bills, did you ever install and run the system? I bought one used as well and am heading out on my first trip in a few days. Just picked up some magnetic brake lights as well and need to wire those, as well as the battery charger tomorrow evening. Would love to get your feedback on what you thought and if you had any thoughts. Did you just sit the brake unit on the floorboard of your TJ or did you bolt down a claw/foot to keep it in place? Have any pics?

 

[Mr. Bills]

Yes, it is installed and tested but it hasn't been used other than that. It was easy to "calibrate" and is simple to use.

It just sits on the floorboard, no retainer or foot required.

No pics that I can recall, but I'll look.

 

[bobthetj03]

I bought one new. Recently used it on a 2500 mile round trip over 14 days. The unit sits easily in the floor of the jeep. The claw foot fits easy to the brake pedal. Hit the button 3 times and you are good to go. You should install a break away switch. It's included if bought new from RVi . The command center tablet battery life is terrible. You get about 1 hour of unplugged life before it needs plugged in, so find an accessory pork close by and expect to keep it plugged in for long drives. The command center is slow to connect to the hub, so be patient. I need to call them to see if there is any firmware updates, but other than that, I'm pleased with its performance.

 

[Rock Toy]

@bobthetj03, how is the drain on the TJ battery from the RV3? I bought the charging module but am not sure if its necessary.

 

[bobthetj03]

@bobthetj03, how is the drain on the TJ battery from the RV3? I bought the charging module but am not sure if its necessary.

battery drain to the jeep was not noticeable. The first 3 days of our journey we didn't unhook. drove about 1000 miles in that 3 days, and no problem firing up the jeep.

 

[Rock Toy]

battery drain to the jeep was not noticeable. The first 3 days of our journey we didn't unhook. drove about 1000 miles in that 3 days, and no problem firing up the jeep.

Awesome. I'll bring a jump pack and hope for the best then.

 

[bobthetj03]

Awesome. I'll bring a jump pack and hope for the best then.

you can set the braking sensitivity from the command center tablet in the coach. if you want you can set it for panic braking only if you're concerned about draining the jeep battery. Don't be.

 

[LarryTJ]

I used the RVI3 in the most recent trip to Moab and plugged into my cigarette lighter but had a few issues with the RVI randomly braking (x3 times) and after I spoke to RVI tech rep they contributed to the power source (cigarette lighter) and recommended I direct wire to the battery. I purchased the direct wire kit from RVI ($25) and its an easy connection from battery through the fire wall and includes a fuse and the plug at the end just plugs into the RVI brake system.

Curious for those who own and use a RVI do you all direct wire or use cigarette lighter in the TJ for power?

X2 on the command tablet regarding no battery life. I leave mine plugged in 100% now.

 

[ATCKIP]

This kit is plug and play for towed lights. easy install and works great.​

CURT 58902 Custom Towed-Vehicle RV Wiring Harness for Dinghy Towing, Select Jeep Wrangler TJ​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074RNF79R/?tag=wranglerorg-20

 

[bobthetj03]

I used the RVI3 in the most recent trip to Moab and plugged into my cigarette lighter but had a few issues with the RVI randomly braking (x3 times) and after I spoke to RVI tech rep they contributed to the power source (cigarette lighter) and recommended I direct wire to the battery. I purchased the direct wire kit from RVI ($25) and its an easy connection from battery through the fire wall and includes a fuse and the plug at the end just plugs into the RVI brake system.

Curious for those who own and use a RVI do you all direct wire or use cigarette lighter in the TJ for power?

X2 on the command tablet regarding no battery life. I leave mine plugged in 100% now.

I plugged mine in to the cigarette lighter port, but mine 12 volt hot and not wired to the ignition.

 

[Steel City 06]

Got my Brake Buddy Stealth installed and went for a test drive.

I wired up all of the lights such that the front turn signals, front running lamps, rear turn signals, rear center high mount stop light, rear brake lights, and rear running lights all function. The reverse lights are also hooked up, mainly as an idiot warning system if someone tries to back it up.

Charge and ground circuits are also hooked up. Brake buddy stealth is hooked up to power, ground, brake controller signal, and breakaway signal.

I upgraded the vacuum pump to a Hella UP30 taken out of a modern Silverado. I have it hooked up to a relay and a vacuum switch. It recovers the vacuum to 24 inHg in about 5 seconds, whereas the original one could only supply maybe 15 inHg and took a very long time to get there.

At the same time I also installed a 7-way RV socket with a 4-flat socket as well. The way this jeep is wired, everything should work both as toad and towing. Technically it is even triple tow capable, as all of the toad wiring is installed upstream of the trailer wiring, with the exclusion of the trailer charge circuit, which is isolated by relay. (The toad charge circuit is protected by a 30 amp fuse.)

For anyone that wants to have the front turn signals, all running lamps, and the CHMSL work as well as the rear lights, simply use a Curt 56196 to split the wires for the signals and brake lights. The split signals can then be spliced into the front turn signal and CHMSL wires. No diodes are needed; backfeeding is a non-issue. With the running lights, simply splice anywhere. Backfeeding is a non-issue on those circuits only.

For the taillights, diodes are required. Since I tapped into Reverse the same way I tapped into the turn/brake lights with diodes, I used a diode on the reverse lights as well; though it's probably not necessary.

For safety chains I am using 5/16" Grade 70 with latch hook clevis ends. The chain has a WLL of 4,700 lbs, meaning it far exceeds the requirements of SAE J684. I upsized to a 3/8" clevis latch hook for the end that connects to the bow shackles, as the 5/16" clevis hook could not fit over the 3/4" bow shackles.