Dozerdude
Member
- Joined
- Aug 13, 2016
- Messages
- 88
Kellsport products sell a nice gun for fluid film. 60 psi no mess, no drips
At this point in the game I do not have access to any special tools; I will need to use something that does not require anything, lol.
And where exactly would I drill the drain holes in the frame? Is this something that would be good to do with a recently purchased 2002 or is it too little, too late?
No special tools needed for either. I just used the optional extension for the fluid film.
Fluid Film Spray can Extension Wand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CLUGXFI/?tag=wranglerorg-20
I drilled mine right in from of the rear lower control arm mount. I think too little too late depends on the current condition of the frame. If it's a rusty pile of crap, I wouldn't suggest drilling holes in already jacked up metal. =)
Reviving an old thread as I have a couple of questions.
It seems like Fluid Film is a temporary solution when used externally. Should the same be expected if used internally (inside the frame) and if so, how long would you expect to get out of it? It obviously seems to be much less expensive than Eastwood, which is quite pricey.
I’ve seen others mention using waste oil internally. Can anyone recommend this?
You would be correct!Not to hijack the thread revival...but for those that use fluid film, how is it about dust and dirt sticking to it? I kindof imagine a tacky coating on my entire undercarriage the exact color of Colorado dust.
Reviving an old thread as I have a couple of questions.
It seems like Fluid Film is a temporary solution when used externally. Should the same be expected if used internally (inside the frame) and if so, how long would you expect to get out of it? It obviously seems to be much less expensive than Eastwood, which is quite pricey.
I’ve seen others mention using waste oil internally. Can anyone recommend this?
I stayed away from Eastwood because once it's in there it's not coming out.Just bumping this question, because it's the same one I had while reading this thread. Sounds to me like Fluid Film stays a bit 'wet'/sticky, which might have the consequence of attracting/holding dirt, and also requiring semi-annual reapplications? I live in SC, so I'm hoping that by using Eastwood products I might not have to turn this into an annual job.
Am I wrong about Fluid Film, or is it fair to say that it's a more temporary (good in that it's easily-removed, bad in that it requires reapplication) than the Eastwood products?
inside the frame:Just bumping this question, because it's the same one I had while reading this thread. Sounds to me like Fluid Film stays a bit 'wet'/sticky, which might have the consequence of attracting/holding dirt, and also requiring semi-annual reapplications? I live in SC, so I'm hoping that by using Eastwood products I might not have to turn this into an annual job.
Am I wrong about Fluid Film, or is it fair to say that it's a more temporary (good in that it's easily-removed, bad in that it requires reapplication) than the Eastwood products?
Why not use Eastwood if the frame is rusty inside? Isn’t that what it is designed for? The zinc phosphate is a rust converter isn’t it? I have yet to us the Eastwood internal frame coating, but I am intending to. My thoughts were to use it, then apply fluid film over it once it’s fully cured.inside the frame:
if the frame is clean, no rust inside, eastwoods is the way to go.
if rust has gotten a hold, it's best to smother it with something that can't lock moisture in, like FF or similar product.
outside is usually FF or similar. don't coat it with crap that can seal in moisture like undercoatings and bed liner spray unless it's pristine and your dead sure it's 100% dry in every nook and cranny..
you ever pull your rear flares, there's a hole in the sidewall that'll let you shoot into the cavity behind the roll bar and above the torque box. it's the inside of that hump behind the seat belt gearbox.The Eastwood coating is good for clean rust free places. Maybe s. Cal is a good environment for it. There have been all sorts of zinc coatings through the years. Haven't you ever seen those hot dipped zinc garbage cans? They are as heavy a coating as you could get, yet they always rot out on the bottom. Every one I've ever used or seen. 1 scratch in the coating and moisture gets to the base metal.
A better solution (to me) would be to either use a Cosmoline product that will dry to just a waxy surface, yet will still creep if it gets compromised, or the Fluid Film that will stay moist from the lanolin and will hold some sand and grit, but off the metal surface, and need occasional recoating. That's not such a bad thing though. It means you get under your Jeep a couple times a year (minimum) to check everything out. Plus it wicks like crazy getting into tight seams and creases to displace any moisture. This is especially ideal for the bottom inside your door seams and torque tubes. The frame is tricky in some places too. Use the wand that can stretch directly to the can and spray in a 360*
Inside these areas.
Note to self: Do not spray down suspension components until after you finish working on them.
Messy.