For those with a Genright roll cage

Lou

Lou

Don’t drink the koolaid
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Looking for input from those with a genright rollcage or those who have installed a genright rollcage. Specifically top options, I am not looking for opinions on a full soft top but instead safari top style options. Also, not interested in web shades.

I have a bestop safari top now but the top wraps around the crossbar connecting both B pillars. The flap for this center strap is wide and would not work with the genright cage without modification.

Does anyone have a safari style top installed on said cage?
 
Lou said:
Looking for input from those with a genright rollcage or those who have installed a genright rollcage. Specifically top options, I am not looking for opinions on a full soft top but instead safari top style options. Also, not interested in web shades.

I have a bestop safari top now but the top wraps around the crossbar connecting both B pillars. The flap for this center strap is wide and would not work with the genright cage without modification.

Does anyone have a safari style top installed on said cage?
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Genright doesn't make a roll cage.
 
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mrblaine said:
Genright doesn't make a roll cage.
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Out of curiosity, are there any "sport cage" (prefab weld-in or even bolt-in) kits available that you would trust more than just a stock bar? Or are they all inferior to the stock bar for an average user who uses a TJ both on and off road?

Obviously a true roll cage is preferable by far, but often infeasible for people looking to keep factory belts, top compatibility, doors, access, etc.
 
Steel City 06 said:
Out of curiosity, are there any "sport cage" (prefab weld-in or even bolt-in) kits available that you would trust more than just a stock bar? Or are they all inferior to the stock bar for an average user who uses a TJ both on and off road?

Obviously a true roll cage is preferable by far, but often infeasible for people looking to keep factory belts, top compatibility, doors, access, etc.
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I don't know that it matters really. Aftermarket bent tubular crap that folks buy and put in their rigs confuses the crap out of me.
The factory B pillar hoop is 2.5" x .120 wall minimum. That makes it stronger than anything the aftermarket uses.

If folks wanted to do something intelligent, they would find a way to put behind the dash down legs at a minimum and build from there. Bent up angle down legs are the stupidest crap ever as a purported "safety improvement".
 
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Fouledplugs said:
Are you conveying that any bend in the “a” pillar bars should be avoided?
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i believe the reference is to stanchions. nothin that screws onto trim tabs should be considered safety equipment.

you gotta be willing to do some vent routing work to drop tubes through the dash. thats what occupied that space on my 04.

the big stock tubes look like thin beer cans but they aren't. not to sure i would do what i did again. the factory bars would support additional bracing if 1 desired.
 
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someguysjeep said:
i believe the reference is to stanchions. nothin that screws onto trim tabs should be considered safety equipment.
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If you take a piece of 3" leg x 3/16" thick angle iron that is 24" long and then cut out a section that is 12" long x 1.5" on one leg and 1.25 on the other leg, how much strength is left? If you dropped 4000 lbs. from a height of 4 feet onto a crossbar connecting those two verticals, would you lay under it? I sure as hell wouldn't.
someguysjeep said:
you gotta be willing to do some vent routing work to drop tubes through the dash. thats what occupied that space on my 04.
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I've done several of the Poly cages that went through the dash. The rerouting work was nothing more than hooking the vent back up.
someguysjeep said:
the big stock tubes look like thin beer cans but they aren't. not to sure i would do what i did again. the factory bars would support additional bracing if 1 desired.
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Anytime we want to increase the strength of a tube, we add wall thickness or increase diameter. The stock B pillar hoop does both pretty well. 2.5" x .120 wall minimum which is a stronger tube than any aftermarket commonly sold cage has in it.
 
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mrblaine said:
I've done several of the Poly cages that went through the dash. The rerouting work was nothing more than hooking the vent back up.
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any pics by chance? those hard plastic forms took up a lot of space, and i'm almost rubbin the forward body seam with the A pillars.
mrblaine said:
If you take a piece of 3" leg x 3/16" thick angle iron that is 24" long and then cut out a section that is 12" long x 1.5" on one leg and 1.25 on the other leg, how much strength is left? If you dropped 4000 lbs. from a height of 4 feet onto a crossbar connecting those two verticals, would you lay under it? I sure as hell wouldn't.
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the whole things kinda cheezy from weak attachment and design contouring to the overhung dash platform for upper bar support.
 
someguysjeep said:
any pics by chance? those hard plastic forms took up a lot of space, and i'm almost rubbin the forward body seam with the A pillars.


the whole things kinda cheezy from weak attachment and design contouring to the overhung dash platform for upper bar support.
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Not with the dash out but the pic should give you an idea of how far we pushed the tubes forward and over. They are right against the inside corner of the sheet metal.
1640360624341.png
 
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Here’s a couple of pics from when I did a Poly cage in my old Unlimited. The dash bars are way, way easier than it looks in the pics. The only trimming was the dash pad corners and minor cutting of the metal dash support, I don’t recall doing any modifications to the vents at all.

CDDC4478-98F8-455C-91A7-84DCA939A983.jpeg


F6D13E62-2AFE-4014-AD79-B5EBCC24610D.jpeg


EE23F28D-0A47-48CC-A384-A33C9AD3CB05.jpeg


C7044690-F481-49D6-AA9E-AAEDF9622984.jpeg
 
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Fouledplugs said:
Who said you had to have a dash?

I guess I’m confused on what the O.D of the B pillar hoop is, thought it was 2.25.
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Could be, haven't measured one in a while. You did get the point though, right? Are there any 2.25" x .120 wall commonly sold cage parts for the TJ platform out there?
 
There are definitely some kits that make me wonder if it actually makes things less safe, at least in isolation.

I've thought for quite a while about these:
https://shop.poisonspyder.com/TJ-Heavy-Duty-Header-Bar-Kit-p/14-18-030.htm
Simple, very easy to install, and no radical departure from the factory cage design.

Any significant rollover shows that the factory header bars have yielded, resulting in a collapse of the windshield. So presumably, stronger bars would eliminate that failure.

But perhaps that "failure" is why the rest of the cage survives. If those header bars don't buckle, all of that energy is absorbed elsewhere. Perhaps in the main hoop itself. And I could imagine having the whole hoop shear off is far more disastrous for the passengers than having a folded windshield.
 
Steel City 06 said:
There are definitely some kits that make me wonder if it actually makes things less safe, at least in isolation.

I've thought for quite a while about these:
https://shop.poisonspyder.com/TJ-Heavy-Duty-Header-Bar-Kit-p/14-18-030.htm
Simple, very easy to install, and no radical departure from the factory cage design.

Any significant rollover shows that the factory header bars have yielded, resulting in a collapse of the windshield. So presumably, stronger bars would eliminate that failure.

But perhaps that "failure" is why the rest of the cage survives. If those header bars don't buckle, all of that energy is absorbed elsewhere. Perhaps in the main hoop itself. And I could imagine having the whole hoop shear off is far more disastrous for the passengers than having a folded windshield.
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I like the use of the terms trail cage and full cage. Also why I tell lots of folks to make sure they keep a good polish on their crystal ball so they know exactly how they are going to roll it so the crap they add works in that type of accident.
 
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