Frame side front track bar - is there a sleeve?

ChadH

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I am working on returning my TJ to mostly stock ride height - maybe a 2" lift at the most, preferably stock springs with maybe a 3/4" spacer. This is my daily, and the forest service roads here in no way require the current 4" rock jock I have - I will not be rock crawling in my future and it is too difficult for my back and hips to get into it as it currently sits.

When installing the currie front track bar I recall having to drill out the frame side mount for it to be compatible with the greasable bolt. I would prefer to see if there is a way to return to a stock, or like stock, track bar - but I dont know if there exists any sleeve that can essentially turn that bored out hole back to a smaller and tapered size.

Another option is to retain the currie track bar and do a rebuild on it (probably easiest option) however I am not sure if it can compress enough to work with a stock height, or 3/4" over stock height without causing interference issues with other components. I seem to recall being informed of issues with this track bar at any lift height under 2" but I'm not sure if that is accurate.

It would be great to have input on this as lifts are something I have to farm out - not having a garage or a hard surface conducive to jack stands, and I really don't want to pay a $200/hr shop fee for them to fiddle with it for 2 days before coming up with an answer, so going into it pre-planned if possible would be fantastic. A complicating factor is the only shop within reasonable distance to me seems to have had major turnover and only 2 guys even know what a Johnny Joint is... So they are not a reliable source currently for accurate information.

Any thoughts?
 
I would do a Quick Google search on 'Tie Rod Taper Sleeves' Commonly they are used on Knuckles that have been drilled out for Heims or other joints but I am thinking that it could be an option for your issue. Either way you will likely have to drill out the whole bigger than it already is.

The common thinking around here is that the taper does nothing but keep the tie rod end centered in the hole and that the proper torque applied to the TRE will keep the joint from shifting or causing DW.
 
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I would do a Quick Google search on 'Tie Rod Taper Sleeves' Commonly they are used on Knuckles that have been drilled out for Heims or other joints but I am thinking that it could be an option for your issue. Either way you will likely have to drill out the whole bigger than it already is.

The common thinking around here is that the taper does nothing but keep the tie rod end centered in the hole and that the proper torque applied to the TRE will keep the joint from shifting or causing DW.
Good idea! Thats kinda was I was looking for. Another option is this. It requires drilling another hole of course.... But I dont see why it wouldn't work, and would be adjustable still. I did call rock jock and they claim 2" it the lowest amount of lift their track bar will work with. I could try and cut the tube shorter by maybe a half inch but theres no guarantee. The bigger concern would be weather or not there is enough thread internal to the tube. But rock jock did say they have interference issues with the diff below 2" also.. So this might be the best option https://www.quadratec.com/p/rough-country/front-forged-adjustable-track-bar-wrangler-tj unless going with a custom unit

First, I'm assuming when you get that RockJock 4" lift off, I'd sell that stuff, even used it's gonna pay for what you put on.
Oh no doubt. I am considering just rebuild the joints and seeing how they feel at a lower height with stock springs and maybe a 3/4" spacer. But, trying to find a competent place in my area could be challenging. At the very least springs will be up for grabs.
 
I would avoid that one, as it changed the steering geometry and the parallelism of the Drag link and the Trac Bar. Looks to me like you would experience some bump steer due to that. I Cannot recall the discourse on the Tera-Flex bar found here, But from first appearances that would be a good fit for a semi-stock lift as it retains the Ball joint end and still provides adjustability.

Worth a look I'd say.
 
I would avoid that one, as it changed the geometry. I Cannot recall the discourse on the Tera-Flex bar found here, But from first appearances that would be a good fit for a semi-stock lift as it retains the Ball joint end and still provides adjustability.

Worth a look I'd say.

I was thinking that only if I can't find a sleeve or if having bored out the frame side mount would be problematic for a more stock style track bar. That teraflex one does require a minimum of 2" of lift too though. If I can't get any lower than that then I probably would be better off keeping the rock jock stuff and doing a rebuild.
 
I was thinking that only if I can't find a sleeve or if having bored out the frame side mount would be problematic for a more stock style track bar. That teraflex one does require a minimum of 2" of lift too though. If I can't get any lower than that then I probably would be better off keeping the rock jock stuff and doing a rebuild.

IIRC, there are adjustable TBs that go down to 0" lift, and have a non-tapered (non-oem) mount.
Sell the Currie.

Maybe Rough Country?
 
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IIRC, there are adjustable TBs that go down to 0" lift, and have a non-tapered (non-oem) mount.
Sell the Currie.

Maybe Rough Country?

The RC track bar I put a link to above I am confident would work. https://www.quadratec.com/p/rough-c...table-track-bar-wrangler-tj/0-3.5in-lift-1044 Its good for 0-3.5" they say. It does require drilling yet another hole, but interestingly it positions the frame side bushing so it rotates rather than twists which likely would prolong the bushing life quite a lot. I will probably end up going this route unless I come across something better.