Front Bump Stop Extensions and Rancho RS5000X Shocks

@JeepFan1998 just looking at the fronts, without a bump stop extension, the shocks will take the impact when they bottom out. This can cause damage to the shock piston or valving.

Bump stop extensions are used to prevent whichever of the following comes first
1. Shock bottoming out
2. Tire hitting the fenderwell

The shocks you have selected ( based on my measurements) will bottom out about an inch before the bump stop hits the spring perch. So although you would need to cycle the suspension to make sure the tire isn't going to hit, you are already looking at needing bumpstop extensions.

The reason to cycle is to make sure you don't put too long of an extension in that will limit your max possible up travel. You are already gaining more up travel than stock so loosing some of that to prevent other damage should hopefully keep you equal to or slightly better than stock.

For the front, general consensus is to apply the extension to the spring perch because of potential interference w the spring. On the rear, you can put them above the jounce cup

Is there a reason that you don't want to put in extensions? Is it drilling and tapping the spring perch or cost? If cost, I've got a guy making some for me out of UHMW-PE at a very reasonable cost. He is getting ready to offer them for sale. PM me if you want his contact info once you know the lengths you need.
Thanks for the quick reply. No worries about expense or drilling. Seems pretty simple once the springs are removed.

I guess my brain is having a hard time processing how I would gain extra up travel with the taller springs and longer shocks if it’s being offset by adding extenders or should I not be looking to gain 2” of travel.

Should I only expect with a 2” lift and 1”-1.5” bump stop extension might only net 0.5”-1.0” additional travel???

I understand the only way to know for sure would be to cycle the suspension and make the proper adjustment. Was hoping to maybe SWAG this a little, but sounds like it’s not that simple.
 
Given the math, any up travel gains are nominal at best with the combo you have selected. .5 to 1.0 on the front seems right with 1.5 inch extensions - assuming cycling says the shock is the limiting factor and not the tire.

That being said, down travel is equally important to up travel. The goal of the longer shocks is to preserve as much down travel as possible. In your case, the shock will be at a curb height length of about about 19.5 inches. Since the fully extended length is 23.84 inches, you will still have just over 4 inches of down travel. Seems like a great balance.
 
Given the math, any up travel gains are nominal at best with the combo you have selected. .5 to 1.0 on the front seems right with 1.5 inch extensions - assuming cycling says the shock is the limiting factor and not the tire.

That being said, down travel is equally important to up travel. The goal of the longer shocks is to preserve as much down travel as possible. In your case, the shock will be at a curb height length of about about 19.5 inches. Since the fully extended length is 23.84 inches, you will still have just over 4 inches of down travel. Seems like a great balance.
Makes good sense, thanks. Looks like it’s time to start tearing everything down, cycle the suspension and do the math. Better to do it right the first time 😃
 
....

That being said, down travel is equally important to up travel. The goal of the longer shocks is to preserve as much down travel as possible. ...

While both are important, I consider up travel to be the one to focus on because it is the travel that is the most useful in all situations and it is the one that most people seem to lose sight of and sacrifice. If you can fit the longest travel shock that divides it's travel in half, you should be in good shape.

On mine with relocated shock mounts, a 4" spring lift, and most pieces fitted together pretty well to support 11"/12" travel shocks, I have no more than 2.5-3" of additional up over stock.
 
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I needed 2" of bump stop extension to run RS55239's up front. That gave me roughly 0.50" of shock shaft showing at full bump without the jounces installed.
 
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I needed 2" of bump stop extension to run RS55239's up front. That gave me roughly 0.50" of shock shaft showing at full bump without the jounces installed.
What spring lift height are you running? You mention without jounces, did you remove them permanently or just while cycling the suspension to determine how much bump stop to add?
 
What spring lift height are you running? You mention without jounces, did you remove them permanently or just while cycling the suspension to determine how much bump stop to add?

2" springs with 1" spacers, so 3" total lift. I removed the jounces just for suspension cycling reasons to determine bump stop extension needed. The jounces will just about fully compress at a hard full bump, so I take them out of the equation.
 
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2" springs with 1" spacers, so 3" total lift. I removed the jounces just for suspension cycling reasons to determine bump stop extension needed. The jounces will just about fully compress at a hard full bump, so I take them out of the equation.
Good to know... I hadn’t thought to check clearance without the jounces.
Thanks
 
Good to know... I hadn’t thought to check clearance without the jounces.
Thanks
Disconnect the sway bars as well. The goal is replicate any and all movement that might occur while the vehicle is experiencing dynamic loads.
 
This is a fork lift flex, so you can imagine how squished that jounce can get under real world flexing.
DSCN0936.webp
 
Disconnect the sway bars as well. The goal is replicate any and all movement that might occur while the vehicle is experiencing dynamic loads.
Touché... I’m installing sway bar disconnects as well so will definitely cycle without links affixed. Thanks
 
I needed 2" of bump stop extension to run RS55239's up front. That gave me roughly 0.50" of shock shaft showing at full bump without the jounces installed.

I am glad I am not the only one, these are sold as being 14.43” long compressed. Stock replacements are around 13 - 13.125. I figured 1.5” bumpstops would be PERFECT, and perhaps shave a few then this off. However I was mistaken and apparently they’re longer than the 14.43” and I needed 2”. I have 2.25”for a little margin. With the OME front springs I still have about 4” of up travel...

Thinking of upgrading to Bilstein 5160, they’re super short compressed and offer over 10” of travel ... so from the Rancho 239 I’d gain almost an inch up travel and a couple more down.
 
The front bump stop extension should be added to the axle side. The rear can be added to the frame side by extending the cup.

Hey, which is the reason for that? Can you please help me understand?
 
Hey, which is the reason for that? Can you please help me understand?
Extending the front upper can eventually lead to the cup plucking the springs as the axle moves. It's annoying! :)
 
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