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Front Suspension Cycling Results


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Impact LJ

Impact LJ

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Total. I had a 3" diameter nylon body lift puck that I cut down to about 1.5" and bolted down to the axle pad. It matched my first set of front shocks. Then when I changed to slightly longer shocks, I raised to upper shock mount rather than add more bump. The most mine would ever have is about 3".
I just removed the flares to make sure I'm not missing anything. Will cycle again tomorrow when I'm off work. Stumped.
 

bobthetj03

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I agree with Josh. That's a ton of bump stop extension for 33's. I have 1.75" in front and 2" rear, but I'm running 1050 width 33's with Rubi flares, so maybe that contributes.
20200307_132541.jpg
 

Brianj5600

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I have the same RS55255 shocks, stock fenders and 35s on 15x8 3.75bs wheels with 3" bump stops. It leaves about 3/4" shaft showing at full bump. I did have to trim the brace by the blinker to keep the tire from catching the brace. It tucks a 35 fine.

20181103_142649~2.jpg


I have a body lift now and plan to move the mount and remove a hockey puck down to 2" bump.
 
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freedom_in_4low

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I have the same RS55255 shocks, stock fenders and 35s on 15x8 3.75bs wheels with 3" bump stops. It leaves about 3/4" shaft showing at full bump. I did have to trim the brace by the blinker to keep the tire from catching the brace. It tucks a 35 fine.

View attachment 217737

I have a body lift now and plan to move the mount and remove a hockey puck down to 2" bump.

I'm bumped at 3" with RS55255 and the shock is the first thing to bottom out by inches (only running 32s currently). Have you done anything with your shock mounts to get another inch of uptravel?
 
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Impact LJ

Impact LJ

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What interference did you extend to bumps for?
It's set to stop after a half an inch or so of starting to rub on the flair. Any more and I fear it's going to cause damage when turning, we'll see how much space I have to actual fender tomorrow. The issue is that they don't tuck under nicely with the edge of the tire coming right into contact with the edge of the flair. Could use slightly more backspacing.
 

jjvw

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It's set to stop after a half an inch or so of starting to rub on the flair. Any more and I fear it's going to cause damage when turning, we'll see how much space I have to actual fender tomorrow. The issue is that they don't tuck under nicely with the edge of the tire coming right into contact with the edge of the flair. Could use slightly more backspacing.

That's the problem. The flares are fine. Reduce the bump to get to the compressed shock or the outer fender sheet metal. Whichever comes first.
 

Brianj5600

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I'm bumped at 3" with RS55255 and the shock is the first thing to bottom out by inches (only running 32s currently). Have you done anything with your shock mounts to get another inch of uptravel?

What are your measurements for up travel and shock shaft showing?

I just measured mine, cup to top of pucks, 4.75" and 5" of shaft showing.
 
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Impact LJ

Impact LJ

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That's the problem. The flares are fine. Reduce the bump to get to the compressed shock or the outer fender sheet metal. Whichever comes first.
Copy that, will reset with no flairs tomorrow and report back. Thanks for the guidance.
 

freedom_in_4low

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What are your measurements for up travel and shock shaft showing?

I just measured mine, cup to top of pucks, 4.75" and 5" of shaft showing.

5" of shaft showing at ride height and maybe 1/8" of shaft showing with cup touching puck. Haven't measured in between at ride height for the front but math would suggest it's about 4.875". Weird that our measurements are so close with an inch difference in extension.
 

BuildBreakRepeat

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Was able to get it down to 1” driver and 7/8” passenger on top in addition to the 3” on bottom. That leaves about half an inch on either side until contact with the fender at full lock.View attachment 217931View attachment 217932
The flare hole that is right above your tire can be trimmed out on the fender and flare if you want more up - that's what I did. The hole right next to it (the hole closer to the front in your pic) will keep the flare tight. Basically, you can make room under there for the tire to keep going up if you want and not change the look from the outside once you put the flare back on. Did you look at what one tire up and the other side down does? Pics?
 
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Impact LJ

Impact LJ

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The flare hole that is right above your tire can be trimmed out on the fender and flare if you want more up - that's what I did. The hole right next to it (the hole closer to the front in your pic) will keep the flare tight. Basically, you can make room under there for the tire to keep going up if you want and not change the look from the outside once you put the flare back on. Did you look at what one tire up and the other side down does? Pics?
That makes sense for sure. Not sure if I trust myself just yet with body trimming hidden or not to be honest. These two are the only pictures I got and were taken with no tire on the opposite side.


A body lift would go a long way.
Agreed, it and the cable shifter are next on the list. Is a MML necessary with a body lift as well?
 

BuildBreakRepeat

Garrett Hoover
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That makes sense for sure. Not sure if I trust myself just yet with body trimming hidden or not to be honest. These two are the only pictures I got and were taken with no tire on the opposite side.



Agreed, it and the cable shifter are next on the list. Is a MML necessary with a body lift as well?
A MML isn't critical, but it is very helpful and makes life easier. It gives you a better rear driveshaft angle and puts the fan in the right spot from the BL. WIthout the MML you have to modify the fan shroud mounting holes.