Front tow hook recommendation

If you get your fingers around to the inside of the front cross member, you can check the engagement of the front bolt. I checked mine and found that the bolt seemed to be fully engaged. At least, the length of bolt that was sticking out seemed to be the same length as the taper on the end.

If you did get new bolts, they could probably be the same length as the OEM bolts just without the taper. But check the engagement of the front bolt and see how it looks.
Yes, thanks for the explanation. I’ll do this when I get my hook issue resolved.
 
How much higher is the pad above the surface where the hook would sit on the winch plate?

You could always use the Curt hook and get some flat stock metal from Lowes, Home Depot, Tractor Supply and many local hardware stores and cut it down and drill matching holes to make a spacer to go between the hook and winch plate. Just get the appropriate length grade 8 bolts to attach it.

They usually have pieces up to 1/4" thick.
The top of the pad is maybe 1/8” higher than the plate. So I have some options like you are describing.
 
It’s very narrow so it fits nicely between the lights and the winch plate. I keep metal shackles attached so that someone can quickly get a hook on them if that’s what they’re using, otherwise I’ll use my soft shackles to attach to a thimble or to a recovery strap.

This is definitely not the cheapest option, hooks are dirt cheap by comparison, but it’s also not outrageously expensive... ymmv

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Thanks for the pictures. If I went this route, I’d probably want to remove my bumper pads. Which is also an option.
 
It’s very narrow so it fits nicely between the lights and the winch plate. I keep metal shackles attached so that someone can quickly get a hook on them if that’s what they’re using, otherwise I’ll use my soft shackles to attach to a thimble or to a recovery strap.

This is definitely not the cheapest option, hooks are dirt cheap by comparison, but it’s also not outrageously expensive... ymmv

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That's a lot of leverage extending past the nearest bolt. Seems like a hook is preferable.
 
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That's a lot of leverage extending past the nearest bolt. Seems like a hook is preferable.

I don’t know about that, and I won’t pretend to have any failure analysis calculations, but it would take a pretty outrageous 90 degree side pull to even begin to stress a 1.25” chunk of billet aluminum. I have the option of tapping the front bumper and adding a third bolt closer to the shackle but you’ll notice that, if I somehow managed to break that piece of billet aluminum, I actually have a secondary mounting option for a shackle on the front bumper (normally used for the tow bar).

The other issue I had with a hook was that in a side pull situation, the recovery strap wouldn’t clear the fog lights. I’m pretty comfortable with this MetalCloak solution and I really prefer connections with shackles instead of hooks, especially if I was ever in a situation where the pull would need to come from an elevated location. Think about getting stuck in some sort of hole and having to use a snatch block from an anchor point higher than your Jeep, where the winch line comes back down to essentially lift your front end upwards; would you prefer an open hook (pulling up on the tip of the hook) or a closed shackle? Or look at this video, where the truck that’s stuck is pointed down and the recovery strap is really pulling up on the tow hooks:

 
Tow hooks are for straight line pulls, not side pulls. Great for a quick recovery with a strap. Not so great for winch work.

Mounts/tabs for 3/4" bow shackles or soft shackles allow pulls from multiple directions and angles.

I have both shackle tabs and hooks on my Rockhard 4x4 front bumper:

After first day in the dirt.jpg
 
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PO had a front end wreck somewhere along the way. I never bothered to replace the fairlead. I probably will when I replace the cable.
 
I got the hooks @Jerry Bransford mentioned. Other options would have worked, but this was the fastest, least amount of work, and cost effective solution.

I re-used my factory mount bolts. They looked long enough to be fully engaged in the nut on the bottom (see picture), so I think I'm all good.

Overall, I think it looks fine.

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Why the washers under the hooks?
Do they sell just the springy piece that holds the chain/strap from coming off?
 
You could just use the existing hooks and drill a new hole for the light tabs about 1/2" further out.
 
Nice! those look really clean!



To clear the bumper guards, because they sit just a little higher than the bumper.
Yes, @fuse is right. I could have probably squished the hooks on the top of the pads. But with the washers I didn’t have to.
 
Stop making sense.

🤪

True, I could have moved them out. Probably would have had to do a few inches though so that the hooks had enough gap from the fog lights. However, the wiring is pretty short since I did the body lift. Moving it too much might have meant having to rewire them. So I took an easier route. I may revisit it in the future if I’m not happy with it. Only $20 total for what I did.
 
I got the hooks @Jerry Bransford mentioned. Other options would have worked, but this was the fastest, least amount of work, and cost effective solution.

I re-used my factory mount bolts. They looked long enough to be fully engaged in the nut on the bottom (see picture), so I think I'm all good.

Overall, I think it looks fine.
Looks great! Did the hooks have the little safety clip? If it did I'd throw them on. No good reason I just find them useful. The one weakness of the factory hooks is they don't have that little tab to keep your rope in place. If there's a reason not to have them I understand, I'm no expert.
 
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Looks great! Did the hooks have the little safety clip? If it did I'd throw them on. No good reason I just find them useful. The one weakness of the factory hooks is they don't have that little tab to keep your rope in place. If there's a reason not to have them I understand, I'm no expert.
They did come with the safety clip. I may opt to put them on. Stay tuned.
 
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Based on some feedback, I tried 2 things.

I tried putting the hooks on without the washers. It wouldn’t fit. The bumper pad wouldn’t compress enough to allow the hook to make a solid connection to the winch plate. I could possibly adjust the pads down a bit, bit that would require taking off the bumper and enlarging the holes. Possible if I get some time.

I also took a look at the retaining clips. They seemed ok, but a little flimsy. Not sure how they would hold up. Also, since I didn’t take the washers out, that would further shorten that bolt connection. All solvable, but for today, I’ll stop.